Event Coverage What are YOU doing to get ready for the 2015 Meltdown Drags?

I have a narrowing jig also and one pair of the bushings says Mopar /Olds
Now I am not sure if that is for the early Olds or not.

 

My jig is not to narrow but to attach all the suspension brackets on it in the correct place I had to build it when I was racing my 59 Chevy station wagon I used a 9" should have used a Chrysler as the 9" didn't hold up either lol it lasted longer than the Chevy but wasn't bulletproof

 

I under stand now.
That well be handy when the time comes.

 

James-

Fabcraft is the place for all your olds/Pontiac rear end needs. Great guys and experts on those rear ends.

 

The 409 only has a 3.500" stroke, so it wants to be a wonder, not a "torquer" as the old timers call them. The problem was the extremely heavy piston/pin/ring weights like to pull the factory peanut butter rods apart before the peak rpm was reached. The other rpm limiter was crappy to moderate cylinder head capabilities, as well as intake manifolding. If the engine is limited in the induction, so it is in the rpm rang it will operate in. You can only somewhat bandaid the induction with the cam timing. You already run descent for what you have. Do you wanna run pump gas, or race gas? You gonna stay with iron heads, or get some Edelbrocks? Are you gonna run your existing cam, or?

 

PS. Put a Dana 60 in it. They come in GM trucks, you can get a 9310 Nickel gear set that'll live better than the 8620's only available for 9.3 Pontiac/Olds rears, & you can get the whole thing from Strange Engineering with brakes, for less than a nice 9" center section costs.

 

PPS. Pretty sure they put Dana 60's in Hemi cars in '64, so no one can bust your era correct balls either!

 

I personally don't know, but if FabCraft has nickel gears, that would be cool, but I bet a properly prepared 9.3 cost more than a well optioned Dana 60.

 

Ric I am going to start with a clean slate.
Truck block
409 crank thinking knife edged
new roller cam
Big block rods
I have a nice set of 690 heads on it now but have the 5?? (don't know the numbers) to play with or can go with the aluminum offerings
For induction I have the stack injection that Joe was working on
Going for race gas
4 speed

 

Ric - on the discussion of stroking a crank, I get confused. If someone says 1/2" stoker, is the crank throw 1/2" longer? If so does this make for 1" of extra piston travel? 1/2" at the top and 1/2" at the bottom?

 

Tony, that terminology is used when the stroke has been increased a certain amount over the stock stroke for a given engine. If a guy had a 426 Hemi (3.750 stroke), and he changed the crank to a "1/2 inch striker", the final stroke is 4.250 (3.750 + .500 = 4.250) Likewise, if he said he had a "1/4 inch striker, it would be a 4.000 stroke crank.

 

PS. Tony, your new engine has a stroke that is .624 (4.530), more than stock (3.906). We'll round that off .001, and call it a "5/8 Stroker".

 

Ok on the math but that means the piston will travel 2x the new added stoke?

 

