Bought this glovebox door off ebay and was covered with contact paper and it looks like someone took a grinder with 36 grit to it,so what can I use to fill them.
^^^^^^ I agree - hi-build primer & sand it down. If they're too bad, a skim coat of Rage Gold or similar fiberglass, then sand it down.
80 grit on a DA followed with 180 and see if/what scratches remain. If minor scratches remain repeat sanding and or apply 2 coats epoxy primer and block sand. Prime with 2 part primer before color. Use only primers with hardeners to avoid for the most part sand scratch swelling. Basically treat it as if it were an exterior panel.
I think I will try this since I would like to work on it in the basement or just cover it with rattle can primer and work on it when it warms up.
skim coat it with filler and sand with 2000 grit. Just enough to fill it in not an inch deep. Then shoot it with high build primer scuff with 4000grit and shoot it wth your favorite color.
As John said lacquer primer is a waste of time and money it will shrink and won't fill 36 grit scratches.
“Its made for a clock and an ashtray hard to find” Duh , I saw the neat little cut outs but made an ass of my self by “assuming” So it sure is worth some effort to get it done right.
Back in the mid 70’s cars would come in the shop with major hail dent damage. We would run a 9 inch grinder with 36 inch course disc over the roof panel /deck lid/hood to remove the dents. The 36 inch disc would heat the low spot and raise the dents out! Not to be an ass- the old cars could take a 36 grit pounding and be rectified by lacquer primer / paint ! Lived It. Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
$.02 More... I use 2K catalyzed primer, but here/there like to cover bare metal spot's, this stuff is at your Napa, about $8.00 decent build, an dries pretty quick if around 70°, Had real good luck with it, But definitely as mentioned hit that Baby with 80, an work your way down to 150, Use a etching primer first , SEM is a Good automotive grade, be mint...
If you don't let it gas out and your in a hurry sure it will do that. If it were a huge piece I wouldn't have suggested it. Like any product. Know how it behaves and work accordingly and there will be no problems.
Some of you are totally full of shit about high build primer (thickness). I see countless threads on here & web of "pros" with coat after coat after coat of high build and blocking in between...and then you are saying 36 grit scratches need proper filler? ..and don't BS that you don't.. Lmao..give me a break.. .
Wow I’m really surprised that your arms were long enough to run that 36 inch disc, and I’m wondering how you got the 9” grinder to handle it
I'd have to agree that a lick or two with 80, a bit of 150 and maybe some 220 and then start laying primer and blocking. I think the main issue is that too many of us have tried to do something like that too fast by laying on several coats without taking the time to let it set up properly or sanding between coats.
Just got my new to me air compressor up and running and will start working on it during the week,I am probably low on paper and if so it will not be until after friday before I can get to it. I know I do have some 220 grit but might be too fine but will look when I get home from work tomorrow and I hope I have something to work with.
Another option is to mix a small batch of epoxy primer and use a small disposable foam roller to apply it.
I'd skim it with Rage* filler, especially if it has waves or a ding. The stuff spreads like butter, sands even easier, it's stable and ready to go in a few minutes. Then you don't have to pile on paint. *Wonder if some poor guy was there with a sanding block and a sore arm when they were developing this stuff. "Hey George, how was that one?" "Huh, huh, huh, not bad, huh huh." "Hmm, well this time let's try adding more of A and leave out C, and mud the quarter again. Take 10 George."