The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by j hansen, May 3, 2020.
had Holley 600 professionally rebuilt
sits on mild 350 Chev
feels like a new engine now,runs great
I put it off and put it off but it appeared that the underdash wiring wasn't getting done on it's own so I wedged myself in the car and got to work. Actually I guess I should have said that I wedged myself in the car, struggled to get back out, and wedged myself back in about 20+ times. Funny how the "next thing" you need is always just out of reach!
Headlights and taillights to go and then it's time to see if I left any outlets for the smoke to get out.
Finally got the hood hinges where the work; then decided (after the stock one broke) to put a somewhat more modern hood latch on my '47. Trimmed out the latch plate and made a bracket for the Olds latch. Monday's project will be the catch loop.
Appeared to me the strut mounts were putting too much stress on the hood side flange, so I trimmed one edge of a piece of flat bar to follow the contour and bolted them in; took the unwanted flex out of the hood sides as I hoped they would.
Been working on getting the header panel on my '35 straighter; dropped it and some other junk at the blaster Monday; stuff was ready so I grabbed that on the way to the shop.
Kinda boring work; but it has to be done too. Think I'll try to get the dash painted next week; been putting it off since last fall or so.
4 hrs from mine so I’ll just ponder on my next step to do with it.
I JB weld almost everything the rest I use bubble gum.
Life is to short to do it right the first time
Kind of eyeballing with a piece of 1/2" I'm gonna have to move it over and down a bit but I hate having to cut up that aluminum toe board anymore than I have to
Sent from my moto z4 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
May be wrong; but it looks like the column sticks out past the firewall a ways; might be able to shorten it; which will improve your U-joint angles enough to eliminate the need to move it over.
I used a Weedeter bracket that holds the box closer to the frame; column is pretty much straight on.
I see that I'm not the only one that still uses a trouble light.
I'm going to try that first before I start hacking, I've taken out enough rivets to last a lifetime.
Maybe a "double" U-Joint? Maybe it would work, maybe not? Probably depends on the offset when seen in person, but the specs say up to 1" offset. Not cheap though!
Late last night I buttoned up the Headlight mounts (model A fender brackets to Model T headlights) the grill she'll isn't mounted and sitting a little crooked (it's not the lights)
I finished the drivers side interior panels for my 300.
Found a little meltage on #3
I took the newly purchase '48 down to have new tires installed. The white walls were painted on and had severe cracks and were just hideous. When we removed the baby moons we found nice spider caps. Don't know why, but what the hell.
New starter, new alternator, new battery, and now to start Operation ClusterF**k.
Cleaned it up. I drove it in the rain comming home from lunch.........
That's not an understatement....
My wiring always starts out nice and straight with wires running nice and parallel, but then it always somehow gets messy after I forget a wire or two here and there. So far though, the wiring job I posted about back in post #1652 is going pretty nicely, but then again I'm not quite finished. Wonder what I've forgotten or just wired wrong??
Good luck with your re-wiring!
I have purchased a wiring kit and a fire extinguisher ()and will start the rewire soon. All the lights and signals work so at least I have a good start, thank you for the nice words.
One of these days I know I'm going to have to break down and straighten out the rats nest under my dash. As long as it keeps working like it's supposed to I'm not inclined to dig into it, but it's a mess I know it really needs to be sorted.
Sounds like a good call, I have something draining the battery that I can't identify so I really don't have a choice and I have four switches that go somewhere/nowhere that need to go.
Good luck! Thats a tedious job, but somebody's got to do it.
That happened to me also, But after about 10 times I took the seat out. Still wasn't easy but it was easier.
Took our 56 Victoria to Donut Derelicts this morning and it became a “new” car on the way home....
Took the T Bird and my 10 year old son to "Jalopyrama" car show in Easton MD. Lots of fun, lots of great cars...
I sorted my rats' nest spaghetti bowl wiring under my roadster dash last summer. It was also draining the battery somewhere along the way.
Wasn't too bad. Once i got into it , it was kinda pleasant. Really glad i finally got it mostly done. Everything in the front and dash is redone nicely , but the tail light circuits still need attention.
You should try it in a T-bucket with aluminum bomber seats, had to put moving pads over the seats for cushion on the rolled aluminum edges , and lay upside down to re-wire. Getting up to get some stray tool or oart was a major effort!
The missus and I went to the Stray Kat 500 in Dewey, OK. Lots of sunshine and tons of old cars. We took the '37 Chevy coupe. It was 235 miles from home which is the longest out of town run for the car. Assuming it gets us home it has become my favorite car.
Wild guess , he’s your project inspector, right ?
Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Took my new coupe to its first car show. About an hour from my house, in West Point, Ca. It ran and drove perfectly. Whew......
That’s my buddy’s chopped, BBC powered ‘50 Buick in back.
Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks to me like a really thick chunk of foam rubber to go behind your head would have come in handy. Straining to hold my head up in just the right position while working overhead makes my neck and shoulders really sore.
Separate names with a comma.