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What paint do you guys use for engine blocks and heads?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Little Terry, Oct 5, 2010.

  1. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 510

    Little Terry
    Member

    I wanna make the 292 six that I'm rebuilding into a real beauty if I can. What would you recommend I use to paint it? In the past I've just gone for some rattle-can, no-name engine enamel and not been too impressed. Does it make any difference?

    The block and head are totally stripped down and will go to be acid dipped soon.

    I don't have any fancy spray booth - just a compressor, gun and an engine stand.....oh and not too much in the way of skill!

    Thanks,
    Mark.
     
  2. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,693

    Weasel
    Member

    I use Duplicolor high heat engine primer with ceramic part number DE 1612 and then regular paint - either rattle can or automotive paint. Never had a problem.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2010
  3. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,693

    Weasel
    Member

  4. henryj429
    Joined: Jan 18, 2007
    Posts: 1,062

    henryj429
    Member

    I use the same base/clear that I use on the body. It gives a much better finish and keeps its shine. Rattle can engine paints all dull fairly quickly. I've got 30,000+ miles on a couple engines, with real good results, the only small drawback being a slight yellowing of the clear near the exhaust ports.
     

  5. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    I paint my engines the same way I paint the rest of the vehicle. No rattle can anything...
     
  6. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,298

    -Brent-
    Member

    Bill Hirsch Automotive has good products, either sprayable or brush-able.
     
  7. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,426

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    as said above..you dont need no hi-falutin paint to paint an engine..

    mine is base coat clear coat..same shit you paint the body with
     
  8. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 510

    Little Terry
    Member

    Does it even need to be high-temp stuff or just any regular primer and paint?
     
  9. BulldawgMusclecars
    Joined: Jul 15, 2010
    Posts: 508

    BulldawgMusclecars
    Member

    Same here...I don't use engine paint anymore. Seems like half the time its flaking before you get the engine in the car.
     
  10. hotflint
    Joined: May 9, 2009
    Posts: 310

    hotflint
    Member

    I use an industrial single stage, great heat resistance, can get it in bright mettallics and is made to be exposed to chemicals.
     
  11. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,594

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    I would be careful with machined surfaces/bearing journals and acid dipping. I would also worry about getting it out of all of the passages.

    Hot tanking yes. There is a difference.
     
  12. Little Terry
    Joined: Oct 17, 2007
    Posts: 510

    Little Terry
    Member

    ^^I'll try hot tanking then, thanks.^^

    So to clarify on the paint thing, if I just use a high-build etch primer then a normal cellulose top coat, things will be ok?

    Please bear in mind, I have no experience of painting bodywork.

    Thanks,
    Mark.
     
  13. BulldawgMusclecars
    Joined: Jul 15, 2010
    Posts: 508

    BulldawgMusclecars
    Member

    What I do is grind off any burrs (and, depending on the customer, I may smooth the entire block, but its not necessary), and prime it with a 2k fast build primer. I put this on in a fairly thin coat, just enough to help seal any pores in the engine. I'll lightly scuff it with Scotchbright, then hit it with 2 coats of basecoat. Once that has flashed, I'll go over it with a urethane clear (I don't know if you can even get cellulose here). I have also used a single stage urethane, rather than base/clear, and it works fine. I just don't use single stage much anymore.
     
  14. 3Kidsnotime
    Joined: Oct 4, 2010
    Posts: 247

    3Kidsnotime
    Member
    from Utah

    I have literally paintes hundreads of engines in BC/CC automotive finish usually dupont but any brand will be fine. That block will never be as hot as a black hood in Havasu.

    [​IMG]
     
  15. George
    Joined: Jan 1, 2005
    Posts: 7,448

    George
    Member

    I've used PlasiKote with good results. My machine shop guy says the OEM paint comes right off in the hot tank, but PlasiKote is much tougher to get off.
     
