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what is this 34 five window worth?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Sam F., Jan 25, 2008.

  1. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 13,222

    F&J
    Member

    Are you ever going to have 10k saved in CASH, in case a SOLID but "stripped" 34 shell & frame pops up???

    Do you enjoy reworking old body panels...or hate doing that work?

    If I really wanted a 33/34 5w, I'd jump on it. I like working on sheetmetal though....
     
  2. myke
    Joined: Dec 13, 2004
    Posts: 2,134

    myke
    Member
    from SoCal

    Pass. It will cost alot to get it straight.

    Save up 8 to 10 grand and buy a nicer one. Your going to spend that much anyways on this and it will never be as good.
     
  3. 31whitey
    Joined: Jan 2, 2007
    Posts: 2,214

    31whitey
    Member

    theres that really trashed one ebay

    it has a rotted top and ok lower section

    by both and then you might have one nice body
     
  4. Buy it for 2 g's and then sell it for 4's and look for a better one:D
     
  5. zman
    Joined: Apr 2, 2001
    Posts: 16,594

    zman
    Member
    from Garner, NC

    It's worth well more than $2k right now. Patch panels aren't cheap for a '34 but they're out there. If the frame comes with it then it's a real good deal. I've been watching what 34's go for and collecting parts for mine and it would be easy to flip that one for more money.
     
  6. Gasserfreak
    Joined: Aug 31, 2004
    Posts: 1,342

    Gasserfreak
    Member
    from Yuma, AZ

    Best advice yet.

    Drew
     
  7. dirty mikey
    Joined: Oct 1, 2007
    Posts: 136

    dirty mikey
    Member
    from chicago IL

    2k doesnt buy much of anything these days especially a 34 if it was me and I wanted it she would of been mine, five hundred wont buy anything anymore.
     
  8. low budget
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 5,563

    low budget
    Member
    from Central Ky

    He has already been offered 1600...............It wont last long.
     
  9. ***Area-51***
    Joined: Mar 25, 2005
    Posts: 719

    ***Area-51***
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Ohio

    sam, you dont seem like your too excited about......that might be an indication to pass on it...........jim sibley might wanna give it a shot, lol
     
  10. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 35,164

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I would not hesitate for a moment to buy that one for 2K. I could part it out and double that in month, I know because I HAVE.
     
  11. Sam F.
    Joined: Mar 28, 2002
    Posts: 4,225

    Sam F.
    BANNED

    lol,,i'm sure it won't last long once it hits the Autotrader.,,but it has been advertised locally for 3 weeks acording to the owner,,,i just heard about it night before last.
     
  12. Sam F.
    Joined: Mar 28, 2002
    Posts: 4,225

    Sam F.
    BANNED


    but what would you part out? ...to sell for 4K???

    a cowl (actually pretty decent other than needing patch panels).two very fucked up doors, one not usauble for parts.)a smashed up quaterpanel ,,,one usable quarter panel that needs patch panels. a roof that has rust through on it in many places,not to mention all the damage on it?

    all that is worth 4K parted out?!
     
  13. loudpedal
    Joined: Mar 23, 2004
    Posts: 2,200

    loudpedal
    Member
    from SLC Utah

    Sam if this will help you:

    I bought this one for 9k 2 years ago. It has ONE rust hole the size of your thumb ...and that's it. Came with the frame, windshield, deluxe dash, windshield, deck lid and garnish moldings...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Tman
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 35,164

    Tman
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You answered your own question!To the guy that is missing ONE of those key parts makes them worth more. I brought back a rear roof section (basically from the B pillars back for a pal, he paid $500 just for that.
     
  15. bobby_Socks
    Joined: Apr 12, 2006
    Posts: 938

    bobby_Socks
    Member
    from ǑǃƕǑ

    I am going to be looking in the autotrader next week for this one. I would buy it. Like most are saying they are not getting any cheaper.
     
  16. sodbuster
    Joined: Oct 15, 2001
    Posts: 4,978

    sodbuster
    Member
    from Kansas

    Cheese grater rust bucket according to my pops.......He went and looked at it last weekend and called me to tell me about it and he said it is "rough" and for him to say that it must have been.........but, as he said you don't see that many 34' coupes lately, but it is a lot of money for a rust bucket.

    Chris Nelson
    Kansas

     
  17. 8flat
    Joined: Apr 2, 2006
    Posts: 1,382

    8flat
    Member

    2K is not bad.....but I like doing metal work.

    Hey, a t least you're not working on a chevy that has no reproduction panels....haha.
     
  18. squigy
    Joined: Nov 30, 2003
    Posts: 3,915

    squigy
    Member
    from SO.FLO.

    I agree with Eye....i would pay it and just let it sit around till i was ready.it will always go up in value if you decide not to build it.My .02
     
  19. sledish
    Joined: Jul 30, 2006
    Posts: 804

    sledish
    Member

    If your having second thoughts, listen to your second thoughts. Buyers remorse blows !
     
