The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Jarred Hodges, Nov 28, 2009.
not the new stuff.........better check the label....
VR-1 Valvoline 20-50W in my engines without rollers. GM 5-30W in all my daily drivers since the 80s. Thinking of going to Brad Penn maybe later.
Red line in everything
NAPA 30w in my 1950 flathead NAPA oil is made my valvolive good stuff.
pennzoil 30w HD in the rod ,sbc 45000 miles so far ,not even a hic up
Castrol GTX 20-50
Whatever is on sale
Don't buy in to the Madison Ave. hype.
I feel clean cheap oil is way better than dirty hi-dollar designer "top shelf" lube.
I may dump in a little EOS in my flat tappet engines.
I use Mobil Delvac in everything. Just keeping it simple it has worked good for me. I use EOS from GM in my break in oil. Never lost a cam or engine.(knock knock)
Found that tractor supply has Travellers Branded 15w 40 diesel service oil that is also good for gas engines. It inexpesive, has the same specs ratings as the older Rotella T. (might be the same stuff in their bottle)
Buy it in the 2 gallon juf for 18 bucks or so. Have run it in my rebuilt flat head 6 for about 12k miles with no problems.
the wet gooey stuff
I use Castrol GTX 20/50 and have for years.
I use Delvac 15W40 in my CAT diesel with a gallon of Lucas added at each oil change. I don't idle, I sample pretty regularly and go 50K with each oil change. The engine has over 1,000,000 since the last major overhaul but I did put rods/mains in it at 710,000 miles.
I used AMSOIL in my dirt cars for years with great results.
I recently bought 75 quarts of older (mid-90's) vintage Valvoline and Pennzoil in various weights plus 18 cans of GM EOS... $60.00 for the lot at a local garage sale. I guess that's my new favorite brand for my dailys.
The only oil I have ever had a concern about was the Citgo 10W30 I used in my E350 and a F150... it seemed to break down and get real thin (and HOT!) at regular operating temps... I thought I had a bearing problem sneaking up on me but on TWO vehicles several years apart? The problems went away after I switched brands.
DITTO ! 5w-30 works for me
castrol 2050 in old original flathead
15W 40 Diesel.... it cleans and performs!
Uh, I believe everyone was talking about engines, not rear ends.
When I first brought the Kripple Kart to England it ran fine, no leaks, no topping up for about 3000k. I'm a dummy when it comes to US Engines so I asked a lot of questions about what should go in a 351W and everyone holered "Mobil 1!" So I changed and developed an oil leak and was topping her up every few hundred miles. So when she came back from the Kustomisation (after about 9000 miles on Mobil 1)I went back to mineral 20/50 one that we have over here specially for older style engines. 1000 or so miles later, no leaks, no topping up. Go figure.
The standard comment is synthetics will desolve the crap that helps seal the old gaskets & then it leaks out.
pennz in new stuff, castroil in flatheads
3 in 1 oil for me.
I use delvac 15/40 it is really good stuff. I think Diesel oil is great for engines with blowby. it seems to keep its vicosity even when it is at the end of its life cycle.
Just an FYI. The government mandates on zinc levels effect everything used in normal driving. This means even the diesel oil has reduced zinc levels because newer, roller cammed engines don't need it as much. This includes all synthetics as well.
What has all the zinc? 'Racing' oil. And the government defines racing oil as anything that is 20W50, so this will have the normal requirement of zinc. Oil specifically listed as 'racing oil' regardless of manufacturer should have the required zinc as well. This includes Brad Penn, AMSOIL, Redline, etc. You need to read the label and the product sheet to see the zinc levels (needs to be 1200PPM or better) for use in flat tappet cams.
I've used Mobil 1 in my daily drivers (5W30) and my race cars (viscosity varied by engine/clearances) and I've never had a problem. I personally don't think additives did anything otherwise the manufacturers would advise to add it. Never used them in my street cars or my racing cars and never will.
I started using AMSOIL in my bel air this past season. Mainly because it's made here in Wisconsin and i get it for wholesale through my work. otherwise i think it's like $9.50/qt.
Real racing oil's additive pakage has something like a 1500 mile life span, where racers change oil often. If it says SM, no zinc, as far as 20-50 is concerned.
10w40 Valvoline in everything.
Whatever is cheapest in Wal-Mart,usually Penzoil or Gtx in the daily and Rotella in the hot rods.
Pennzoil 5w-30 or 10w-30, unless its a leaker/smoker, then I just run 20w-50.
Anything but Pennzoil, I had a bearing failure in a new OT car that was oil related. I was Using Pennzoil at the time, changed every 3,000 miles. Two of the best local mechanics and a racecar builer i know as a personal friend have all said the wouldn't use Pennzoil. One mechanic siad he wouldn't oil a door hindge with it. I noticed how thin it would always be when changing it. the racer i know said it was that way after two passes. On the other hand another friend uses straight weight Pennzoil and got 230,000 hard miles out of an S 10. I try to use Valvoline or Wolfs Head if I can find it.
Mobil 1 in all, Including the Diesel Duramax. I will run nothing but Synthetic after saving a race engine for 58 nights on the stuff.. Freshened the ol girl (Rings Bearings Gaskets and 1 piston) Sold it as a backup, the guy put it in and is still running it. Over 85 nights at 7200 in the dirt with stock parts.
( I might have "Seasoned" it with a small overheating problem one night as the temp guage still reads 295+ 3 years later... )
Perhaps, but it's for sure that Mobil 1's H2O-like viscosity doesn't help!
I always use Pennzoil GT performance 20/50. Excellent for warm running or savere duty older engines with larger tolerences in mild climates. It also has detergents that break down crap.
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