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Projects Welding in patch panels question

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by baspinall, Jul 16, 2019.

  1. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Dino 64 - No I have an old frame from Rileys back in the day. Has a 10 inch Z in the rear, swept up 4 inches in the front with a supposed stretch up front as well. 106 wheel base.
     
  2. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    OK so I took it of my table. It is now on my frame. Disconnected the rear spring/rear so I could jack up the frame and temporarily bolt the sub rail on. Used blocks as well.
    I tried using this hobby blaster but it isn't really working well. Think I need a better hose. The cheap one seems to be collapsing on itself constantly.
    I need to get the Cowl set up as well. The repo side panels suck! They also have a million holes drilled in the flanges from someone before. Once I get these lined up and the firewall notched large enough to get over my trans I think I can start really lining things up.
    I also started hitting some of that rear quarter inner wheel well with a wheel and it seems I may have a bit more metal than I thought, at least looking from the back side.
     

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    Vic Walter likes this.
  3. Vic Walter
    Joined: Jan 21, 2018
    Posts: 98

    Vic Walter
    Member

    Looks good to me. With the body rails now flat and well supported fitting the body panels and doors should go well. The wheel well you showed is not that bad I would just patch the area and not the entire thing.
     
  4. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 4,909

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    I have a coupe that never had patches... do you need the measurements from the top of the lower bead to the bottom of the beltline beads front and back ? ...
    maybe find an unmolested coupe cowl and do the same...
     
  5. chiro
    Joined: Jun 23, 2008
    Posts: 992

    chiro
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The bottom edge on all Model A's gets folded over LOOSELY. It's not a "fold over and crimp it tight" thing. That's not how it was done from factory. A couple, maybe three rivets to the subrail was all that held the wheel well in place. I used carriage bolts in the rivet locations when I replaced my sub rails.
    Andy
     
    redoxide likes this.
  6. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 556

    OFT
    Member

    Looks good!!
     
  7. Binkman
    Joined: Nov 4, 2017
    Posts: 270

    Binkman
    Member

    I like to use those purple 3M strippit wheels to get the metal shiny. Often I don't need to blast, just use the purple wheels. They get down to clean bare metal with no material removal and very little heat.
    I have been doing this for a long time but about 20 years ago Kent Fuller taught me a trick with patch panels. When you cut out the panel take your body hammer and lightly tap on the edge of the new panel and the body to "build up"the metal right on the edge. I didn'tbelieve it would make a difference but it was easier to TIG the parts that were tapped on. Fuller is one sharp guy.
     
  8. baspinall
    Joined: Dec 8, 2009
    Posts: 450

    baspinall
    Member
    from SE PA

    Never heard of that trick but it makes sense. I'm using a MIG but extra metal is extra metal. So far I have only fixed small areas and holes and such. Did my B pillars. When I get this body assembled then my real test begins with larger area patch panels on the quarters. Yesterdays B pillar repair.
     

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