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Wet sanding edges

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by usmile4, Nov 17, 2012.

  1. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 700

    usmile4
    Member

    What are the secrets/tips you can give me when wet sanding near the edges of doors, wheel openings, hood, truck lid etc? How about around contours like around the windows quarter panels and such. I'm working on a 51 Chevy styleline.
     
  2. 34toddster
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 1,481

    34toddster
    Member
    from Missouri

    I'd add one word to above post RED
     
  3. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 700

    usmile4
    Member

    When I'm set sanding say a door, do I stay away from the edge a distance and then use the red scotch pad on that part prior to using the buffer?
     
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  4. choptvan
    Joined: Mar 19, 2010
    Posts: 2,161

    choptvan
    Member

    you mean wesanding BEFORE polishing then right? I think these guys thought you meant primer or to prep for paint.
     
  5. I use a block and sand right up to the edge. Just sand flat, Don't sand over the edge.
     
  6. wallygator
    Joined: Jun 22, 2009
    Posts: 124

    wallygator
    Member

    Do not use scotch brite on your finished paint, wet sand about 1/2 away from the edges before polishing. Scotch brite only if you are putting more paint on.
     
  7. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 700

    usmile4
    Member

    that's right...wet sanding the clear before polishing. I just don't want to sand through the edges.
     
  8. Jim P
    Joined: Apr 27, 2005
    Posts: 239

    Jim P
    Member
    from Tyler, TX

    If there is enough material on it, I tape the opposite edge and wet sand with a block. When you run your buffer, hold at the angle to allow the pad to spin away from the edge. Example if you are doing a door tape the panel next to door such as a quarter panel and have the pad spin towards the quarter panel away from the door. Go light on the pressure and watch closely not to burn through.
    -Jim
     
  9. DamnYankeesKustoms
    Joined: Jan 14, 2010
    Posts: 297

    DamnYankeesKustoms
    Member

    A flexible body filler spreader, a rubber hose, a flexible rubber sanding block, gotta be creative... and of course scotch brite for pre-priming/painting prep...
     
  10. If you are doing this before polishing, don't scuff the edge at all, stay 1/4" away
     
  11. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,176

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    work wiyh lots of water and use wery low pressuer onthe sanding block . Use some good light so you can seewhat you are doing and look often.
     
  12. ADReese
    Joined: Aug 28, 2009
    Posts: 119

    ADReese
    Member
    from spokane

    I like to use light guide coat on clear when wet sanding. This enables you to "block" the car one last time and in this scenario will help you keep track of the material remaining while removing the imperfections.
     
  13. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 10,176

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Dang I like that idea.
     
  14. Use several coats of clear, then I like using 2000 grit sand paper. You also don't need a super coarse polish to bring the shine back.
     
  15. hoof22
    Joined: Jan 15, 2008
    Posts: 530

    hoof22
    Member


    Using a contrasting guide coat is a GREAT idea, I always do so. On the edges, if you're worried about sanding through on the very edge, tape the very edge of the panel with 1/4" masking tape. It will give just enough protection for finer grits, (like 1,000g-1,500g). And, NEVER SAND BARE HANDED. If you want it straight when sanding primer, always use a block. If you want it smooth, and knock all the peel off, always use a block. AND, use lots of clean water. Everyone has their favorites, but in my opinion, these are hands down the best sanding blocks for WET color sanding prior to polishing: (from Motor Guard, available at any good auto body supply, & most NAPA stores)
     

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    Last edited: Nov 18, 2012
  16. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 5,717

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Tape all the sharp edges, and don't wet sand them at all! Then remove the tape after you've wet sanded and buffed the adjacent areas, and do a final buffing.
     
  17. 34toddster
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 1,481

    34toddster
    Member
    from Missouri

    Ok so we are color sanding NO SCOTCH BRITE, sorrya s I misunderstood your question. I'd tape off the last 1/4 inch before buffing. What paper are you using for the final sand? 2000 ?
     
  18. Tin Can
    Joined: Nov 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,096

    Tin Can
    Member

    I taped off all my edges, when I got to using 3000 grit I unmasked it and sanded a little into the taped areas to flow out the sanding into those areas, 3000 doesn't do much just knock down the orange peel and makes it buff super easy.
     
  19. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 700

    usmile4
    Member

    I'm starting with 1000, then 1500, then 2000 all by hand and then I have some 3000 for the DA.
     
  20. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 27,230

    The37Kid
    Member

    Hopefully you were the guy that shot the paint and put enough on those areas. Worst thing in the world is wetsanding another guys spray paint work. Bob
     
  21. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 700

    usmile4
    Member

    I'm not the guy who shot it...that has been a problem with this job!
     
  22. usmile4
    Joined: Jul 28, 2005
    Posts: 700

    usmile4
    Member

    So I got to the two doors today. I had a couple of runs in the clear on the doors so I figured I would start there. I taped off the edges and did the 1000 wetland. It went fine with the exception of one spot on the bottom of each door that I will need to reshoot as my painter apparently didn't get the color or clear on very good on those areas. Thanks for the tips on the masking as it saved me I'm sure from having to do more repainting!
     

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