Bringing my 389 Pontiac to the engine guy tomorrow. It's been a looooong time since I paid to have this done. What should I expect to pay? Machine shop, Standard V-8 Valve job ..no parts. Hot tank block, freeze plugs, Install cam bearings, hone. [Not going to bore it..no ring ridge] Then to a second guy, Labor to rebuild short block and install heads. Using original cam and lifters. Just a freshen up. I already have a rebuild kit, I'm putting the tin on and bolt in the car. What should I expect the guy to tell me this is all gonna cost? Thanks,
I spent $1200 on a 327 chevy 14 years ago. A big chunk was in the heads. I also had it bored. No matter what it is, spend enough to get new cam and lifters.
The shop I use now charges 500 for block ass. and around 300 for heads. There will be added charges for the bearings installed and any machining of any sort.
Valve job should be around $125, they'll probably also charge a small fee to disassemble/re-assemble the heads. While the heads are apart I'd install new valvesprings because the stockers are 50 years old and have a billion cycles on them. To clean-n-check the block, cam bearing, freeze plug, and hone could be any where from $150-250. For peace of mind I'd also do a hone on the mains, that's around $75-125. For assembly our shop gets $300 for short blocks and $500 for completes. Hope this is close, price-wise.
I think I would have dropped it off and had an estimate done. the questions is the bore standard does the crank need any work line bore resize the rods what all does the heads need. that would have been before I bought a rebuild kit. If the block needs to go thirty then you need pistons This is a question for the machine shop...... If you do it half ass money wasted. My machine shop charges 300.00 to assemble long block after all the machine work is done.
Up north the prices are higher. I get $165.00 for V-8 valve job. Includes clean, mag, warp check. Grind. set spring heights, assemble. $75-110.00 Remove plugs/bearings, inspect, clean. $175.00 line bore/hone
7 years ago I spent $600, on just the block, no parts, no rod work, no crank or head work. Cleaned, magnaflux, align hone, bore and hone with plates, deck block from crank center line, install new cam bearings and install freeze plugs and oil galley plugs. All the parts were new and then there was a charge to have it all balanced.
It's kinda hard to guess a price. Machine shop prices are all over the place these days. I used to use one that was dirt cheap and gave me cut rate prices. They are closed down now. Go figure. I would say that $7-800 would be a good price. I can almost guarantee it's going to cost you more then that though. You left out some things that I would think will need some attention. The heads will most likely need parts. Springs, maybe some valves. You need to use new lifters too. If the cam has any wear on it it will at least need to be reground if not replaced. Have you mic'd the cylinders? The crank? Resize the rods. The bearings have to be bought after you know what sizes you need. Turning a crank isn't cheap if it's needed.
And your using 2 different shops because? I myself would not install machined and assembled parts(heads or other)without disassembly and inspection......and that isn't a free service. Tony
Hell, 10 years ago I spent $500 on machine work, and $550 on parts just for the short block on my 427 Chevy, but that doesn't mean much today. From talking to a local engine builder who does all the machine work, and assembly in one shop. He told me he usually bills around $1300-$1700 for a complete engine build, including head work. The difference in the two prices are whether it needs boring, and whether the valves all need changing to SS valves, and new hardened seats. But I have always asked the prices of various operations when I dropped off an engine for rebuilding, or heads for rework. I wouldn't care what any of us tell you here, he might charge twice what we think if the going rate!
You should have asked the machinist. They all have a menu with standard fees they charge for various operations. I would just call him tomorrow and tell him you are curious what the charges will be. Every time I take one in they write up a slip with the jobs I want done and then they quote me a price. You had better do the same thing with the guy assembling the engine or you may get sticker shock when you get both bills. The last engine we had done was $1200 not including heads, but that was bored, align honed, tumble cleaned with shot, cam bearings, crank turned, decked, brass freeze plugs, rods resized and pistons installed, and balanced. Heads were $800 more. Don
Since it is a Pontiac, I hope the shop's your taking it to id familiar with Pontiacs. They are NOT just another sbc cam and intake job. My guess since it is a more expensive parts wise brand, hopefully not a year specific motor....think 65? Your going to be close to $2000 to have a turn key motor.
Of course I did, I ain't no rookie As far as line-boring or any other kind of machine work...all it will need is what I mentioned.. Just trying to see what is customary in the machine world today. Of course I will be getting estimates when I drop it off...but I don't know if I should expect him to say $500 for assembly....or $2500????? Thanks for the input. I'm really scared of sticker shock...I really don't want to spend $3000 to ring and bearing this thing....
Can't help with prices but make sure to remove the hidden oil galley plug behind the freeze plug on the passenger side of the back of the block.
Then ask the shops doing the work for you what the cost will be The answers you get here will be all over the map and the bottom line is what the people doing the work will charge you.
1500.00 to 2000.00. That's what my pontiac motor I'm having built is costing me. The heads alone where 500.00. I guess it depends on what you want out of the motor and what it's job is gonna be.
You need hardened seats put in the heads because of the un-leaded gas. New cam and springs a must as said. Mike
This brings back memories, a fella about 20 years ago told me he was having machine work done on his small block and it was going to run him about 400 dollars, and he wanted to know if it was to much. I said it sounded OK. The he said they will assemble my short block for 35 dollars, and I told him that was way too much to assemble a short block. Sounds like a basic overhaul being done at the engine shop on a 389 Poncho I would not expect to get out the door for less than 2K parts and labor. I have no idea what that machine shop is going to charge. I would tell you to expect 2K minumum if you wanted me to do just your basic street small block here.
Don in post #13 is right. Most shops have an ala carte menu for standard services. You can shop around if you like. Older established shops are usually the least expensive from my experience. Add-ons are usually very reasonable. I always take my guesstimate on the cost and double it. I also advise to have everything done by one shop. Bob
I'm not dealing with the machine shop, the assembler is. I guess its like building a house, If you have a General Contractor...not sure if he is gonna be all that thrilled if you start asking all his subs what they are charging him... There is an inherent mark up... Since I haven't had an engine reconned in decades. I figured you fellas could tell me what to expect. And you have, thanks.
exshelby, Your builder/assembler should be able to shoot you a price up front and if he misses it that is on him. If I am building an engine and not doing the machine work myself I either know what the machine shop is going to charge me or I call prior to making a guesstimate, then I shott the client one price, and stick by it. If I loose money it is on me I am the one doing the business of rectifying the engine.
Even if you are going through an engine assembler and he is contracting with the machine shop you still should be able to find out what your cost will be for the machining operations. He will quote you the retail price and he will get the discounted price from the machine shop. It isn't like he takes the retail price and then tacks on some markup, that wouldn't be fair. How can you even enter into an agreement without having some idea of what your final cost will be ? There is no reason you can't say to the engine assembler "What am I looking at for the machining and for your portion." If you don't get that info you will be one of the guys on here whining later on about how you got screwed. I have a great relationship with the engine shop who does our work, and trust him completely, but I still ask him what I am going to have to shell out so I can start planning my budget. It only makes sense to do that. Don
You say it doesn't need anything more but unless you have the machinest check and measure the cylinders for round and taper you are just guessing and hoping. All of us has probably thrown an engine together with a quick hone job and some fresh rings but it was never on an engine we needed to be reliable.
For purpose of comparison here is the price sheet from Booth Arons here in Detroit. I feel some of these prices are on the high side but they are better than either Roush or Holbrook.
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