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Projects We gutted the old beater now what?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by HOTRODPRIMER, Feb 16, 2019.

  1. We wrapped up the dash mods and pulled the seats and removed the thick rummer mat that was glued in place but now I want to use some type of insulation to help with the heat & noise before the interior is installed, there seems to be a plethora of materials available for this job.

    In the wagon we installed the peel & stick type that Dave had left over from a couple of other projects but all that has been used up so I am asking you guys what you have used and are you pleased with it. HRP
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. I used this stuff I found on EBay. Foil on both sides , semi- flexible foam in between. Came in a roll big enough to do the floor in one piece plus enough to do half the roof. Going to order another roll and double layer the roof.
    20180601_161942.jpg
    Uh
     
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  3. Doublepumper
    Joined: Jun 26, 2016
    Posts: 361

    Doublepumper
    Member

    I've used Noico Solutions 80 Mil car sound deadening mat in the past and am using it in my current project. Have been very pleased with it, both in price and quality. Part number is SNL2 KM. I bought it through ebay. I think there is a 50 Mil version of it available also, but haven't used it.
     
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  4. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 3,058

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I used the Peel and Seal brand from Lowes. Self sticking, be sure you have it placed where you want it, you ain't taking it back off! Think it took about 4 rolls to do the Lincoln floor. In the roofing dept.....
     
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  5. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 3,524

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    I highly recommend the product that lobucrod here on the HAMB sells. I did a test a few years ago here on the HAMB and found it to be an excellent heat barrier. My choice is now Lizard Skin covered with his EZ Cool product.
     
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  6. NashRodMan
    Joined: Jul 8, 2004
    Posts: 1,576

    NashRodMan
    Member

    I used what Bamamav said above. Worked really well, Cheap and comes out very easy if you need to remove it for some reason.
     
  7. okiedokie
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 3,524

    okiedokie
    Member
    from Ok

    Here is the results of some testing that I did.[

    QUOTE="okiedokie, post: 12250914, member: 7004"]
    1. Here is my original test, I will follow with adding the LoBuc stuff.
      [​IMG]
      Joined: Jul 5, 2005
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      okiedokie
      Member
      from Ok

      This past weekend I had the chance to do some testing with a non-contact temp sensor on my three hot rods. I have just completed installing B-Quirt over the Lizard Skin sprayed earlier. I was a little concerned about that decision and wanted to see, before upholstery, how it performed. The outside temp was low 90's in bright sun. The car is a 1940 Ford coupe painted black. First I tested outside of an area that does not yet have B-Quiet on it [ran out]. I was shocked to find only a 5 degree difference between the outside and directly opposite on the inside. I had the Lizard Skin applied by a local shop that does so regularly. Did they not do it corectly???? Certainly looked good, but how do you ascertain 40 mils? I later decided to do the underside of the car and sprayed it myself, I don't know if I got 40 mils. I do like how the Lizard Skin seals the surface. Anyway, next I tested the area with B-Quite over the Lizard Skin. WOW, a 60 degree difference. I also tested my Blue 46 coupe with some insulation that comes from the aircraft industry [not sure of the name, black, closed cell foam type stuff] and a headliner. It was 40 degree's different. Then I tested my 53 F100 with two layers of the "jute" backed foil. I put the first layer in with the foil toward outside and then was told by many that was the wrong way, so I intalled a second layer with the foil to the inside. It has a Rod Doors ABS plastic headliner. It also tested at a 40 degree difference. Of course, what I don't know is what a effect a headliner will have on the 40, I hope for the better. I have attached some pictures to validate my comments.

      Attached Files:

    2. a" data-thumb-height="100">
    1. okiedokie, Aug 6, 2007 Edit !Report!

    2. okiedokie, Oct 24, 2016 Edit Delete !Report!
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    4. [​IMG]
      Joined: Jul 5, 2005
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      okiedokie
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      from Ok


      Joined: Jul 5, 2005
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      okiedokie
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      from Ok

