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Event Coverage Welcome to the 2017 Meltdown Drags

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Okiedoker, Oct 6, 2016.

  1. all good tips on setting up a crank. i do one extra step when i put in a crank. i use a heavy plastic hammer and tap the crank front and rear a few times setting the thrust bearing. then i check the end play. sometimes the thrust needs to be sanded on a flat surface to get the right end play.
     
  2. the caps have shiny spots so they are moving around. the bearing halves are rubbing on each other. the bearings show some black death. the thrust looks worn out. i would say the crank is moving around so much that the oil wedge is at times being lost. this creates heat and wear. the parts tell a story. my thoughts are the caps or the registers in the block are shot. with the studs out do the caps move side to side?
     
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  3. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,054

    Tickety Boo
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Wiped them down and bearing side thrust areas look good. :)

    Measured a new bearing against used all have .090 wall thickness. side 1.jpg side 2.jpg new side.jpg
     
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  4. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,054

    Tickety Boo
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Got two years grace time coming from Scott, if I gotta save up for a new Dart raised cam block. :D
     
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  5. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,550

    powrshftr
    Member

    A few more hours.....That's what it's gonna feel like while you're watching my tail lights disappear down the track...I'm guessing you're gonna get out with one of your notorious hole-shots,but that won't last long....When I drive around you as I'm pulling second gear you're going to be hearing BB King singing "The thrill is gone..."

    Scott


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  6. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,550

    powrshftr
    Member

    Put the cam on the roof if you want....It doesn't matter where you raise it to.Tickety Boo isn't going to be safe from the Shaker this year,Norb.

    Scott


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  7. Good point on the thrust seating, I forgot to mention that.
     
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  8. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 9,721

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    What kind of damper are you running ?
     
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  9. it looks like the radius on the thrust took a lot of heat. its hard to tell with the pic being dark. I should clarify my comments on the crank. I don't think the crank is moving side to side. I think its moving front and back. I think the cap is moving side to side. mention this to your machine shop and let us know what they say.
     
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  10. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,054

    Tickety Boo
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    damper.jpg James

    Running a 6" Fluid damper, also some feel that my Summer Brothers gear drive may cause problems.

    Brian

    Machine shop thought most of the problem was dirt in bearings, he said the Clevite 77 H bearing is dark
    from heat treating new. The pictures are darker, ( what looks black in pics is really dark gray.)

    He felt that Honing with plates will solve the ring problem.
    ( this was not done on original build )
     
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  11. Watch out for those Fluid dampness, sometimes the fluid goes hard, and turns the dampner into an unbalanced crank breaker.
     
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  12. I have the same main bearings, the H's I think, they come looking like someone waved a torch over them until they get blue'd.
     
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  13. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,178

    55chieftain
    Member

    Is there any fretting on the block where the main caps seat?

    A mid plate is on my to do list over the winter
     
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  14. powrshftr
    Joined: Mar 29, 2013
    Posts: 4,550

    powrshftr
    Member

    I've heard that from more than one guy up here.Temperature drops,and they solidify.

    Just go easy on the sprucing-up,will ya Norb...?
    I can't really afford for that thing to run too much better than it already does!lol!

    Scott


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  15. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,054

    Tickety Boo
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Is there a way to test a fluid damper?
     
  16. well that's good news. I use the same bearing and they do look like crap right out of the box. when you get it back still check the cap fit just to be sure.
     
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  17. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 9,721

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    I would go wit an ATI super damper. I have read good thinks about them but then I am just reading this now so.....
     
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  18. If it was bad, the engine would probably shake like a dog crapping razor blades. You could ask the balancing dude to check it out, when he re-balances your assembly, with the new pistons etc.
     
  19. Deuced Up!
    Joined: Feb 8, 2008
    Posts: 3,567

    Deuced Up!
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well there is an image I will have for a while...Thanks Ric :eek::p:p:p;)
     
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  20. Tickety Boo
    Joined: Feb 2, 2015
    Posts: 1,054

    Tickety Boo
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Got a engine tie down strap bolted on the driver side head down to the frame.
    Aftermarket version of what G.M. put on, ( the safety fix ) for broken motor mounts in the 60s.

    Adding one on the rear of the head it might help stop some of the twist.
     
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  21. 62Furious
    Joined: Apr 14, 2009
    Posts: 257

    62Furious
    Member

     
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  22. Gammz
    Joined: May 10, 2015
    Posts: 747

    Gammz
    Member
    from Lincoln Ne

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Rear spring relocation kit and some new gears for her. More pieces of the puzzle taken care of.


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  23. 62Furious
    Joined: Apr 14, 2009
    Posts: 257

    62Furious
    Member

    All right Gammz lookin good
     
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  24. Gammz
    Joined: May 10, 2015
    Posts: 747

    Gammz
    Member
    from Lincoln Ne

    Alright question time. If I need to put it in a different section tell me.
    The spring kit says that it pinion angle needs to be at 3-5 degrees up toward transmission to eliminate u joint binding. Now would one be best suited to weld the spring pads at that angle or weld them flat and make the angle with a shims? I plan on just leaving the stock pads on the housing. And welding the new ones right next to them.
    Thanks dudez.



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  25. 55chieftain
    Joined: May 29, 2007
    Posts: 2,178

    55chieftain
    Member

    Put the housing in the car with pads loose, and with weight of car on suspension than adjust angle and tack weld pads, that's how I do it anyway to get it right the first time . Ask Scott about pinion shims! Something can go wrong if too many or added , I would avoid if possible.

    Depends on trans angle if say 2 down than typlically want 2 up at rear if driving on the street if street/race only can add an extra degree down to compensate for rising pinion angle under acceleration. For race only and depending on suspension can go more. I set mine down -2 negative from level.

    The driveshaft actually speeds up and down thru the rotation, so more driveshaft working angle this happens more, so basically trying to match up the u joint speed at each end to avoid a vibration.
     
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  26. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 9,721

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    That was just cold there now......
    What are you using for anti rotate?
     
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  27. Gammz
    Joined: May 10, 2015
    Posts: 747

    Gammz
    Member
    from Lincoln Ne

    Good ol slapper bars. Low budget shit here.


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  28. Gammz
    Joined: May 10, 2015
    Posts: 747

    Gammz
    Member
    from Lincoln Ne

    So even if the trans is at 2 down I should make the rear two up. Even if the kit instructions say 3-5. I forgot to mention that the kit will also raise the rear 3/4 inch. That's kool.

    And in Scott's defense I had no intention in pinon shims comments from the peanut gallery!! Anyways I digress........

    I was planning on the whole bolt it all up and then weld plan to. Easier to unbolt than grind off my awesome welds.


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  29. saltflats
    Joined: Aug 14, 2007
    Posts: 9,721

    saltflats
    Member
    from Missouri

    Make sure the rubber bumpers are at the front spring bolt center line.
     
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  30. Okiedoker
    Joined: Dec 19, 2013
    Posts: 715

    Okiedoker
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Scott recommends stacking shims on top of shims... it is kind of like playing Jenga with your car...


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