I think those injectors' are 2.5"? If you have someone good who can get the 690 heads to flow in the 310 + cfm range @ .600-.650 lift, you should be able to make some where in the mid 600hp range @ around 7000-7500rpm. Think we can get you around 13-13.5 Cr. There are racey rings @ 4.320-4.325, then again @ 4.345-4.355 & once again @ 4.370-4.400. I personally would offset grind the crank & stroke it. If you have to grind it any way, you could probably increase the stroke to 3.580-3.600. Take the journal from 2.200 to 2.100 (small block Chevy), you'll also decrease bearing speed, and lighten the big end of the rod. Use a commonly available 6.125 rod (I might have a set, then you keep the rod ratio @ 1.7 & get a liter .927 wrist pin, instead of the heavier .990. Just get some good bolts ot studs for the mains. Get a crank scraper from Crankscraper.com & see if you can adapt a "Diamond stripper windage tray from Milodon. Use 11/32 stem valves to liten them a bit and increase flow. I would use a modern hydraulic roller from Isky, or Bullet, but you MUST use Morel, short travel hyd. roller lifters, they are ALL hand built, and pressure tested! Get them with the easy roll bushing instead of needle bearings, set them at zero lash, to the push rod cup, & they will rev as high as you dare take that thing and will last a long time. The hyd. roller uses less spring pressure (140/380), and will free up some resistance & hp/tq. Without having to run lash, the rocker arm is kinder to the valve stem tip. Cam should be in the 260-270 @ .050 range & .650-.700", I'd go 108-109 degree L/C, & put the intake lobe in at 100-103 (6-8 degrees advanced), that will still help the moderate to smaller stroke make some descent torque, which will probably peak in this upper 5000 rpm range. Get some good thick wall (.120) push rods from Manton/Smith Bros./Trend/Manley etc. 3/8 dia. if they'll fit. Use a good stainless rocker from Crower, they are trouble free, and see if you can get a minimum 1 7/8 header,(2.00 would be better). You should be able to make between 1.5-1.6hp per inch. About the stroke increase I suggested, its about a 12 cubic inch increase, and at 1.5hp per inch, that's an additional 18hp, not to mention the added torque.

 

Your able to stuff all that extra stroke in your new ( goody bag ) infant sock?=

 

New socks are on order

 

Ran into the Phantom 409 55 Chevy at the Terrace Bay event. Cool car, great guy. They were running their "street: motor to the tune of low 11's. They had blown up the big stroker motor (472 ??). The key to the builds (so I was told) were the Edelbrock heads. Very very cool car... especially with the 409 in it.

 

Norb it was great hanging with you up at Jefferson Saturday! It was cool seeing AJ, Mopar Bob, Mike & Jay...!
On a side note seen a guy selling a M/T SBC Crossram intake for $1800...! had to look at it 3 times to make sure I read that right...! I'm like what is a M/T SBF intake with carbs, air cleaners & linkage worth?
Jimbo...

 

I would think the Ford Cross ram intake is even more rare than the Chevy ?

Yes we had a good day, weather was perfect.

Found that both Bob and AJ really bleed Mopar.

Thanks Mike for schooling me on the old Cragar 5 spoke wheels I bought.

Scott your ears must have been ringing, your name came up several times. ( all good )

 

I'm pretty sure AJ poops Hemi orange Pentastars.

 

I got some parts for the Valiant

 

Nice wavy axle I have plans for one on my winter tear down

 

Speaking of axles and 409's, I put together my straight axle I've had for damn near 2 years now. Still waiting my turn to get a new frame built for the J but at least this axle will be ready to go. Slipped the Fenton Gyros on to measure it up to make sure I measured right in the first place, it was right on so that was good.



I also did some trading and ended up with this 4x2 348/409 intake but I don't own a 409 ...ha ha ha

 

Nice Hot Rod/Rat Rod hardware, but I sure wouldn't try to make any serious HP, with it. Those aren't carburetors, they're"vacuum leaks"!

 

Hey Norb!

Funny you should mention that.....Cause I think I might have sold the car tonight!


Scott

 

Made some progress today with switching flywheels out! Had help from my youngest brother Chris, he was like how'd you do this by yourself...! LOL... Got as far as getting the steel flywheel & scatter shield back on. Hope to get trans slipped back in tomorrow after work & it will be all downhill after that! I HOPE...!
Jimbo...

 

Seriously?

 

Wow

Roller or complete car ?

We get to watch a Mustang Fastback Build ? ( The Horny Pony )

 

lately its been DPCD logos, lol

 

At this point it looks like it,but it's still a big maybe.

A buddy wants it BAD,and wants it with last year's drivetrain setup.
We're still a bit apart on price,and what does or does not go with the car.

At this point I'm very close to selling so I can get going on the A/FX car though.....Which,by the way RJ,I will be down to pick up as soon as I can,but it's looking like springtime.

Scott