      Test results with Lobucrod's insulation. I wish that I could have done this in the same temperature as the last but didn't want to wait untill next summer. It was only about 78 degrees on this day. I used the trunk lid on my 46 because it has nothing in the way of insulation on the inside. I attached a piece of B-Quiet, Lobuc's, jute with foil, and the airline industry stuff. With the outside temp on the decklid at 111 degrees I obtained the following results. B-Quiet 84 deg, Lobuc 84 deg, jute/foil 88 deg and airline stuff 86 deg's. Later it dawned on me that I could create heat with my "halogen lights on a pole". So I set this up in the shop and tested the Lobuc and the B-quiet on my 40 project that has the Lizard Skin sprayed on. I was able to heat the outside surface to 160 degrees. The area that I had already installed B-quiet over the LS showed 80 degrees on the interior side, the Lobuc over the LS was 85 degrees. I have pics to back this up if anyone needs to see them, well not the halogen light induced temp because the lite was too bright to take any pics. Some thoughts about what I think that I have learned. First Lobuc has a good product that I will use again. It is as good at temp reduction as B-Quiet for a lot less money. It also is lighter than B-Quiet and easy to remove if needed, I learned that removing the B-Quiet after it has been on a while is VERY hard, as it leaves a coating of tar on the surface. Yes it looks and smells like a fresh asphalt coating on a parking lot. I would not be happy to deal with this stuff after it has been on the car for awhile. This experience makes me rethink the value of using this type of stuff. I don't know how Lobucs product would stack up against B-Quiet as far as sound control goes. Also, there did not seem to be any advantage to adding a layer of Lobuc's over the B-Quiet I already have. Putting two layers of Lobuc's product together also seemed to not lower the temp reduction. My next project will probably get a coating of Lizard Skin with Lobucrod's product over it. One last thing in case you did not see my other post regarding the thickness of Lizard Skin. I was recently able to test what was sprayed on my 40 [some by me, most by an experienced shop] with an expensive device that measure mills of coating thickness. Lizard skin recommends 40 mils, my 40 varies from 10 to 20 miils. A friend that recently did the floor of his car had to apply three coats with a roller to get to 40 mils of thickness. Just FYI. Joe

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      I might add that if you look up Lobucrod on the HAMB forum you will see testimonials
    [/QUOTE]b
     
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  8. On my 51, I used Dynamat and 1/2” Dynaliner over that. I pretty much covered every inch of the interior, floor, and headliner area. The car is cool and quiet. ...for that old a car.

    For my 29 cabriolet, I used Dynamat Extreme (same as Dynamat, but newer name). It made the car feel much more solid, cutting much of the vibration noise.

    I just shopped around for the best Dynamat prices before I bought, and it was not too expensive.
     
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  9. Chappy444
    Joined: Jan 27, 2012
    Posts: 771

    Chappy444
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    1. Maryland HAMBers

  10. thirtytwo
    Joined: Dec 19, 2003
    Posts: 2,507

    thirtytwo
    Member

    b[/QUOTE]

    Do you have a quick link to this product?
     
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  11. wingspread7
    Joined: Mar 29, 2009
    Posts: 737

    wingspread7
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have experience in soundproofing turbine aircraft. Of course I had to use expensive aircraft approved materials. I devised a mapping system for logging frequency and db levels @ each panel. I then selected the type and amount of material for each panel. There are many different approved materials to chose from. The results were amazing but terribly expensive.
    I haven't gotten around to soundproofing my auto projects yet but can assure you that I won't be using aircraft materials. I will, however, be using materials that will adhere to the skin of the car very well. The more stiffening the less vibration and better soundproofing. Yeah, It would be hard to get it off again but it was hard getting off the old soundproofing in the aircraft. It was a tar based material and involved chemicals, masks, gloves, heat guns, scraping and lots of ventilation. That material had to do with reducing low frequency vibration only. The higher frequencies were absorbed by foam and fiberglass type materials.
    I also designed recording studios and radio stations for over 40 years and wrote a 4 year audio engineering course for The Art Institutes of America. Part of that was on acoustics and the absorption of different frequencies. I'm saying all this to say that I will opt for the "hard to remove" type material followed up with compressed fiberglass. Ford did some elaborate research on auto sound proofing and I will dig into that sometime when I get ready. Information is a good thing. I know it's cheaper to use hardware type materials and that they will surely make a big difference in both acoustic and insulation disciplines. The more expensive auto insulation materials, however, are the result of engineering exercises that have already been done.
     
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  12. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 867

    goldmountain

    I've found several reports on the net about the roofing material coming loose after time along with the asphalt smell so went with a butyl product from Kilmat because it was a lot cheaper than Dynamat. However, the car is still under construction so I really can't say how quiet it will be. With a windshield that is bolt upright, I'm sure that it won't rival a Rolls Royce. For you China bashers, this stuff is made in the Russian Republic.
     
