The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by rockable, Sep 17, 2021.
I painted an entire deuce full fendered pu with satin Krylon. Turned out great and even got a feature in the Oct. 05 issue of Rod & Custom. I'm starting another 32 roadster and am planning on painting it with Krylon.
Plasti-kote for doing engines, but it doesn't seem to be around any more. A machine shop guy told me his hot tank would take OEM paint off in one session, but mine usually took at least 2 dunkings.
For general around the house/garage stuff I use whatever I find in the right color. Anything going on my truck, I Have my local paint supplier mix/match and put in spray cans. Costs a little more than Krylon, etc, but it's automotive paint, and it matches!
You are right de1635 is great for engine brackets. Sem self etching primer in black is very good and durable but kinda pricey.
I’m a Krylon guy. For some reason I haven’t seen it locally for years.
I tried a few cans of a water based paint when I did some wheels a few years ago, epic fail on my part.
I like VHT brand. I use a preval sprayer mostly,and mix hardener/reducer. I can then shoot real paint. In primers I use a product called Rust Destroyer.Comes in a white/blue/ green can with a army tank on it.Not cheap,but it seals well,and rust doesnt return.
I also like Seymour, particularly their Stainless pigment paint. I used it on most of my accessories,
steering, tie rods, shocks, inset on my backing plates, brackets, and rear end. Although I clear coated my rear end for added durability.
I like and use Rustoleum spray paint, with great results, when I can get it. Its rumored to be Fish-oil paint. I suppose so...
Warm the can to up the pressure, not to much or you will need lots of lacquer thinner!!!
I was a devoted Krylon rattle can guy for years, bought a lot of Chevy orange engine paint and used their semi flat black paint for frame and bracket painting but they changed the formulation and it didn't seem the same.
I haven't been as active in the shop as I had been but I did find that the Duplicolor self etching primer to be real durable on a roll cage in my Nova, not the cheapest though.
Look great and nice finish, what primer and clear did you sue ?
I used HOK KD3000 primer and PPG clear with a flatten-er.
Cool Thanks, always admired your RPU
For years Krylon was an acrylic lacquer but about 10 years ago, because of VOC laws, reformulated and is now an acrylic enamal.
Duplicolor (small cans) auto spray paint is still an acrylic lacquer and I use it on small hot rod parts and to restore antique toys.
I use Bondo 701 primer, also lacquer based and finish off with Rustoleum Clear lacquer which polishes/buffs out beautifully.
I like Van Sickle get it locally at Orschelin Farm and Home.
Ok. It's apparent to me that everybody likes what they like. Fast drying, while still looking good and leaving a durable finish are my priorities. That is why I am hooked on the Dupli Color engine enamel. To each his own!
Tractor Supply sells some paint that sticks real good to less than perfect prepped things............ Guess they figure the farmers ain't gonna do much prep work before they paint something. They even have a kinda black that like a hot rod black.
Just bought this, mail order. Custom! Premium! 50% More Durable! Dries 2x Faster! Ideal for Cars!
Anything to get the color I want then fire up the gun and top coat w/ catalyzed clear urethane. Buy a gloss kit from my paint supplier which lasts for years. for dead flat clear I use Summit flat. It is truly dead flat and a gallon is relatively cheap compared to today's national debt priced paints. Only takes a few minutes and that stuff will survive a direct nuclear hit. I even clear coat my wood carvings and custom made exotic wood walking canes with the clear.
Having worked in the heavy equipment business I found over the years that the OEM branded spray paint is usually very good quality paint, but limited in colors. The IH red or black were great. Komatsu, CAT, etc all have their own branded spray paints that are very good quality, IMO a step up above Rustoleum and other national store brands, if the colors are OK. They also carry the paint in gallon cans, and you can mix colors for more variety, and add hardener to improve durability. John Deere has their implement paint rattle cans that a lot of guys around here have used successfully.
If you're wanting metal flake in a rattle can, Krylon's Shimmer paints are great, the flake is medium to small in size, but not too small, it's not bass boat large, but larger than most OEM metallics, and the flake distributes out heavy, it really does look good. The colors are pretty cool too. Check it out:
For durability, you probably want to cover that with a good clear. Spray Max 2k clear is really nice. The cans have a button on the bottom that you depress to release the hardener into the paint, and you have a limited time to use the paint once the hardener is released. The nozzles are excellent, very wide fan spray pattern. And here's a tip, the nozzles work on the Krylon Shimmer paint cans, so you have much less chance of ending up with those tiger stripe patterns in the finished job.
Rustoleum, with good slow overlaps. Added coats within the hour is important or wait 24 hours to hit it again can be a pain, because it will wrinkle lift if you do it anytime sooner. Their paints have a faster drying time now, so look for their cans that say so. Note: if your painted item still stinks, its not thoroughly dry.
A couple of my go to's JD blitz black is like iron....
The Rustoleum engine paint has excellent coverage, flow, great gloss and the semi-gloss is really nice too.
Painted the Studebaker red and black years ago using Valspar rattle can satin. You could lay it on pretty heavy and it wouldn't run. When I finally did the body work before getting a real paint job, I couldn't get that stuff off. It's still on the car underneath the black paint on it now. Used to get the Valspar at Lowe's. Don't see it anymore.
I like Rustoleum black appliance epoxy for small part, seems pretty tough once dry.
I also use those Preval sprayers for small jobs with regular car paint.
My favorite likely still exists, but I do not know who makes it.
We used to have a local chain of home centers out this way called Orchard Supply Hardware, or OSH for short. They fell to Capitalism.
Anyhow, their store-brand spray paint was drip, sag, and run-free, and indestructible. I know that they did not make it, and it was a re-label from a paint supplier, but I have never been able to figure out which one.
While cleaning out my storage unit, I found an unused can. I cannot bring myself to spray it. It might be the last one in existence.
This stuff was tough enough that I had it on the front bumper and front axle of my 4x4 rig, for over 100,000 miles, and it was only chipped where it made contact with immovable rocks.
On the negative side of things - I just used VHT grey primer over-coated with VHT black (both heat resistant, but not flame-proof paint). They both never fully dried (felt tacky/gummy) and the primer kept bleeding through the black topcoat. Will not buy again
I like Krylon. I think it flows nicely and dries pretty quick.
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