  16. Snarl
    Joined: Feb 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Snarl
    Member

    Do not use a high built polyester primer like Featherfill to smooth out the parts. It will start to pop off in chucks after it heat cycles a few times. I found this out the hard way.
    If you want a smooth finish, grind down the casting. Just use a regular coat of urethane or epoxy primer like you would on the body...
     
  17. rjaustin421
    Joined: May 1, 2009
    Posts: 337

    rjaustin421
    Member

    X2 on the Plasti-Kote- I have found it to be superior in durability and color.
     
  18. ol green
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 15

    ol green
    Member

    I used POR15 on my 406 chevy, it took alot more work but turned out real nice

    I just used duplicolor hi temp primer then paint on the 351w which turned out good with less work

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. Double Caddy
    Joined: Feb 2, 2009
    Posts: 689

    Double Caddy
    Member
    from virginia

    I used a ppg epoxy primer and ppg single stage urethene . its durable as hell looks great plus you can get it in any color you want.
     

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  20. magsnubby
    Joined: Feb 7, 2007
    Posts: 486

    magsnubby
    Member
    from Fresno,Ca

    I used Dupli-Color engine paint on this one. It was hot tanked then i wiped it down with acetone, primed it and painted it.
     

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  21. In this part of the world, I'm not a paint man by any means.
    I ground flashing and a little more from the cylinder heads and the engine block, wiped all with lacquer thinner, primed with Duplicolor gray engine primer, painted with Valspar Allis Chalmers orange tractor rattle can paint. Duplicolor silver on the oil pan.
    If the paint burns, don't care. If so, will be like one of the tools I used when younger to work, now I'm havin' fun.
     
  22. whid
    Joined: Jun 20, 2008
    Posts: 452

    whid
    Member

    por15x2.......some slick stuff.........whid
     
  23. JrFuel
    Joined: May 22, 2007
    Posts: 116

    JrFuel
    Member
    from USA

    PPG Concept with Hardener... thats My choice also!!

    (but I've got a buddy who swears by One Shot Lettering Enamel)

    Larry
     
  24. Nicholson
    Joined: Aug 9, 2006
    Posts: 169

    Nicholson

    Epoxy primer and single stage urethanes have worked best for me. I've done a few base clear but the clear always turns yellow.
     
  25. Check out Bill Hirsch Automotive paint. If it is clean, free of oil, dirt etc....they claim you can just spray it on (gun or can) and that's it. I'm going to give it a try.
     
  26. D-fens
    Joined: Aug 30, 2007
    Posts: 369

    D-fens
    Member
    from Huntsville

    Same as some of the other guys, PPG (Shopline) single-stage. Usually keep a quart can of semi-gloss black hanging around just for engines and chassis parts. Was planning on spraying some stuff today but don't have the right temp hardener for the weather. Sucks to be me.

    I remember seeing an article in either Car Craft or R&C (early 60's) about how to paint engines, probably written by Tex Smith. He was all about painting engine blocks white for some reason. Was that some kinda trend of the day?
     
  27. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,735

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Mark use epoxy primer and then 2 pack paint, nothing comes remotely close to this for finish and durability.

    If you want it to look pretty without too much work just scoot the sticky out bits off and round the corners etc etc, the paint will make it look much better, or if you really feeling adventurous you could smooth the block completely like i did, it didn't take as long as you think.

    The last shot is epoxy primed.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2010
  28. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,735

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    I'm doing my block White, thats the sort of thing they did back then.

    White also hides a lot surprisingly


     
  29. stevens2@htva.net
    Joined: Jul 26, 2008
    Posts: 59

    stevens2@htva.net
    Member
    from 14883

    acrylic enamel with hardener works fairly will. This roadster has a few thousand miles on it and the only place it burn off is on the exhaust cross over on the intake, not bad.
     

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  30. I cleaned my motor with some wax and grease remover then sprayed it with bulldog. Next I sprayed it with a coat of VHT ceramic primer and finaly base coat and clear.
     

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