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  13. BamaMav
    Joined: Jun 19, 2011
    Posts: 3,058

    BamaMav
    Member
    from Berry, AL

    I've also read that about some of them, but the Peel and Seal doesn't have that asphalt smell. Can't say about it coming loose, mine is all on the floor, but I know when I put it down you could pull it up and reposition it before you rolled it down, then after being rolled you couldn't move it.
     
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  14. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 25,027

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I had that Home Depot foil covered bubble wrap in my 51 Merc and it didn't work too well and tends to break down in any area under the carpet where your feet might go. It did help some in the roof though.
    I've been looking at Fatmat https://www.fatmat.com/ They sell it on Ebay and Amazon. It is noise control but not much for heat control.
     
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  15. Kan Kustom
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 2,268

    Kan Kustom
    Member

    Wow ! That is some in-depth testing. Thanks for sharing.
     
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  16. Black_Sheep
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 895

    Black_Sheep
    Member

    I started with FatMat Rattletrap followed by FatMat floor liner from the top of the firewall to the back of the cab. On top of that is some very dense jute padding. Overkill? Maybe, but the effort seems to have paid off, the cab seems super solid and quiet.

    rattletrap.JPG

    27749892_532412997145140_5945443677072160913_n.jpg

    27751994_1565490653488410_7221447507049820260_n.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 17, 2019
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  17. rusty rocket
    Joined: Oct 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,344

    rusty rocket
    Member

    I also used the peel and stick from lowes on my 32 sedan.Very affordable and easy to apply. I rolled every square inch with a roller used for laminent countertops and then used alum. duct tape on all seams.(not regular duct tape the thin metal tape)
     
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  18. turdmagnet
    Joined: May 19, 2008
    Posts: 352

    turdmagnet
    Member

    I've used this stuff on my last 3 dailys and it works well for my needs. I also seal all edges with the foil tape cause I have found some bleeding on the edges of vertical surfaces occurs over time. Never had any come loose, nor did I notice any odour with using it.


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  19. Petejoe
    Joined: Nov 27, 2002
    Posts: 9,954

    Petejoe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Zoar, Ohio

    Regardless what you use I’ll pass some experience.
    I used the self sticking. Sure looked like it would last a lifetime. But after a few years it began coming loose.
    The last time i did this I used 3M adhesive contact cement. Holding well for ten years now.
    I bought the Lowes foil back roll insulation. Cheap stuff, good quality.
     
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  20. Thanks for the sage advice Rick. HRP
     
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  21. Ford52PU
    Joined: Jan 31, 2007
    Posts: 425

    Ford52PU
    Member
    from PA

    I also used insulation Lobucrod sells, I used it in my 52 and also a non Hamb British car I used to have. It really worked out good. I've had it in the truck about 5 years. Worked for me
     
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  22. I got to Dave's shop this afternoon and he was installing the peel & stick insulation, he doubled it up on the firewall and wasn't finished when I took the photo's.

    I had never heard of this material but it looks like Dynamat with the exception of the name. HRP

    KILMAT

    004.JPG
    005.JPG
     
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  23. Knghtcadi
    Joined: Oct 17, 2016
    Posts: 353

    Knghtcadi

    After reading this and researching the product I’m going to order it for my project, it gets great reviews and is very affordable so thanks for the update I almost bought the hardware stuff till seeing this


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  24. While preparing the panel board to attach to the top we realized there was bow that was broken, I never paid much attention to the wire wrapped around the rear bow but it was easy enough to glue it back together where it was split and a couple of screws and every thing was good to go.

    As hard as it is to believe the car still has the original top,padding and chicken wire and is still in pretty good condition with no leaking, we will attach a sheet of lauan paneling to wood bows and then add the kilmat followed the vinyl covered panel board. HRP
     
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  25. I'd like to see some pictures of the roof insert while you're doing it. If you can.
     
  26. J. A. Miller
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,156

    J. A. Miller
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Central NY

    Looking good Danny!
    Where did you get the louvered key fob?
     
  27. I picked that up at the NSRA Nats South in Winston Salem in 1979,I think I gave a dollar for it and I have used it in most of my cars. HRP
     
  28. J. A. Miller
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,156

    J. A. Miller
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Central NY

    Cool, would be neat if @Ryan offered something like that with a HAMB logo on it somewhere.
    upload_2019-2-25_14-26-7.png
     
  29. We are not changing the insert, I may have to in the future but it's still in pretty good shape. HRP
     
  30. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 25,583

    The37Kid
    Member

    [​IMG] I've got the same key fob, the fellow that picked up my '32 Vicky body was from Massachusetts and had a louver business, lost his business card and name. Bob
     

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