  20. Sam F.
    Joined: Mar 28, 2002
    Posts: 4,225

    Sam F.
    BANNED

    thank you Chris!

    these guys who are saying they would scoop it up in a heartbeat have obviously not seen it in person,the crappy cell phone pic makes it look like its something worth fixing,but up close its a whole nother story...you guys are making me laugh with some of your comments, haha


    and Kris Elmer,that is an awesome body,,i would feel way more comfortable paying 9K for that than 2K for this body...
     
  21. sodbuster
    Joined: Oct 15, 2001
    Posts: 4,978

    sodbuster
    Member
    from Kansas

    Yea, for my pops to pass on it it must have been a POS.........
     
  22. i looked at this tonight,,,i told the dude i'd sleep on it like Meatloaf......the doors are completly wasted..the driverside MIGHT be usable with a inner & outter lower partch panel and alot of metal work,,ALOT of metal work..,but the passenger side is just decoration. there is no decklid,the passenger side quarter is completely smashed up,,pretty bad. there is rust through everywere, .......Major problem if the rust thru is in areas where patch panels aren't available or aren't big enough ,i didnt see one panel without pinholes,,...on the roof,in the winshield inner header ......... This is what kills the deal, there is no good fix for thin rusty pinholed metal, especially if it is everywhere......,the body is seperated from the floor (what floor?!)and is flopping around at the bottom of the body,,,the rear lower valance is smashed up.the frame has visable rust through in the rear from 10 feet away.it needs patch panels al the way around...all the garnishes are gone
    ,,it was an ex stock car many many years ago....

    RUN!!! DON"T WALK AWAY FROM THIS ONE!!!!! In addition to the rust thru and pin holes, the other problems are bad but could be overcome if you had something to work with. I would hate to try and part this out and tell the buyer what he was getting without misrepresenting it. Anyone that says this is an "easy fix' has been smoking crack. Save your money and wait for a good body with solid metal. Pay more and get quality, and you might get it done before you get burnt out. This one meets the definition "RAT ROD"!!.
     
  23. rustymetal
    Joined: Feb 18, 2003
    Posts: 541

    rustymetal
    Member

    what do the stock car guys pay for those bodies,i bought one of those a year a go for 1.000 dollars but don,t have any pics of it .
    your pics are hard to go by and i don,t have any,but you know what they say a fool and there money soon parts
     
  24. Anderson
    Joined: Jan 27, 2003
    Posts: 6,649

    Anderson
    Member

    I'd spend $2000 for that. A decent model A coupe that needs all the patches is going for $1000-$1500....and a '33/4 5-window is one of my "must have" cars. Like was mentioned above, just buy it and stick it in a corner for a while. Eventually you'll forget how much you paid.

    Er....I only got to the end of page one before I replied. Looks like it is as bad as you say....so nevermind.
     
  25. KutThrtKustms
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 680

    KutThrtKustms
    BANNED
    from SO.CAL.

    I say build it back into a stock car and then sell it, you will get alot more for a running driving car, probably enough to buy a real nice body and frame. Just me thinking out loud.
     
  26. dontlifttoshift
    Joined: Sep 17, 2005
    Posts: 652

    dontlifttoshift
    Member

    Off the top of my head....
    Repro garnish mouldings (steel) $2,800
    Decklid $800
    subrails $500
    Trunk hinges $250
    roadster quarter panel $2,500
    quarter patches for the other side $100
    rocker panels $100
    Complete door skins with bead (both) $1,200
    Inner door patches $100
    Below decklid panel and related drip pans and such $600
    Cowl patches $125


    $9,075 plus all the little shit that is rusted or wore out beyond repair like door latches, hinges, cowl vent, rear window parts, side window
    regulators, etc. etc.

    This is just the money - not included is the mind fuck time to straighten, square, and align the old heap to something you would be proud of.

    Buy it (unless you have to get a loan) - part it out - DO NOT get attached to it;)
     
  27. 34Fordtk
    Joined: May 30, 2002
    Posts: 1,690

    34Fordtk
    Member

  28. Django
    Joined: Nov 15, 2002
    Posts: 10,196

    Django
    Member
    from Chicago

    I paid around 900 for our '35 that was liberated from a creek bed. It's hard to say from the shitty pick, but it looks fixable. Someone will save it.
     
  29. Evilfordcoupe™
    Joined: May 22, 2001
    Posts: 1,821

    Evilfordcoupe™
    Member

    Your just plain stupid to not buy it at this point.


    -Jason
     
  30. PollockzRodz
    Joined: Jan 28, 2007
    Posts: 362

    PollockzRodz
    Member

    ITS A 1934!!!! I would have it at my place already. I dont care if its totally gone Its still a good piece to start with because when you get done with the work the freakin thing will be worth just as much as all the others so when you went to sell it you could end up making some good money. Tin is Tin man and for it to be a 1934 coupe my jaw drops at any of that tin. Ive paid good money for some ruff bodies. Hell I love working with that 80 year old thin tin that when you weld to it the weld burns through every time. It just seperates the "Builders" from the "Buyers"
    If your not up to the job then pass but you could still make money on whats there shit just fix the frame and get all of your money back -Jon
     

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