so i just picked up a 50 chevy 5 window..it has been sitting for a little while but still runs the previous owner rebuilt the carb, wheel cylinders, swapped everything over to 12 volt....what are the must check items before taking her out..
Depends on how long it has been sitting since the work you mentioned. If longer than a few months, I would drain the tank and the carb as much as possible and check the brakes for leaks, then take a few short trips close to home rechecking the brakes. Also make sure the cooling system is leak free and clean. And take a cell phone!
its been about a year since he did those things so...ill run a good check over things..should i drain the oil and throw in new plugs????
At least take a look at the plugs. Check the lugnuts too. It might seem stupid, but when someone knows they are going to park a car for a while they might not torque them down. Happened to a buddy once, I was shotgunning. 50mph on 3 wheels isn't fun.
i would change oil/filter,check plugs,wires, points?? cap, rotor, belts hoses, and coolant,check suspension for anything loose
If someone else did the wiring check it out ,if its a rats nest trace your circuts ,and if it has a amp gauge check those wires for fraid ends and check wires for grouments going threw fire wall .I almost lost my 40 chev because of someone's wiring on my first run. Oh ya take a fire ext. I didn't .
Had a 50 pickup hood latch come loose on its maiden voyage years ago. Now that'll screw up your day real fast. Make sure the safety latch works. Take small trips at first with each trip increase your distance. Yes, above all check your brake lines, master cylinder and wheel cylinders for leaks before taking it out. Just because you have pedal pressure doesnt mean it will be there when you need it.
A new fuel pump would be a good idea before any long cruise. I had one that sat for too long & the diaphram dry rotted & came apart 20 mi outside of town.
All the above and pack the front wheel bearings.Grease the suspension.Then it should be Happy Motoring.
Is "a while" months or years? Check trans and rear end oil levels, and spring shackle bolt tightness too. Smell the gas, if i doesn't stink and runs ok it's probably ok to run out. Extra fuel filter is always a good idea although that one probabaly just has a "glass bowl" to remove, dump and replace. Have a new gasket ready for it first or it's bound to leak. Brakes, bearings and wheel nuts probably the most important, if it doesn't run it can't kill ya...
Make sure it has ENOUGH gas in it. Have somebody available with a tow strap or trailer in case of a break down. If you dont have a cell phone tell the wife or a buddy to come looking for you if your not back in a certain time and tell them your route. Dont do like I did and just keep driving around since things were going so well and have the wife come looking and cant find you. Boy was she pissed when she finally got home and I was there.
Being an old state inspector, I give all my new rides an inspection. Start with the obvious like lights, fluid levels, play in the steering wheel, brake pedal height etc. etc. A short road test for braking, pulsation, bad tires, pulling etc. That will give you a clue as to where to look if something feels or sounds funny. Your eyes are the best diagnostic tools you have. Are all the cotter pins in place on the critical points? Are the rubber bushings coming apart? Jack it up and set it on jack stands under the lower control arms or straight axle. Put a lever under the tire and try to raise the tire. If it moves, where does it move? Are the wheel bearings loose or are the suspension joints worn? If the tire and drum move without the spindle moving then you need to look at and adjust the wheel bearings. If the spindle moves, look to see what is worn. Then grab the tire at 9 and 3 o'clock and push and pull. If you feel movement have someone shake the tire while you see where it is moving. If the idler arm is moving up and down before it moves left and right then it needs to be repaired/replaced. If the tie rod ends move before the arms start to move then you have work to do. Peel back the dust boots on the wheel cylinders to check for weeping. If they are damp, replace them. Check for dampness at the M/cyl mounting point or dust boot. Trace out the steel brake lines looking for rusty spots. Pay special attention at the connectors. They seem to rust more at the fittings than along the frame. Check the brake hoses for fraying and peeling. It's a good time to lube everything. Not only the suspension components but the hinges and latches etc. Lubrication can do wonders for and old car that probably was neglected over the years. This is not very comprehensive but it will give you some things to check out. Most of it is common sense but you have to pay attention to what you are feeling and seeing. Good luck.