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What is the proper way to adjust a 1932-1934 Ford steering box?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Chris, Jul 30, 2012.

  1. I have a rebuilt steering box I am gonna swap in my roadster. I pulled it apart to make sure everything inside looked good. This thing was rebuilt 20-30 years ago so I want to re-gasket it and make sure it won't leak :) I was surprised to see someone had a seal installed and also roller bearings in the sector housing! What is the proper procedure for adjusting these things? I know about shimming the top, and I see an adjustment plug on the back side (opposite sector)
    and then one of the housing bolts has a cam under it...
     
  2. Mr.Musico
    Joined: Jan 7, 2007
    Posts: 1,639

    Mr.Musico
    Member
    from SoCal

    bttt have a 32 box, need the same answer.
     
  3. sunbeam
    Joined: Oct 22, 2010
    Posts: 6,214

    sunbeam
    Member

    Shimming the to is just setting preload on the bearings the other is the hipoint adjustment turn the steering wheel to the center position rock the steering wheel back and forth across the center position and tighten screw until slight resistance is felt.
     

  4. Chris,I'll check my '32 Books when I get home tonight if nobody else comes up with the answer between now and then. HRP
     
  5. Mr 42
    Joined: Mar 27, 2003
    Posts: 1,215

    Mr 42
    Member
    from Sweden

    Found this om Early Ford page..
    """"""""""""
    The sector shaft adjustment is on the engine side of the box and low so it is somewhat hard to see from the top. This adjustment removes all of the end play of the sector shaft. If it is too tight the sector will be hard to turn, too loose and play is increased.
    There are three other adjustments. The amount of gaskets on top of the upper worm bearing cup adjust the end play of the worm bearing. There is an eccentric under one of the nuts that hold the sector housing to the box. This adj removes the play in the steering when the steering box is in the straight ahead position. The final adj is an eccentric screw with a slotted head for a screw driver it adjust the angle of the sector housing to the steering box and is adjusted to equalize the end play when the steering is in one extreme to the other extreme. The early Ford Service Bulletins explain the adjustments for the 32-37 box. They are not hard to do with the box on the bench.
    """""""""""""""
     


  6. Thanks, that helps a lot!
     
  7. mac3236
    Joined: May 3, 2009
    Posts: 20

    mac3236
    Member

    Also when rebuilding the box, adjust it and use silicon around the large cork seal that is held on with 4 bolts. Using the brass tube that is attached to the bottom plate is also a good idea. The plate with the brass tube started in 1934 and was used in the same configuration thru 1936. You can use it from 1932 thru 1936. Be shure to solder the tube to the plate, it cuts down on leaks.
     
  8. thequietwon
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 600

    thequietwon
    Member

    Not to hijack a thread, but is it normal for these boxes to still be hard as hell to steer? I have adjusted the straight ahead play with the lower eccentric, and messed with the sector adjustment on the engine side. I have tried different gasket thicknesses at the top of the column. I have adjusted everything according to early ford bulletins 3 times...no difference. It steers ok, it's just tight as hell, and sometimes even feels like it is trying to bind. The box feels great when the car is up on jack stands. Does the installation of roller bearings like Chris has in his box make a difference?
    Sam
     
    Baumi likes this.
  9. Mr 42
    Joined: Mar 27, 2003
    Posts: 1,215

    Mr 42
    Member
    from Sweden

    Yes...
    Not much, it's the design that make it heavy.
    Thats the reason we swap out to the F1 or F100 pickup box.

    Get this book and you know what to do.
    http://www.verntardel.com/collections/books/products/ford-steering-booklet
     
  10. tommy
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 14,757

    tommy
    Member Emeritus

    [​IMG]

    The stock 32 box requires an early Ford steering wheel to get the the leverage required to parallel park. A Grant wheel or other late model wheels will be very hard to steer. This box worked very well for me. Yeah it's hard to park but it's an old car and that is the way it was. I actually like the big wheel.

    I did send my old chromed sector housing out and had the needle bearings installed but I never used it.
     
  11. thequietwon
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 600

    thequietwon
    Member

    Tommy...
    I have an early wheel (wouldn't dream of anything else). If that is the way they were, than maybe I'll live with it. I am going to have to pull the engine to replace the clutch & was going to have the needle bearings installed in the box while I was at it because I like the "scale" of the early box. If the needle bearings don't help alot, than maybe I'll do the F1....
    Sam
     

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  12. mac3236
    Joined: May 3, 2009
    Posts: 20

    mac3236
    Member

    Needle bearings were used in 1936 and then Ford went back to the bronze bushings in 1937. I have torn down several 1936 Ford steering boxes where the needle bearings have worn into the shaft. It makes me think Ford had a problem with them or the shafts were not the proper hardness. I have rebuilt 1936 steerings and used brass bushings to eliminate the problem. A brass bushing with oil has virtually no drag. Also in my earlier post about using sealer where the the large cork gasket is from experience with leaks. And I used 250W oil in the box.
     
  13. any tricks to getting the sector shaft out of the housing? from what I have read, it should just push right out, but we have one that will not budge. any thoughts or advice?
     

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