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Technical What’s the best way to pull a chevy 216?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by keith27T, Oct 13, 2019.

  1. Hi Guys,
    Just trying to figure out the best way to do this? 38 Chevy front clip off. Next move do I take the tranny out first our can I take the motor and tranny together. Never dealt with a torque tube before.[​IMG]


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  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 43,460

    squirrel
    Member

    either way should work. I forget, is there a mount under the back of the transmission on that car? If so, it would keep the trans from falling down too far when you pull the motor, if you unbolt the trans from the bellhousing.

    you can't unbolt the bellhousing from the block until you remove the flywheel, which you might already know.
     
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  3. Yes squirrel there is a trans mount. Do i just unbolt the motor mounts and the transmission mount and pull it forward to disconnect the torque tube? Our am I missing something here?


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    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
  4. Shadow Creek
    Joined: May 14, 2014
    Posts: 149

    Shadow Creek
    Member
    from Summit, TX

    On my 39 I remember I removed the torque tube from the transmission then removed the transmission by pulling it through the floor, it’s not very big. After the trans was out then the motor and bell housing were pulled together. I followed the procedure that was in the 1939 service manual, I imagine 1938 is very similar.
     
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  5. How did you remove the torque tube? Thanks


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  6. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 43,460

    squirrel
    Member

    I was thinking of leaving the transmission in the car, and removing the engine and bellhousing by lifting a little and pulling it foward. Then pull the transmission out. Since you probably aren't going to keep the torque tube, are you?

    but you can also get under there and pull the cover off the torque tube ball, slide the ball back, disconnect the U joint, and then pull the trans out first. Beware the end of the torque tube is supporting some weight, though.
     
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  7. Yes keeping torque tube.
    59 235 going in to replace the 216.


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  8. Shadow Creek
    Joined: May 14, 2014
    Posts: 149

    Shadow Creek
    Member
    from Summit, TX

    There is a collar of sorts around the front of the torque tube where it pivots, just remove a couple bolts and the collar and front portion of the torque tube should slide backwards. If I remember correctly then you disassemble the U-joint, it’s just four bolts, which then allows the torque tube to drop down enough to remove the transmission through the access hole in the floor. I’ll try to get the manual and take pictures of the instructions, it may be a day or two before I’m able to get down to the shop.

    ^^looks like Squirrel got it typed before I did
     
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  9. Thanks that would be great.
    I will look at the floor tomorrow. To see if there is a plate? As the trans is a 3 speed stick. Would be nice if I could just unbolt the tranny and pull the bell housing motor out and then put bell clutch and pressure plate on the 235 and try to slide it back in connecting it up to the tranny. Is this possible?
     
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  10. Stan Back
    Joined: Mar 9, 2007
    Posts: 477

    Stan Back
    Member
    from California

    "WHAT’S THE BEST WAY TO PULL A CHEVY 216?"

    With a Ford Flathead?
     
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  11. Eddie
    Joined: Apr 2, 2006
    Posts: 445

    Eddie
    Member
    from Georgia

    Yes, just remove the 4 transmission bolts and the clutch linkage and block up the transmission with a jack or blocks, remove.
     
  12. Well that’s what I wanted to here


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  13. Dave Downs
    Joined: Oct 25, 2005
    Posts: 845

    Dave Downs
    Member
    from S.E. Penna

    Leaving the transmission in the car and pulling the engine out is easy but trying to slide the transmission main shaft into the clutch disc while putting the new engine in with the transmission still bolted to frame may be difficult. I’d pull the torque tube ball and undo the U-joint, it’s not that hard
     
  14. And then pull motor and tranny.
    Or leave trans in?


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  15. 52HardTop
    Joined: Jun 21, 2007
    Posts: 814

    52HardTop
    Member

    I'd pull them together. Leave the tranny and engine together. Remove the bolts from the tranny mount and the motor mounts, take the torque tube apart from the tranny and pull. I could see if the engine was staying in the car and you wanted to pull just the tranny. You would then support the engine and then pull the tranny. Leaving the tranny in place and trying to pull just the engine seems to make a lot of work and possible trouble for no good reason.
     
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  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 43,460

    squirrel
    Member

  17. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,685

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    The top two bolts insert through the ‘ears’ on the tranny case and thread into the bell housing.....the bottom two bolts are installed from inside the bell housing and thread into the transmission case. Access is by removing the tin flywheel cover on the bottom of the bell housing.

