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Customs What after market steering col to use in 40 Ford Coup???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Steve Fritz, Oct 31, 2014.

  1. Steve Fritz
    Joined: Jan 31, 2009
    Posts: 35

    Steve Fritz
    Member
    from wisconsin

    I am about ready to decide on the steering column on my 40 Ford coup project.
    Here is a recap of what I am working on:

    40 Ford coup
    302 Ford engine with C4 trans
    already replace all floor sheet metal
    set back the lower part of the firewall approx 3-4 inches for 302 engine clearance.
    using Chassis Engineering front IFS , transmission kit and 66 Mustang rear end.
    Would like to use the existing original front seat and just have it reupolstered.
    I need to decide to go with either the column shift lever or go floor mounted. My preference would be the column shift set up. Looks like benefits and draw backs on each way. Is there enough room to even use the column shift ? Distance between dash and steering wheel looks tight!
    If column mounted, what length to order? Does the shift linkage to the transmission pose a problem? Does the LOKAR rod kit work out well?

    Guess I would like some comments or feedback from guys who have used a column shift set up. What column did you use , length, fit problems, linkage , etc etc

    Thanks in advance for any help!

    Steve
     
  2. Weasel
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 6,698

    Weasel
    Member

    Limeworks or Juliano's. If you want tilt use Tri-C Engineerings adjustable column drop.
     
  3. Gerry Moe
    Joined: Jan 29, 2006
    Posts: 498

    Gerry Moe
    Member

  4. Original always look good. Hobby air, interiors+ 030.JPG
     
    PONTNAK123 likes this.

  5. With a little work,you can use the column. I like the 67-72 chevy pickup. You can get a cable from a front wheel drive GM shifter. Get every thing. I used the 83 van col cause it was cheap. Hooked the cable to the trans and ran cable to right side of shifter. Used a bracket from donor car and it all worked. Would like to go back and change to the 67-72 pu.
     
  6. Limeworks or original. HRP
     
  7. Imwalkin
    Joined: Jul 29, 2004
    Posts: 544

    Imwalkin
    Member
    from Tucson, Az

    I would use a lime works column and shifter. Very nice set up.
     
  8. mj40's
    Joined: Dec 11, 2008
    Posts: 3,303

    mj40's
    Member

    I have to go with D.Conrad, nothing better looking. You don't need no stinking tilt.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,079

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    I agree with above^^^ poster...
     
  10. olscrounger
    Joined: Feb 23, 2008
    Posts: 4,774

    olscrounger
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Stocker works great with column shift if you already have it--no big deal to modify and add a detent plate as well. Can make the stock horn button work too.
     
  11. cvstl
    Joined: Apr 15, 2009
    Posts: 1,503

    cvstl
    Member
    from StL MO
    1. H.A.M.B. Chapel

  12. For pete's sake, don't use a 70's-80's GM column; nothing dates a car's interior MORE! (Not to mention the fact they are hardly traditional) And there are still way too many of them out there; left-overs from the '90's fad.....
     
  13. If it were mine, I'd have an original style column.
    Wouldn't even consider a modern tilt!
     
  14. 40Vert
    Joined: Jun 10, 2006
    Posts: 679

    40Vert
    Member

    I have a Limeworks 33" column in my 40 (flathead/5 spd). Very nice column.

    If you want column shift, Limeworks has an add on that also works well.It comes with the linkage:

    http://limeworksspeedshop.myshopify...ety-shifter-complete-kit-for-350-transmission

    Also, I have used the Kugel shift arm kit on previous 40 Fords and they work well for me, haven't tried Lokar's.

    Finally, if you have the original column, it can be converted to use a modern steering box either by cutting off the original box and machining a Double-D pattern on the shaft and machining of a lower collar and bushing or Weedetr has a kit for $145 that includes a new shaft and hardware: http://w.ivenue.com/WEEDETR/ecommerce/steering/axle-steering/early-ford-steering-shaft-kit-1940.html

    I haven't used Weedetr's kit, but have used a lot of their suspension components and their stuff is top notch.
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2014
  15. Steve Fritz
    Joined: Jan 31, 2009
    Posts: 35

    Steve Fritz
    Member
    from wisconsin

    Thanks for all of your feedback.....now I am leaning toward using the original steering column and using one of the LIMEWORKS kits for the shifter rod.
    Next question.....what is available for the turn signal system if I use this stock column??? I am going to be putting in an aftermarket wiring harness from KWIK-WIRE or PAINLESS or one of the major suppliers. What have some of you used????
    Thanks,
    Steve
     
  16. stock with adjustable column drop.
     
  17. Imwalkin
    Joined: Jul 29, 2004
    Posts: 544

    Imwalkin
    Member
    from Tucson, Az

    Lime works has a turn signal switch also. It is a bit on the large side. I'd try a early bug or bus switch and housing.
     
  18. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 4,785

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Can you make the horn work with the stock column to later sector?
     
  19. alphabet soup
    Joined: Jan 8, 2011
    Posts: 2,020

    alphabet soup
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I used a '65 Corvair in mine. Nice and small in diameter. Fits the dash cut out nice. Had a nice long shaft. Kinda cut to length.
     
  20. Just for S & G's,,,Coup is a sudden, violent, and illegal seizure of power from a government.

    A Coupe is a closed two-door car body style with a permanently attached fixed roof. HRP
     
  21. I'll give up one of the finds I use. Look in mail Jeeps, the RHD ones (maybe LHD should be the same if any?). They have a great small tube diam column that has a splined end for the drag link. It looks like old traditional style, but already set up for use with modern steering box. I forget the spline count, I think it is like 3/4 x 36 but it is an easy one to get a U-joint for. Only drawback is it may be a bit long for some applications.
     

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