Hi folks I'm not exactly sure but it looks like I have an edelbrock 600 or 650 4 barrell in my shoebox with the Flatty v8 stock, with 2 of the barrels not working supposively I was told to conserve gas. I think it's overkill and I want to change it out. What's a good size? I have the edelbrock manifold for the 4 barrel type carbs. I've been told there is a 390cfm which is still 4 barrell but will conserve gas and still give me what I need for the stock flatty. I also want to chenge the guts oif the dizzy out with a pertonix and maybe even a Powermaster XS starter, all in the name of reliability and longevity of the flathead. I'm removing the oilpan and cleaning it all out of the years of sludge it has and replacing the oil pump and oil screen and the fuel pump, seals on the pan and front and back oil seals along with the flywheel dust cover. Anything else I should replace that's easy while the pan is out? Ozzie PS, I'll gather all the parts necessary and then do it all when I get back to town even for a couple of days during this job I'm on.
600 CFM is definitely too much carb. I think Holley makes a 390 and a lot of flatheaders are using it. If you can find a good Carter WCFB with vacuum secondaries that's a good choice. It fits the bolt pattern perfectly and does not require any adapter.
Were it mine, I'd remove the small to large carb adapter from the intake and use a Carter WCFB from an early '50s Olds or Cadillac on it. They flow around 375-400 cfm and are well suited to a flathead. Also, that loadamatic distributor isn't going to be the hot setup, even with a breakerless conversion.
i doubt the two barrels arent working, its probably just a vaccum secondary, and playing with the butterfly without it running, the back two barrels wont open
I'm using a carter wcfb, it works good, and is about a 450cfm. While the pan is off, you can roll some mains, and rod bearings in there. At least check them for wear.
While the pan is off you might consider re torquing the rods and mains. Specs from Rumbleseat:MAINS: nuts on studs = 80 ft/lbs (‘48 and older) bolts = 100 ft/lbs (‘49 and newer) NOTE: The tightening sequence is REAR, FRONT, and CENTER. NOTE: The mains started using bolts beginning in ‘49. The two shouldered bolts (no lock washers) are used on the front main. The two remaining mains (center and rear) use lock washers on their cap screws. RODS: Both self locking nuts and non-locking nuts = 540 in/lbs (or 45 ft/lbs) NOTE: Torque in 2 stages
Jalopy, flathead, heathen and 47 thanks for that info on checking the main bearings and checking the torque on the main bolts. I've thought about ordering a set of bolts from speedway and just replacing them. As for the manifold, it is an Edelbrock 4 barrell manifold, not an adapter, so I'll look for the Holley 390cfm #4160. It has an electric choke if I'm not mistaken and has the possibility of the kickdown for the Ford auto tranny...incase I decide later on to get that adapter plate and install a C4 tranny. Thanks for the help folks, Ozzie
The Holley 390 or Edelbrock 500 will work well - remember, they're flowed differently, so are probably closer than the numbers look. Of course, a WCFB would be even better. When you going to be back in town, Ozzie? I get in the 16th & leave the 26th...
Holley 390 ..list #8007 is a great choice for a stock flatty. Works great and is trouble free, with electric choke... easy start.........and you can find a killer air cleaner to install to cover the fact that it's a late carby.
I have used a WCFB from 53 Cad, and an Edelbrock 500 on flathead cars with no problems...and much more trouble free that -bolt strombergs.