The factory shop manual for my Lincoln says... Tighten while rotating the drum back and forth until there is a noticeable drag or bind. Then back nut off to line up with the nearest slot with the hole in the spindle which will allow the drum to rotate freely with no perceptible end play. (about 1/6 to 1/4 turn) Think I'm good to go with this method or have you guys figured out anything better since 1953?
I've done it by feel for so many years it's hard to describe but here's a try. I thighten it by hand to about 10 to 15 foot pounds while turning the spindle then back off to the next slot on the nut. Been doing it that way for about 40 years without a bearing failure.
I was reading in a factory service manual for my 50 chevy that the ball bearings need to be tightened to 33 foot pounds then backed off to the next slot. Sound kinda tight to me but I did them that way anyway and they didnt fall off.
depends, freshly packed bearings i tighten up a little harder then back them off. if the wheel bearings are just being checked and have run i don't tighten it that much and do it with the wheel on so i can double check for play.
On tappered bearings :I put the wheel on and tighten the nut down till the wheel doesnt turn easily (to seat the bearings in the races well ).I then back it of till it spins freely and then slowly tighten it till i can feel a slight drag .The back the nut off till the next hole lines up and install the cotter pin. On ball type bearings:I put the wheel back on and tighten the nut till the wheel doesnt turn easily (to seat the bearings in the races well ).I then back it off till it spins freely and then tighten the nut by hand while i try and move the tire up and down till the movement is out .Once it feels snug i back it off to the next hole and drop the cotter pin in .There should be no preload on ball bearings or they are screwed . Every one does it differently ,but i have packed bearings on over 100 cars ,trucks ,trailers, (both ball and roller) in my life and never lost one yet ...