The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Al, Feb 6, 2021.
I don't have a thumbs up icon or I would have put it here.
I guess. LOL
Some people have reading comprehension problems and clearly don't know much about how products work. The problem isn't specifically the product you used it is the time it has been sitting since it was applied and the unknown of what was put on before hand and what it went through when the other guy had it. . You don't need to spend a fortune on products but you need to be smart about the way you use them. Had you applied the aerosol spray primer a week ago, over bare metal you would be fine. Over a year ago there is risk, add to that the fact that a different unknown primer was on it before that and looks like it very well could have been left outside for some indeterminate period of time increase the risk further.
I see failures all the time from restorations that were started and then left to sit in primer for a year or two. The owner gets back to it, paint is applied and then a year or two later it starts to bubble. Their first reaction is products failed. You strip off the paint and find corrosion under the primer and explain how primers work. It's a shitty thing to have to tell them it could have been avoided after the fact. It sucks to have to redo stuff you thought was done but it will suck even more if it happens when you are all done.
Oh really? Hmmmmm....
Dude you're the one pushing him to paint over a suspect base. If I told you I had a jug of unsealed oil that I didn't know what it was that I got from some guy two years ago would you tell me to use it in my engine? Might be fine right?
Dude, No I'm not! I'm not pushing him to paint over a suspect base, I'm challenging the assertions that he must remove the primer because it's rattle can primer. There may be perfectly good reasons to remove it for other reasons, I never said there wasn't, in fact I believe I posted about possible chemical incompatibility with the top coat, that is something to be checked.
Crap. Ill embarrass myself.
If all ya want is it to look a little better then sand over that rattle can primer and shoot the most economical paint you can find. I will say an automotive grade old school straight enamel or an industrial alkyd is easier to spray than rustoleum ((just my opinion)
If your trying to make it look perfect then start all over.
I didn't mean for you guys to get pissed at one another. Yes I DO have Comprehension problems. I have had them all my life. I am 70 now and still have problems. I have been doing this same car for well over 20 years. That Yellow primer has been on the car. Everywhere. Inside out. It is thick. There was no front clip. I got that from a 37 Fordor. Where ever I had to do bodywork. I always used the grinder to bring it to bare metal, and used filler from Eastwood. I do have a Gallon of High fill primer that I bought from Eastwood. I thought that if I used a 120 grit over the whole car. It would go to the bare metal in the scratch marks to hold that primer down. Then use 320 grit to smooth that out. Seal that, and paint it. I have COPD pretty bad now, so I won't have this car for a lot of years. I would like to drive it a few times before I have to sell it. I have had no real help except for people on the sites, and youtube. I don't want any Pity. Then again I don't want to hear that I should seel it, and get something someone has done all of the work on. What I have I have. And yes Blues4U. You have to take all of the advice with a grain of salt. I want to paint it White, because I know my body work won't be 100% perfect. This is no show car. Though when I did build a show car I used rattle car primer on it. A place painted it. The paint is still on the car, and looks fine. Now as to the White and the paint. All I have heard is Tamco is a good paint. Just more affordable than PPG. They told me Single Stage. I thought Base coat/ Clear coat, but because I have a compressor older than some of the people on that Tamco site that I should get a new Expensive compressor.. I am taking money from my pension now to get this done. What would be a good paint to spray. Thanks..
Scuff it and shoot it. More air would be better. but if you want it to be decently shiny white and not perfect, go for it.
Getting it right/show car/ vs getting it driving, totally different. Youll be just fine.
Duraflint is pretty forgiving.
Should I then get maybe a Gallon, and a couple of Quarts if I use my compressor, and a LVLP gun??
I also have a pancake compressor. I could get a Y connector, and power both compressors threw it. It would be some more air. Would I still need the LVLP gun, or the HVLP gun??
There’s a guy locally here that has a 34 Chevy coupe that he did with rustoleum and a roller. It actually looks pretty good. There are threads on painting with rustoleum, you can add a hardener. Keep in mind if you shoot urethane, it requires special health precautions and ideally a breathing air supply.
