Looked at a couple of steering wheel restoration threads. I get the epoxy (which I have started) for filling. The threads I've seen say base then clear paint. I want to do this with spray can paint. What would be the best primer and finish coat spray bombs to use that will hold up?
Good question. I found a Ford banjo wheel in poor condition. This swap meet jewel needs much filler and finally paint. The spokes are fine but it needs the center horn button too.
I have used Ace Hardware appliance epoxy paint and it works great. The color selection is not so good, but the almond was perfect for my car.
Rustoleum appliance epoxy paint rocks! It goes on smooth, flows very nicely and dries hard as hell. It doesnt seem to fade either. Bad part... only available in black and white.
I have painted a few steering wheels and I will say that the key to them holding up is less about what kind of top coat paint you use and more about having clean hands when you drive the car. Sticky hand prints ruined one of my wheels prematurely, where the same white paint has held up on my other car which I have been careful not to drive with dirty hands. That, and good primer/prep work underneath.
I agree that epoxy is the ticket. I have painted wheels in the past with lacquer and it wore off surprisingly quickly. I went the appliance epoxy route this last time and it sprayed and looked beautiful. Unfortunately it had yet to dry after more than 3 weeks went by! I ended up wiping it off and using Endura and a touch-up gun. Lots of folks have used the appliance epoxy to good effect so I would just caution you to try painting something else first just to be sure it will cure. -Dave
I have used Plasticote Spray bombs and also their clear, They have held up really well. I usually put at least three coats of the clear on. KK
"I will say that the key to them holding up is less about what kind of top coat paint you use and more about having clean hands when you drive the car. Sticky hand prints ruined one of my wheels prematurely, where the same white paint has held up on my other car which I have been careful not to drive with dirty hands." I thought that was the purpose of Driving gloves ? ? Really though, I bought some rattle can metal flake paint and from Ace and covered it with clear coat and it's holding up really well. I'm using it on my bead roller. Movin/on
The Duplicolor truck and suv rattle cans are all lacquer, dry very fast, are available in an infinite array of color, and is tuff as nails.
Will do this after I get the interior redone which will match the wheel to the seats... In the meantime, Picked up some Appliance Epoxy paint over lunch since I only need black. Does not recommend primer, perfect! I will let you know of the results.
I used the Krylon Fusion on a 54 Chev. car steering wheel. I drove it for about a year before selling the vehicle. It held up well. The color options would be somewhat limited. I used Ivory and Black.
Good info guys I was going to send mine out to be restored ill try this first and see how long it will last
A couple of guys hit it up the way, but I use tons of Rustoleum appliance epoxy, and YOU HAVE TO LET IT DRY FOR A FEW WEEKS BEFORE YOU USE IT! For you guys back east, bring it in the house and put it in a room with the door closed for the first week or your significant other will be pissed at the smell, but that is the only way it will cure.
Do yourself a favor go to Home Depot, Lowes, local HWS and get a Pre Val kit. Then get a 1/2 pint of single stage acrylic enamel automotive paint. You will a super hard coating and a brillliant finish.
3 weeks to dry epoxy?!?! Only conclusion would be you mixed it with wrong amount of hardener. My experiance on epoxy is that it dries much faster than enamel, also faster than acrylic. Also unlike enamel, the epoxy dries all thought the coat at same time. Enamel dries through evaporation, thus surface dris first and the thicker the coat the longer it takes to dry through. I would use epoxy or acrylic on a steering wheel. Acrylic is easily available in any given shade of a color. Epoxy may be problematic to get in specific color.
No problems here with drying times. But... I did let it dry in the garage during summer for 3 days before touching it.
tinsled.. You missed the part where I said I'd used appliance epoxy - it's a spray bomb-not mixed by me. I was curious that epoxy which is typically two part can come in a spray can, but guys have used it successfully. Unfortunately mine did not! Thus my switch to Endura. -Dave
I believe that spray can epoxy is uncatalyzed, which sounds nuts when I type that, in that an epoxy by nature uses a catalyst of some sort. I have had similar drying times with normally catalyzed enamel packed non-catalyzed in a spray can. It takes forever to completely dry, yet it flashes to the touch fairly quickly. I do notivce that spray can Epoxy dries MUCH quicker in Phoenix's hot summers, too. All in all, If you use it and dry it somewhere warm for a week or two you'll love it.
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