    While there is really no ‘wrong’ choice about leaving the tranny in place, or removing it, given that you are keeping the trans I would tend to leave the trans in place. It is a bit more challenging to get the trans input shaft lined up with the clutch disc, it is doable....just requires patience and careful alignment, but not all that bad.

    My main reason for suggesting that is because dealing with the emergency brake linkages on your car , which are attached to the trans, is also a pain in the ass. Leaving the trans in place eliminates that hassle. This is fresh in my mind as I have recent experience with my ‘37 Chevy. Just my 2 cents.

    Ray
     
    Last edited: Oct 13, 2019
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  18. samurai mike
    Joined: Feb 24, 2009
    Posts: 431

    samurai mike
    Member

    FYI. you don't have to take the u joint apart. it will slide off the inner driveshaft with the transmission.
     
  19. Bill Rinaldi
    Joined: Mar 23, 2006
    Posts: 1,640

    Bill Rinaldi
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Keith----Since you are using the '59 235 six in your 39, are you using the 39 trans with the 235? Does the engine fit the 39 trans? Is the 235 the same length and engine mount position as the 215? As for the torque tube rear end, are you heart set on using it? Bottom line---Whats your game plan? Bill
     
  20. indianbullet
    Joined: Feb 5, 2014
    Posts: 39

    indianbullet
    Member
    from Ca

    Your probably aware but you will be needing the 216 front timing gear mount to be on the 235, for the front mount. or drill the 235 plate to accommodate the mounting on each side of it.
    I had to do this on my 40 using a 58 235.
    As said above, you can do it either way, pick your poison.
     
  21. Think I am going the leave the tranny in. The 59 to 62 front mounts will work just have to drill the holes in the timing cover, as it looks the same.
    Use the 38 bell , so yes tranny will bolt up and change the Flywheel to a 6bolt 139 tooth and go with the original starter.
    That’s the plan...... oh and use the torque tube.


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  22. southcross2631
    Joined: Jan 20, 2013
    Posts: 2,939

    southcross2631
    Member

    My dad was died in the wool inline 6 guy. We always left the trans in the car when pulled a motor out of a torque tube car. I was the one under the car when we put it back in.
    We had a chain fall and had to roll the car forward to get it in the splines. Not fun , but it worked.
     
  23. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 10,685

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    ^^^^^^^^When I was about 16/17 (early ‘60s) I had a ‘51 Chevy 235/Powerglide. Learned a lot about working on cars and doing so literally under a shade tree. Improvisation was the standard practice for a determined but ill-equipped kid in those days.

    Today, I’d probably put the rear axle on jack stands so the rear wheels could be turned to move the input shaft, rather than having to move the car itself. In those days, I didn’t even have a safe jack, much less jack stands. Lucky to be here to talk about the ‘good old days’.

    Ray
     
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  24. Shadow Creek
    Joined: May 14, 2014
    Posts: 149

    Shadow Creek
    Member
    from Summit, TX

    Here’s the pics I said I would get for you. I think you’ve got plenty of info to make a decision but I told you I would post them so here they are, this is from my 1939 Chevy service manual 5FE7398C-E8F6-43E8-92CC-09B66C54F7C8.jpeg C11AD5EC-9E8E-4FFE-A8AB-AB4205C508C1.jpeg
     
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  25. Thanks for the post guys, much appreciated.
    Should be pulling it next week, and then cleaning up the frame before installing the 235. Am replacing the steering box/column as well with a replacement as this one was broke inside...
    Need to get some new motor mounts ordered as well.
     
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2019
  26. COCONUTS
    Joined: May 5, 2015
    Posts: 590

    COCONUTS

    This was the first motor that I pulled and replace. At 16 years old I follow the motor manual to the letter. The first thing was to drain all the fluids (oil and water), second unhook and label all the wires, third pull the nose, pull the motor leaving the transmission, but the bell housing goes with the engine. I remember they made a big deal of taking the two upper transmission bolt holes, hooking a wire up to them to hold the transmission in place. Pulled the motor with a swing set (last time for that). This was on a 47 Chevy Panel truck. the motor that I put in was not much more better than the one I took out, but it look good all painted up. If I remember correctly, my father did have a few problems with some of the neighbors, over this event. but little did the neighbors know that this was only the beginning.
     
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