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Technical What are you working on?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Lloyd's paint & glass, Jul 18, 2022.

  1. Working on a 51 216 trying to get it to run. No spark led me to pull the distributor as it was not getting any power. It had been doctored up by someone in the past when the insulator for the primary feed was replaced with some rubber item and a piece of plastic. Temporary fix at best. Dismantled it all and gave it a good cleaning. Used a Mallory connector from a leftover distributor I had hanging around to provide an insulated connection. Turned out well. Now we will see if it fixes one of the issues with this old truck.
    51 dist.jpg 51 dist 2.jpg
     
  2. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,339

    choptop40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Got the steel dash panel all fabbed up and looking good. Gauge layout as I see it .. Got a fast ratio Borgeson manual steering box. Next mockup steering colymn to box.. Fun fun fun… C6834242-8634-4F72-9B2C-CB86E082473A.jpeg
     
  3. fastcar1953
    Joined: Oct 23, 2009
    Posts: 3,719

    fastcar1953
    Member

    Turn signal wiring on 63 nova.
     
    saltflats likes this.
  4. chevyfordman
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,382

    chevyfordman
    Member

    Finished up making some new air cleaners for my roadster. IMG_2188.jpeg
     
  5. Completed the rebuild on the 216 distributor. Time to see if it helps make it run.
    51 dist done.jpg
     
  6. Working on my 68 top loader. It is a mess so I built some wood covers for it and will hit it with some black beauty this morning followed by some fresh paint.
    T150 case.jpg

    And, I got the top plate apart waiting for new forks so I bead blasted it and got it into some fresh paint
    T150 top cover done.jpg
     
  7. lumpy 63
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 2,699

    lumpy 63
    Member

    Picked up an old Sun 400 distributor machine, I've been picking Moriarty's brain about getting it up and functioning. Mark was even nice enough to send me a missing crank handle. Pulled it apart yesterday and found these crusty batteries in it, after replacing them it seems to be working. Going to finish cleaning it and test all the functions 20240512_173328.jpg 20240504_083816.jpg
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 56,414

    squirrel
    Member

  9. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,850

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

  10. atch
    Joined: Sep 3, 2002
    Posts: 5,696

    atch
    Member

    I hope it works as good as it looks. That's quite an improvement.
     
  11. Blasted that T150 case and then primed it. Ready for some black paint.
    t150 case primed.jpg
     
  12. patsurf
    Joined: Jan 18, 2018
    Posts: 1,103

    patsurf

    looks like it came out of a nos box!
     
  13. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,339

    choptop40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Hood unbolted , now I can reach in and get a better visual ....For radiator clearance / better weight distribution going to move the engine back 6 inches....Fabricate mounts ....next go pickup the low mile Chevelle 400 Turbo trans I put a deposit on a while back..... 121A7D4E-D3D9-48D8-B644-B782EBDFE3EE.jpeg F7904214-B499-4301-A20A-DEBAF13F8830.jpeg
     
  14. Von Mac, is it the camera angle or is the fan going to be real low on the radiator?
     
  15. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,731

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Haven't been in my shop in quite some time and was starting to think I'd never get out there again. @Zax offered to make the 2-hour trip from Atlanta last Saturday and help me get organized and back on track. It was nice to have a fresh set of eyes looking at what I'm trying to do. One of the things that was bothering me was how to make the seat work for the A RPU. We stripped it down and started measuring. Before long, the body was where it was supposed to be, and the floor had holes located for the seat. We determined that I needed 4-inches taken out of the height of the seat back, so yesterday I cut and fit. Today, it all got welded back together and it sits exactly where it's supposed to. It may not seem like much, but progress is being made thanks to the kindness of a fellow HAMBster. Thank you, @Zax.Edit: Computer won't let me post pics.
     
    raven, mad mikey, pila38 and 9 others like this.
  16. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,339

    choptop40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    vtwhead , more of the angle..yet to determine fan size.. gonna notch frame on setback to keep stock mechanical fuel pump ..
     
  17. We just installed a Zipper unit on a sbc in a 31 to solve the height issue. Looks like it will work out ok
     
    loudbang likes this.
  18. choptop40
    Joined: Dec 23, 2009
    Posts: 5,339

    choptop40
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for the input...Just googled it...Those zipper kits are great..Pics ?
     
