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Hot Rods What external clutch slave

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by model A hooligan, Mar 26, 2018.

  1. doing a Muncie conversion on my coupe,gathering the parts. Going to be running a wilwood pedal setup,what external slave should I use?

    Looking for something affordable that uses the standard in erred flare,3/8 fittting preferred. Something off a production car maybe? And something I can bolt to a bracket off the clutch bell.

    Maybe even a hydro throwout bearing due to clutch fork may interfere with floor.
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2018
  2. Boneyard51
    Joined: Dec 10, 2017
    Posts: 2,452


    Try one off sixties Ford pickups and big trucks. Easy to rebuild, good mounting brackets. Bones
  3. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 2,856


    Why not a matching Wilwood slave cylinder. My 60 Ford pickup had one that worked well.
    scrap metal 48 likes this.
  4. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,514


    Have an early 60's Chevy truck on mine, they are available and reasonably priced.
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  5. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,419

    rusty rocket

    I used a wilwood pull type slave from speedway. Went thru three but the first two were f.u..b.a.r.ed because of my shity setup. after I rebuilt the bracket to get a straight pull I havent had a problem.(knock on wood)
  6. Because I don't want to pay that much for a part I can't easily replace if I needed another. I'd like something that came on a vehicle

    But looking at the space I have I may have to use a hydro throwout which I really don't want to do
  7. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,514


    Here's a pic of mine, using Ansen pedal set-up.

    Attached Files:

    alanp561 and scrap metal 48 like this.
  8. dodge35
    Joined: Feb 9, 2010
    Posts: 67

    from kentucky

    Check out Novak Conversions, has the complete setup.
    gimpyshotrods likes this.
  9. speedshifter
    Joined: Mar 3, 2008
    Posts: 115


    I did research on bore diameters on oem hyd clutches with external slave cyls All I checked used same bore size on master cyl & slave cyl . ( 1'' stroke of mast cyl will give 1'' stroke of slave cyl). Parts house should have catalog giving bore size of both mast cyls & slave cyls. Greg
  10. Dennis D
    Joined: May 2, 2009
    Posts: 545

    Dennis D

    Pic of my setup. Speedway slave. D

    Attached Files:

    Poh, Chiss and scrap metal 48 like this.
  11. evintho
    Joined: May 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,179


    vtx1800 likes this.
  12. You do know that since all the OEM slaves are large bore and the typical Wilwood clutch master is a small bore; they won't play nice together.
    zzford and scrap metal 48 like this.
  13. mkubacak
    Joined: Jun 20, 2005
    Posts: 75


  14. catdad49
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 3,514


    The above slave from Auto Zone is the one on my A, works great.
  15. My wilwood master is 3/4

    After getting the old trans out today and putting the bell on,I'm pretty sure I can't use a clutch for at all. So I guess I'll ha e to go the hydro bearing. Really didn't want to do that.

    I do still need a slave cylinder for another car I'm working on. I'll check out the 62 pickup on. Thanks for the tip
    catdad49 likes this.
  16. Anyone got a tip for a PULL type slave? Was thinking since I don't have room on the driver side I could cut out the bell on the passenger side and just run my clutch for out that side. But seeing as the starter is there I think I'd need to run a pull type slave cylinder and mount it behind the fork
  17. Early 60's chevy truck had a slave on the passenger side, I think it is still under my bench , maybe.
  18. I used a Speedway 7/8" push slave in my Ford with a Wilwood 3/4" master. Works great.
  19. no55mad
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,796

    from nipomo, ca

    ^^^^What bobss396 said. Used a 1" master for more travel at the slave due to a longer than normal fork that was needed. Little harder clutch pedal pressure required but not bad. Remember the old hp clutches from the earlier days, not that much pressure required but it brought back some memories. Went to this set up because of a leaky hyd to bearing; common problem and lots of posts here on the subject. Got to pull the trans to repair a leaky hyd to bearing, external slave way more user friendly!
    ace5043 likes this.
  20. The Speedway slave IIRC has an advertised travel of 1.25". To get my clutch released took maybe all of 1". You have to look for things in the linkage path that will suck up unnecessary play and yield no movement.
    34toddster likes this.
  21. I may just go with the speedway hydraulic throwout bearing. So I can drop the driver side footwell to get my huge feet to fit a little better. Then I don't have to worry about the floor hitting the fork.

