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Technical What's the correct brake bleeding sequence for GM master with bleeders?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by David Gersic, May 7, 2017.

  1. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 2,966

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes. Most/all disc/disc masters have large reservoirs that look about equal in size.
     
  2. David Gersic
    Joined: Feb 15, 2015
    Posts: 2,734

    David Gersic
    Member
    from DeKalb, IL

    And, in the end, the bleed out was fine, the problem was mechanical. Here's the final solution:

    [​IMG]

    GM master cylinders of this vintage have two different pistons. One, for manual brakes, has a deep hole for the pushrod. The other, for power brakes, has just a centering divot in the end. The manual pushrod is about 1 1/4" longer than the power pushrod. Other than the depth of the hole, the M/C is the same.

    A local muscle car parts shop sells one M/C for both applications, and includes this handy slug that fits in the hole. Take it out for manual, install it for power. A friend hooked me up with one.

    Slid the M/C forward, enough for this to clear, got it in place, and put the M/C back. Didn't open the system, so didn't have to bleed it yet again. Now I've got brakes without the excessive pedal travel.

    Lessons learned: check everything, even if the part claims to be the right one. NAPA sells this as being the right M/C for a power brake on a 70 Chevelle, along with a bunch of other cars. Not that it won't work, but you'd need the longer "manual" pushrod to make it work correctly.

    Now I gotta find out how to dispose of 2.5 gallons of brake fluid.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     

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