Kingpin to kingpin, which year(s) were the narrowest? Buddy is trying to build a modified that will fit in the back of his Grumman stepvan.
'28-31, '32-36 are both just slightly over 36". Choice of spindle will also have some effect here, but I haven't gotten off my butt and completed my study on that. Oooops--not enough coffee before trying to read numbers. A deuce with a 36" axle would fall over when you slammed the door... '28-36 axles measure about 51 3/4", and are not the narrowest---1937-41 are about an inch less than that. I think use of earlier spindles on that axle would be the narrowest USA Ford setup. Street rod axles are a bit narrower.
Narrow any one of them to the dimension that's needed by removing a piece from the center. Gusset the center where you weld it back together and rework the ends from the wishbone out to return to the correct camber. Piece of cake. I've done it.
[ QUOTE ] Narrow any one of them to the dimension that's needed by removing a piece from the center. Gusset the center where you weld it back together and rework the ends from the wishbone out to return to the correct camber. Piece of cake. I've done it. [/ QUOTE ] What is the best way to cut the I-beam, torch, plasma cutter or cut off saw??? Thanks for the help.
I start by tracing the curve of the uncut axle on a piece of template paper. Then I cut the desired amount from it using a Portaband....if I need to narrow it 6" I'll find the axle centerline and remove 3" from either side of that line. Bevel the top and bottom flanges and the web front and rear with a grinder to get as much penetration as possible. Lay the axle back on the template to keep the same arc (curve) as before the cut and tack weld with 7018. Weld (7018) the bevels and finish with a grinder and sanding disc. This will change the camber angle and requires that you re-shape the ends from the perch pins outward. Here's a sketch of the gussets I add to the center. The strength of an I-beam is in the web.
[ QUOTE ] I start by tracing the curve of the uncut axle on a piece of template paper. Then I cut the desired amount from it using a Portaband....if I need to narrow it 6" I'll find the axle centerline and remove 3" from either side of that line. Bevel the top and bottom flanges and the web front and rear with a grinder to get as much penetration as possible. Lay the axle back on the template to keep the same arc (curve) as before the cut and tack weld with 7018. Weld (7018) the bevels and finish with a grinder and sanding disc. This will change the camber angle and requires that you re-shape the ends from the perch pins outward. Here's a sketch of the gussets I add to the center. The strength of an I-beam is in the web. [/ QUOTE ] Probably for another post but how do you reshape the ends?
hotrodsnguns....I use a setup like this. An I-beam, chain, and a bottle jack. A little heat doesn't hurt if you don't overdo it.
[ QUOTE ] If you can find an English Ford from the 1930's they are REAL narrow! [/ QUOTE ] True. Try looking for the axle from an Anglia. These are very narrow indeed, as is the axle from a Model Y.
This Vintage Chassis Works axle isn't an I-beam, but we could make one of these for you in any width you want. (The upper picture shows them as they are made, and below that is one that I polished.) The standard widths are 45", 46", 47", and 48 1/2", and cost $229 plus $25 shipping to anywhere in the US. Any narrower widths should be no problem. If you want to follow up on this, please call me at (602) 233-8400. There's more information about these axles as well as Chassis Engineering forged I-beam axles and the axle dropping and polishing services that I offer at http://www.roadsters.com/axles/ Dave http://www.roadsters.com/
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