This is a case of flagrantly crossing over what is allowed here, but here's my story. I've been collecting parts for my '34 Austin Ruby and lowering the front suspension has been a problem. While it does have a beam axle with a transverse leaf spring, somewhat similar to an early Ford; it doesn't lend itself to be easily dropped. My hopes were raised a bit by Accurate Mike who managed to get an Anglia axle dropped by Nostalgia Sid. Unfortunately it turned out to be too wide. Next, A60's racer was selling a midget front axle in the classifieds but I was too slow to respond. I snooze; I lose. My solution to this was to purchase a IFS go kart suspension unit from my cousins in China. Dirt cheap except for the shipping and it looks pretty good. My question is: In the picture, the ball joint is threaded into the upper control arm. Would there be enough adjustment there to do camber and caster or would I have to make adjustment devices at the two inner pivots?
I think that adjustment is for camber only. To adjust camber you would need to make the control arm mounts adjustable.
From what we can see of that kit, there is no caster adjustment. Maybe it's in the top pivot of the crossmember?
Yeah the upper arm is usually were adjustments are made. Either the upper arm has cross shaft that either slides in or out using bolts thru cross shaft and slots on frame or bolts thru frame going thru cross shaft with shims between frame and cross shaft. I would not recommend this job for a first time do it yourselfer. There are alot of angles and readings to get right before welding. Once you weld its stuck there. I see 8 out of 10 of these jobs done wrong. People complain because the car drives terrible because of neg camber and caster readings but their only recourse is to cut it apart and start from scratch...
Thanks guys. I thought that it would be a camber only sort of thing but I didn't want to make more work for myself if I could avoid it. Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Without some very explicit instructions on exactly how to set that up to get the right caster or some serious knowledge on setting that style of front end up you are going to have a very serious challenge getting it right. I'd have to think that the people who use that setup to build what it is designed for have a pretty well designed chassis jig to set it up with.
Bummer. Had a good Austin A8 front axle I tossed in the scrap metal run since nobody wanted it. But it was parallel leaf spring setup.
Firstly, Do not use the Chinese knuckle/spindle. They will bend or break with an ATV. Hunt down a pair of Triumph Herald/Spitfire knuckles. They were the choice of early Formula Ford constructors [McLaren used them on the M1 CanAm racer] Here is an example on an early 60's Formula 3 Note the stub axle can be removed from the forging [making it easier for custom applications] That Heim joint only adjusts camber [bent stub axle correction] To alter caster you need to adjust the balljoints longitudinal. Lola did a Cheat/Simple method with stack-able washers on the upper A-Arm brackets. If you are using this for competition , the IFS wins hands down. But the simplest easiest way to lower your car .....is to machine up some kingpin bosses and make a custom drop tube axle in a jig. [A frame 3 link it ,if you want good handling]
Thank you Mimilan. Always impressed by your advice. Those Spitfire spindles look good but unfortunately, a bit scarce I think. While I admit the spindles are a bit "spindly", I will try to use them since this will be a very light weight car and I don't plan on doing any ATV type hijinks with it. My main concern with this stuff would be the small 5" disc brakes but since the original car didn't have front brakes, it has to be an improvement. With the narrowed 9" rear end having 11" drums, there will be a bit of imbalance here. The front end comes with brake calipers, braided stainless lines and a master cylinder so I plan on adding another master cylinder for the rear brakes with a balance bar. Any thoughts on my madness?
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