Technical What did you do today?

One step closer.

 

I replaced a dead Studebaker V-8 with a 283 and glide in a buddy's '37 Dodge about 40 odd years ago, he later switched to a 350; then decided to redo the car 30 or so years ago and hit a standstill. He started working on it again maybe 5 years ago and cut the trans crossmember and engine mounts off when wanted a 700r4. Now he's back to a 350/350 so we welded some new mounts in and will fab a new trans mount crossmember in a couple days.
I was going to tease him about going Mopar driveline; but thought better, as I would actually like him to get this thing on the road again.

 

Bodywork OT DD pickup. Had the Ford white peeling problem on tailgate.

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19*, and took the Ro. for a ride in the snow. Got it sideways going over a hill, and 2 hours later, my feet are still cold.

 

You could have used chains I guess.

Bob

 

we have had nesting Palliated Woodpeckers in my yard over 20 years. View attachment 4197967 are big!

 

I got to do that when I was a kid too!!!

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Does she read the HAMB? Mine does....

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I got a OT similar vintage as yours, my 1969 Valiant.... The problem is, I just don't see it as a "old" car. It's the most reliable thing I own!!! Thank God I have it.

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I dropped the hammer on my new old car , a 63 1/2 Ford Galaxie hardtop. Rough old cob but good bones and they don't build them anymore.....

 

Made the trans mount for my friend's '37 Dodge and got a mill sitting in the chassis again. Hope this work gives him in boost in getting the car going again. Still have to haul it to the other garage to finish the welding with a real welder (can't understand why people don't run heavy enough electrical when they power a car guy garage).

He sent me a picture a while back and reminded me the down time was my fault; since it started when he went to install the NOS gas tank I found for him at the '79 Street Rod Nats.

I also managed to make a little progress on adapting 12" Buick brakes and finned drums to my '57 small brg 9" rear. Wonder why Koyo bearings came in a Timken box? Box doesn't look fake.

 

Yep, computers are wonderful things, until they aren't. Troubleshooting takes forever, because there isn't any point in going through the mechanical parts of the engine until it is certain that there is no problem in the computer system.
In this case, I have it narrowed to either the signalling for the fuel pump, or the actual pump itself.
The worst part in all this, is that I have managed to jam my thumb, so one of my hands is useless, so I am not working on anything until I get the pain under control.
Today, I have been doing some research on the new 9 inch rear end for the 55 Cameo. I am planning to stay with the stock springs, but I have been thinking about adding a sway bar, and I am looking at how to mount it.
Bob

 

If it has an alarm, look into that too... Those aweful contraptions can disable your car with no rhyme or reason....

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One my son and I built some years back, complete with lego man driver and an engine from a 57 chevy in his toy box We didnt win the race but it was a favorite as far as the look

 

I read up on that, and have already eliminated it as the culprit. I would like to disable the alarm, but haven't yet found a reliable way to do that.
Bob

 

Got the 1964 Mercury Parklane unstuck from my own yard. $75 bucks to the local tow service.
Hard to reconcile the Big Plans (convert to 2 dr, rebuild 390 to 445, convert to 4 speed, paint candy apple red) --with the reality- No talent bozo who got stuck in his own yard.

 

got my coupe back from paint shop
some clown reversed into it at a show last year
car 99 was the culprit

 

Cool lookin ole ride as is!

 

I soldered the top plate to the tube, it went surprisingly good, must have got it clean enough.

 

No set plans, but I have to do something on the projects this weekend. Bob

 

Tromped around the local junkyard for dome light ideas for my 37 Chevy but it was a muddy mess and everything had been exposed to the elements too long plus my back was killing me so I am back home with food on the grill and a beer in my hand.

 

Remember what I said about that 2-1/16" bi-metal holesaw maybe not being up to the task of cutting a couple of holes in 16-gauge stainless steel? Well, just barely. After the second hole, the holesaw teeth will need to be re-ground. Looks like I will be investing in that 3-3/8" diamond-tipped holesaw for the tachometer gauge opening.

 

You’re a couple steps ahead of me. I cut mine out today.



Just picked up a Lenox 2” bimetal hole saw to do the four smaller gauge holes. You think I should take it back? They had diamond tipped ones, thought those were for ceramics.



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I scored this tank at Decatur Tx swapmeet today for RPU project.

 

If your dash panel is stainless steel, take it back - for two reasons. First of all, you'll need a 2-1/16" hole saw, not a 2". The small gauges are just that much larger, by 1/16 of an inch. If you're only cutting one or two holes and the panel is more like 18 or 20 gauge, it might be worth it, but don't figure on having teeth on that saw after about two holes. That was my lesson learned today. I haven't found a 2-1/16" diamond-tipped hole saw yet, which is why I went with the bi-metal blade I already had used for cutting through 18-gauge sheet steel. But I have found a 3-3/8" diamond-tipped hole saw online, and I'll eventually put out five times the cost of a bi-metal blade for it. Don't know if I'll ever need to cut a hole in stainless again, but I already bought some 22-gauge stainless and will probably make a panel with two large and four or five small holes after cutting the panel to shape and engine turning the face. Keep posting on your gauge panel. I want to see how it turns out. I'll do the same.

 

The panel I’m making is .06” stainless.

I’m intentionally cutting the holes undersized. There seems to be too much runout in the hole saw to get the exact hole size. I was planing to cut them, then use my die grinder to get them to the correct size.

I started fooling around with a cratex rod on some scraps in my drill press. So far, pretty cool. I’m looking forward to turning the panel.



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Yesterday I went to the Big 3 with my youngest. For $190.00 I scored a milk crate full of Ford 94 carburetors. I didn't have time to do the whole thing....

Here are a couple of pics of some of the things we saw....

Today, back to work!!!! Boo!

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I understand now why you are cutting an undersized hole. Even with my well-worn 2-1/16" hole saw, I had to do some finish filing with a fine round file to clean up the hole enough to get a gauge to go through it. Stainless is HARD! My panel, too, is .06", or 16-gauge stainless. I found that spacing the 1/2" Cratex about .4" apart gave me the swirl pattern I liked most. Using a grid pattern to guide me helped a lot, but I still free-handed a little bit and it turned out acceptably. After I cut out the holes, I had a couple of nice, engine-turned rounds that I'll use to backface some knob or switch elsewhere, a bonus I hadn't counted on.

 

Looking at options, this looks like the ticket.

https://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/carbide-tipped-hole-cutters.aspx

Carbide tipped, supposed to be better for cutting stainless than bi-metal. Shallow cut depth, thinking maybe it’ll have less runout than a deep standard hole saw.

Bi-metal in stainless has to go slow, like 200 RPM, to keep from burning the teeth. Carbide should run about 1000 RPM. Lowest speed on my drill press is 750. Have to hit it with a lot of cutting oil, too, to keep it cool.



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