The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Mindover, Jun 5, 2011.
Thanks guys. I have a long way to go yet in making this body. The offer I had of the loan of the front half of a '27 body has gone because he has sold the car so I am looking for a firewall again to copy.(anyone got one for sale or to lend me) I have plenty to get on with in the meantime!.
Great work & good to hear that you've fired up the engine. Can't you get some dimensions off Tony's car??
Fantastic! Another Mindover thread. Looking good already.
beautiful work man..
Bob, I can measure Tony's car but its all in one piece so hard to take patterns from the firewall with the steering and engine in place. I need to have an original firewall so I can get the dimensions spot on. Its a pity you are the other side of the bloody world or I could borrow yours. I am sure I will get my hands on one before too long.
The engine ran really well fired right up once we got the leads in the right order.
Hasty & ElKaMiNo Kid
That's what I was talking about David!! The quater looks great!!! I can't wait to see how you do the inner structure on the body.
Jeff the plan is to do it as close to the original as possible.
David...Place the engine in the frame first, considering the finality of the front crossmember...Consider the radiator, (most '27 Hiboys have the radiator in front of the crossmember, an unfortunate afterthought)
The stock '27 T firewall juts forward 2", I know it's an integral part of "twenty seven cosmetics" but relented to a nice aluminum one (braked and shaped) so as to be able to use a full hood without the car looking like Cyrano!
I have built 3 of these, and am working on a fourth. (my previous one was stolen, along with other cars and many parts)
I urge you to look up a '27 Highboy that was featured in Hot Rod Magazine in 1958. The car was from St. Louis, MO. and the title of the article was "A Flivver No More".
Car had perfect proportions, and sported a nickle plated '27 shell. The '32 frame horns were replaced with shorter Model A horns...(I would have kept the '32s, but it was clean nevertheless)
Your frame rear kickup is as mine I did 3 years ago, when my shop is finished out back I'll finish the car. (also doing a '27 T Touring (on '32 rails)
im a huge fan of T;s, speedsters etc.. 27t on 32ish rails is always a good looking ride to me.. much respect and i think you have more people watching your thread than you may think. there is a lot of shy hambers, i know shy, and hamb, hot rod.. odd..
Only found this now - I've been missing out.... Nice work (as always) David!
Hi Dave - I'm doing another '27... is there space here to take patterns?
Otherwise the body needs to come off for some repairs before paint early next year - after I've cobbled up a bonnet...
Hi Mike thanks for the advice, I did a search for the car you mentioned but could not find anything. Do you have any pics?. I figure that with the flathead in the car and the firewall in the same position as the original I should have no problems with clearances and putting the radiator in the correct place. That said The reason I have now started on the body is so I can put this in place and mock everything up before I make the chassis too final. Like I said please post some photos of the car you mentioned that was featured in hot rod Mag in '58. I would also be interested in seeing any photos you have of the twenty sevens you built.
Chris (Jipp) Thanks for the words of encouragement.
Barry Hi Barry, hope alls well with you. Thanks!. Working on the body but I have little time and no time to upload any photos at the moment. I will as soon as possible.
I got a bit more done today. I worked on the rear quarter and it should be in one piece with a couple of hours work Monday so I will post some photos then. Glen came over and he stripped the front end down and is taking the drums for further stripping ready to be blasted and rebuilt. The engine and 'box are ready to come out he should have the rest of the donor car stripped Friday when he comes over next.
Thanks Phil, I will take you up on the offer when you take the body off if I don't come up with something before that.
Here is the rear quarter, in this photo I had put the swage (bead) into the panel. I made this section in one piece because The wheel well area will need a weld somewhere and I did not like the idea of a joint in the section between the bead and the wheel-well.
IMG 0865 by Mindover posted Dec 5, 2011 at 2:07 PM
Here is another shot of the quarter...
IMG 0864 by Mindover posted Dec 5, 2011 at 2:07 PM
This is the section at the front top of the turtledeck quarter panel. This is a double reverse- actually this thing curves in every direction...
IMG 0896 by Mindover posted Dec 5, 2011 at 2:07 PM
Cheers cactus1. I welded the section shown above to the rest of the top section then welded this to the side section. I use gas welding for almost all my panel work.
IMG 0905 by Mindover posted Dec 5, 2011 at 2:07 PM
In the photo above the welding has been done but not dressed out.
I clamped the rear quarter to an old 'Bun' panel just to see how it matched up...
IMG 0903 by Mindover posted Dec 5, 2011 at 2:07 PM
Next I need to dress this out and tidy all the flanges then weldi in the wheel house piece.
IMG 0903 by Mindover posted Dec 5, 2011 at 2:07 PM
That'll look mint when it's all planished out and smooth. Do you go with long welds or do you jump around with stich welds until it's fully welded?
If you look at the weld you can see that the HAZ is quite narrow and very even, this keeps the distortion down because its uneven heating rather than the heat, that causes distortion. I did this as one continuous weld.
Here is the rear quarter well on the way to being dressed out, only a few minor imperfections left to deal with.
IMG 0907 by Mindover posted Dec 5, 2011 at 7:39 PM
Hi David your quarter panel is lookin great! Did you get much 'pull' travelling out onto the flatter area in the front of the panel?
Quarter looks great. How did you put the bead in around the wheelwell? Pullmax?
I used a Pullmax for the bead, I had no problem with pulling in the flatter area at the front of the panel but it did cause some in the rear part. That is why I had to dress that area. I will try a different method for the other side.
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