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I do have a Honeywell half face mask with new filters to paint with. Now I just said urethane. I don't know what else there is??
If you have COPD don't even think about painting it yourself! Urethane paint vapors are VERY TOXIC!
I just finished painting my Model A roadster one piece at a time with only a face mask - a good one, DeVilleBiss - and I could feel the strain it was putting on my lungs. Even if you did it outside with a piped-in air supply I wouldn't take the risk if I were you.
A gallon mixed would shoot the outside of the car easy enough i bet, maybe get a couple quarts to do the jambs with and have a little leftover for comfort.
YES! if you've got another compressor hook it on, anything you can do to add to your air capacity will help. Hell, you could even tape off sections (front clip) (doors) anywhere there's a nice break in the car and make it smaller chunks to paint at a time
I've been a member of this forum for many years and I have to tell you this is unquestionably my very most bestest favorite thread ever.
I sincerely hope no one takes offense to this, but for me, it has provided more information and entertainment than 90% of the current shows on television.
Heading out to buy some rattle can primer....
In 1990 I painted a '40 pickup with a DeVillbiss JGA siphon feed, a 2HP Craftsman compressor with a 20 gallon tank, and a Binks pressure regulator and water filter. Dupont Lucite Acrylic Lacquer. The pickup was disassembled, and I painted the cab in one session, the bed in another, then the fenders and hood. I ran the pressure a little lower than I probably should have, but it turned out better than I expected and is still a solid paint job today, 30+ years later. Here's a couple shots when it needed a couple dings touched up.
Scuff the car and take it to Maaco for paint?
I have 4 years and 10 months left to work before I retire at 59 1/2. This thread has made me resolve to help a few guys / gals out when I have the time and they don’t, the shop when they don’t. You are 11 hours away or else I would volunteer to help. I’m sure others would as well. I hope someone here would do the same for me if I was in the same situation. Regards, Randy
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Finally some common sense coming into this thread. Thank you guys for speaking up.
Thanks Randy. Hardest part was taking the body off the frame alone, and putting it back on.
Ken Borgren. We don't have a Maaco here, or would have called them by now.
Missysdad. I have to try. Have to take a lot of breaks, but I have to try. Then I can say I did it all myself.
Pick a paint system and use it from bare metal to topcote, forget rattle can primers unless you use them for a guide cote on your primers.
I didn't read all the suggestions, so maybe this has been said............For what all the paint and materials cost plus the amount of labor to get everything ready, you are putting yourself in a pretty iffy situation that may cause you to ruin your paint job. There are far too many things that can go wrong when painting to take a chance by using an inadequate air compressor. Just one such point is that as a compressor runs, the compressed air gets hot and holds moisture. Putting water separators close to any compressor pretty much makes them useless and you will get moisture coming thru. The continuous running of the small compressor exacerbates the situation. It may not be possible to keep a steady volume if the compressor can't keep up and the paint atomization will suffer. Just about everything that can go wrong is possible with the set up you want to use. Not trying to be a smarta** with this comment, just trying to say that you need to get a decent compressor before you try painting because there are simply too many issues with what you have available right now.
I would hook the pancake compressor to help keep the pressure up in the 21 gal and go for it. I’ve sprayed a lot of urethane, I turned the pressure down at the gun to 30 psi with a hardner and go for it. Keep a wet edge when spraying. You can do it.
Option—- put a coat of primer sealer on it and call it done. Drive and enjoy it. HRP (hot rod primer) does it.
I will have to try that pancake compressor Y'd to the other compressor. Run the hose threw a cooler full of ice with a water trap before and after to the pressure gauge at the gun. Only other gun I have is a Wagnor. Not sure what that would look like..
Maybe I should put on a White primer, and Clear Coat it..
What about one of those small turbine sprayers??
If you are going to rent a compressor ask about renting a nitrogen compressor. They rent them locally, they are mounted on a trailer so you can just pull it up to the garage and paint without worrying about water in the lines.
Check out CL or some local buy/sells.
I bought this for $400 cdn or 310 usd today. But you gotta have power for this as I do.
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