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What Type of Paint for DIY?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by billandlori, Dec 14, 2012.

  1. Hey folks,

    Well, I'm getting close to shooting the color on my wife's 72 Nova. I have stripped it to bare metal to make sure there were no gremlins lurking under the cheap paint job on it.

    So, starting from bare metal, what are the recomended primers, base, clear (if needed) to use for a home based paint job? With all the different types of laquer, urethane, etc, etc, I would appreciate some guidance!! Going to be going with a gloss red. I managed to steer her away from black as my first try!!

    I live in Canada so the low VOC rules aren't as stiff as CA!!

    Thanks in advance for the help!

  2. Self etching primer and single stage enamel. I like DuPont but that is not what most of the fellas are going to suggest.
  3. The VOC laws are pretty strict in Canada. It is going to depend on how lenient your paint supplier is on what he will sell you.

    You are probably better off going to talk to your local supplier. He can tell you what he will sell you (as far a voc compliant products) and will know compatabilty of products.
  4. Thanks Beaner!!

    I know the paint supplier real good, he had mentioned the enamel too, I just wanted to find out from the folks on here that actually do this stuff!!


  5. The shift to waterbourne paints happened a while ago in B.C.
  6. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 2,247


    Base coat/urethane clear coat are very easy to work with and pretty much fool proof. The biggest issue is the safety equipment needed for urethanes (fresh air supply) versus enamel or laquer.
  7. Kirk Hanning
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,603

    Kirk Hanning

    Another vote for single stage DuPont.
  8. Thanks for the replys!!

  9. 29woodie
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 93

    from boston, ma

    I would go with the single stage enamel. That's what I used on my first paint job. Just get the best quality you can afford. I used Valspar SunCryl for the body and some nameless enamel for the fenders. I used a hardener with each. Both were cheap to buy, the Valspar was just a few dollars more, but was so much easier to work with. It sprayed nicer and was easy to wet sand and buff. The black enamel was a pain to spray and took forever to harden enough to sand & buff. I bought both online and had no trouble shipping to Boston. $.02 from someone who is in no way an authority.
  10. Be careful with enamels in Canada most are industrial products like Duponts Imron and can be deadly to spray without the proper fresh air respirator. They are not legal for use in the automotive trade so most jobbers if they sell one use an industrial based one strickly for their industrial customers.
    Last edited: Dec 14, 2012
  11. hd4unm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 151


    Are hardener additives still in play for the modern single stage products? The drying, gloss retention and durability was really an added benefit. Never went without it years ago on acrylic enamels.

    Red is fun color to spray. Always seemed to flow real nice.
  12. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,289


    Single stage enamel. Follow your paint suppliers recommendation for what is compatible and stay with a particular product line. I used PPG because that's what I have available here. I do't really think it matters which one of the major paint brands you go with for a DIY project. They all carry 2 or 3 levels of "priciness".
    It's all in the prep before the shiny stuff goes on.
    Good luck!
  13. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,289


    Absolutely. Choose a paint with a hardener!
  14. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,497


    and wear some kind of mask. Maaco is NOT a bad choice.
  15. Kirk Hanning
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 1,603

    Kirk Hanning

    I prefer single stage as it looks more old timely not like a shiny plastic clearcoat. Since your a DIY'er like myself it means less coats. That equals less dirt and bugs in each coat and less too fix. Just keep in mind that when color sanding you'll prolly be taking a coat off in the process so don't be afraid too put on the paint. After a good cut 'n buff it'll look like a pro did it.
  16. I wonder if they are north of the border? :D
  17. Oh they are....:rolleyes:
  18. rampant150
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 31


    There is nothing wrong with Maaco. The only problem comes from the fact that they will give you what you want to pay for and most paint and body customers are cheap as hell. It is possible to get a great job out of them, you just have to pay for it just like anywhere else.
  19. auto air colors.

    stuff is foolproof if you just follow the directions.

    its cheap, forgiving, and easy to use.

    i've been using it exclusively for years now and i have never had a single problem with it.
  20. hd4unm
    Joined: Dec 6, 2012
    Posts: 151


    Since this is your first paint job, a few more tips beyond paint choice;
    Make sure you get a good sealer too. It improves adhesion and blocks paint solvents from sinking into the primer. Have you ever seen a finish that has dulled out quickly? Probably no or poor quality sealer used.

    Don't rush your base primer/fill sanding. Depending on the buildup all the filler coats are apt to shrink and expose sand scratches and grind marks. I think we've all seen too many rush jobs where these defects magically appear after color coat is laid down because of rush jobs.
  21. EZ Cool
    Joined: Nov 17, 2011
    Posts: 260

    EZ Cool
    Alliance Vendor

    I used single stage Nason enamel on my company car. It went on good and has a good shine to it. I put a coat of wax on it once in a while.
  22. bp1971
    Joined: Apr 11, 2010
    Posts: 520

    from Fresno, CA
    1. Central California HAMB

    Another vote for single stage enamel. I painted my roadster with PPG delstar acrylic enamel and it came out great
  23. Good points HD, thanks!!

    So goes like this then: etching primer, sealer/primer, high build primer, sand, high build, sand, repeat, repeat, repeat, then paint. Is this correct?

  24. Sealer should go on before your topcoat.
  25. Thank you Sir!!

  26. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,940

    pimpin paint
    from so cal


    Just so we're clear here, there is no such thing as'' Non Toxic '' automotive paint;) Even the '' Tree-Hugger '' ( waterborne ) paint contains chemmies & cancer causing agents:eek: Spend the money you'll save by not paying a pro, on a well fitting resperator with the correct filters! By your mask from an automotive paint store, not some damn hardware store, and ask for help in correct fitting of said mask- wish I'd have listened when they told me '' protect your health "!

    I can't advise about what's sold North of the boarder, paint wise, but I'd suggest you go with a medium priced urethane, a low line single stage in red won't hold up well:eek:

    Good luck, and don't be in a hurry

    " Do not reach greedily for the Kool-Aid "
  27. Good advice right there, thanks!

    I have already got the air filter for my face, money well spent!!

  28. Bryan G
    Joined: Mar 15, 2011
    Posts: 176

    Bryan G
    from Delmarva

    Nason Ful-Thane single stage, it's a DuPont product. We have done tons of all-overs with it, including my 2 personal pickup trucks. Smooth, nice shine, durable, not overpriced.
  29. SinisterCustom
    Joined: Feb 18, 2004
    Posts: 8,268


    Try Kustom Shop paints from TCP Global....
    I've been using there DTM epoxy primers for awhile now...and just recently tried their urethane basecoats....
    Good pricing and sprays nice.....but it is wear good respirator...
    And House of Kolor is real damn easy to use to....

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