  19. High test 63
    Joined: May 8, 2020
    Posts: 433

    High test 63
    Member

    Alan,
    Glad to hear you're making some headway on your rpu!
    A tip of the cap to @Zax for stepping up to help a fellow HAMB'er!
    I hope you are feeling well enough to keep at it Alan.
     
  20. Johnny Gee
    Joined: Dec 3, 2009
    Posts: 12,850

    Johnny Gee
    Member
    from Downey, Ca

    Too funny IMG_2751.jpeg
     
  21. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 4,731

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

     
  22. Zax
    Joined: May 21, 2017
    Posts: 667

    Zax
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 1952-59 Ford Social Group


    You're welcome. It was nice to see your shop and projects and work on someone else's car for a change.

    Finally got my wheels back from the powder coater today, so hopefully I can start making progress on my 40 again
     
  23. Von Mac, that engine is all torn down at the moment for the final rebuild so no pics at the moment.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  24. duecesteve
    Joined: Nov 3, 2010
    Posts: 470

    duecesteve
    Member

    I'd rather do body work than electrical,I hate chasing wires, I'd rather paint.
     
  25. Zax
    Joined: May 21, 2017
    Posts: 667

    Zax
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 1952-59 Ford Social Group

    My '40 Ford is finally back on all 4 tires after almost 2 months up on jackstands. Yesterday I got my wheels back from being blasted and powder coated and today I got the new tires mounted and balanced. Sorry about the pics, hard to get a good shot in the cramped garage (more on that if you read to the end)

    IMG_2662.jpg IMG_2663.jpg IMG_2664.jpg

    It took a couple tries to get it started after not being started for almost 2 months. It usually starts up right away. But I usually start it at least once a week. After it warmed up I went to put it in gear to back out of the garage and the clutch went to almost the floor before I got any resistance. So I pushed the pedal several more times and it feels like I have 3 inches of dead pedal before the clutch engages now. Clutch was working just fine before all the recent work I did. So I got my flashlight and started looking the the linkage and everything looked normal. I can't figure out how the work I did could possibly cause the clutch to get so far out of adjustment. Below is a list of things I did, if anyone has any ideas how I managed to mess up the clutch with the work I did let me know. I'm stumped.

    I started this last project to replace the braking system. My 40 had a badly done disc brake conversion on the front when I bought it. I did some work in the past to get it right, but I was never really happy with it. So I tore everything out and went with new factory spec hard brake lines and master cylinder, and 53 f100 front drums. I used the Speedway kit for the f100 drum swap. The only part of the braking system I did not replace was the rear brakes from the wheel cylinder to drum, because I had already rebuilt those. Replacing the brake line that runs from the front left wheel to front right required removing the lower radiator hoses, fan, and inner fender brace, snaking the new hard line through, and putting it all back. I adjusted the free play between the master cylinder and pedal rod to 1/8 inch.

    I removed the 30 year old 6:00 x 16 tires, found two of my rims were really pitted inside and had to search for a couple replacements. Found a couple and sent the 4 best ones to the powder coater. I purchased new DiamondBack tires, 5:50 x 16 front and 7:00 x 16 rear. The car has a nice rake to it now.

    Those should be the only things done between clutch working fine and clutch not working fine. It was probably in gear the entire time it was up on jackstands if that could be a factor.
     
  26. Zax
    Joined: May 21, 2017
    Posts: 667

    Zax
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. 1952-59 Ford Social Group

    After thinking on it a couple hours I think the most likely scenario is the the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel with surface rust thanks to the humidity we have here in the southeast. I'll dig into it this weekend
     
  27. Here are the zoomie headers I made over the winter basically out of stuff, junk I had laying around. New look for the coupe this year, stickers on the front sides, gone, new front tires, and the white wall RADIR slicks are going back on for a while. Yea it is loud and sounds very radical, the way a real hot rod should be.:D WIN_20240517_17_39_59_Pro.jpg WIN_20240517_17_37_17_Pro.jpg WIN_20240517_17_38_57_Pro.jpg
     
  28. Love it,@mad mikey !
    Planning on some street miles?
     
    hrm2k and mad mikey like this.
  29. lumpy 63
    Joined: Aug 2, 2010
    Posts: 2,699

    lumpy 63
    Member

    20240517_172120.jpg 20240517_172112.jpg Past the point of no return on the Sun machine. It's actually working out pretty well.
     
  30. That is the plan Steve. NSRA York in less then 2 weeks. I think I am ready, need it to stop raining every other day.;)
     

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