    Just really stuck right now trying to find a long pilot bushing so I can't get anymore done for a bit
  22. Anyone run a speedway hydro bearing? It looks like the hydraulic bearing is the only way this is going to fit
    39poncho likes this.
  23. I would tend to go with a stock car piece. These are battle-tested and I'd trust it over something unknown. Maybe they are pretty good, look at the reviews before you buy. I'm dodging the bullet with my Speedway external slave and I do have a leak somewhere in the system I just discovered. Have to crawl under for a look.
  24. 4b316
    Joined: Oct 8, 2011
    Posts: 52

    from ny

    We used a Howe hyd.setup on our asphalt late model along with their master.pretty sure it use adjustable post to set length of bearing clearance.Once we got it setup and bled never bothered with it again
    Poh likes this.
  25. I'm not sure what a 'stock car piece' is, I have no idea what they run. I'm assume something expensive!

    Yeah I've been trying to find reviews but so far I don't see much info on anything besides the super out of my budget mckloud bearing. Seems like the little info I have found on the speedway and Howe all seem to be not so great. Don't think I can afford anything else so I may have to cut a window in the passenger side of the bell.really don't want to do that but I don't want a hydro bearing that leaves me stranded
  26. We used Quarter Master and Howe TO bearings and they always held up, that was 30 years ago. Give the Speedway brand a shot, look at Summit too. How about an old Chevy truck bellhousing? The window on those was on the passenger side.
  27. Truck bellhousing has a bigger bearing retainer hole. Should not rely on the 4 mounting bolts alone for trans centering. Going to stick with my aluminum car housing.

    Here's my thoughts,I see RAM makes a 150$ kit that has a bearing with better placement of the fittings than the speedway,has a little be longer throw in the bearing,and is made in USA. So I think the 53$ more may be worth it to try the RAM.

    Glad to hear you had good luck do with hydro bearings. I sure have heard a lot of mixed info on them.
  28. boutlaw
    Joined: Apr 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,190


    The FE in my coupe took up so much space that the clutch arm had to be shortened to clear frame rails. I used an ECI clutch/brake under dash assy and initially a wilwood slave. After a year the slave started leaking because the mount had the slave pulling slightly crooked. I rebuilt with new seals and in the interim installed a Speedway slave and readjusted mount. The Speedway unit is still installed with the rebuilt slave still hanging on the wall for backup. I wanted to avoid a hyd throw out bearing at all costs after reading all the horror stories about leakage, but apparently a lot of guys have had good luck with hyd TO bearings. I was just not convinced. Good luck.
    ace5043 likes this.
  29. I don't want to either. But like I had said. I don't have a choice. Im Heavily chopped,with channel. And it's a 29 on top of that. Being so small I HAVE to drop my floor down between the frame in the driver footwell section to be able to operate the pedals. It was hard enough using the brake before, but now that I'm adding another pedal,there's no way around dropping the floor down which will hit my clutch fork anyway you look at it.

    I'm really not so keen on cutting the bell on the other side,then having to buy a tap for the stud,buy a clutch fork,then make brackets for a slave that I need to buy also. Yes it's easier to service,but seems like a total pain and way more parts obtain/make.
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2018
  30. Anyone on here want to help me weight the pros and cons?

    Ram hydro bearing is around 150$. Cons are,it could leak like the horror stories I've heard though I don't hear anything about ram. Maybe because theirs works?

    Or buying a tap/drill,clutchfork and slave cylinder,switching the fork to the passenger side and making a bracket to hold a external slave. I've heard they are slower in action,but I don't see how it would be noticeable on a street car.

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