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Hot Rods Ways to mount a body to a boxed frame... Pros/Cons..

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Kilroy, Mar 16, 2009.

  1. Kilroy
    Joined: Aug 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,227

    Kilroy
    Member
    from Orange, Ca

    I've got to make a decission on the mounting of my 31 roadster body on my duece frame. I'd like to use the holes that came in the rails but I plan to box the frame and I'm worried about whatever threaded device I have in the rails and my innability to get to it once the rail is boxed...

    I've seen people create mounting tabs for the body but I really would like to avoid adding any 'clutter' to the frame...

    So what to use and why?

    Mounting tabs
    Nut welded to the inside of the frame rail
    Cage Nuts
    Some other welded insert...
    Ideas?...
     
  2. gahi
    Joined: Jun 29, 2005
    Posts: 731

    gahi
    Member
    from Moab, UT

    Weld in a threaded bung. Its a clean way, then safety wire the bolts. I guess the cons would be not much room for misalignment.
     
  3. You could also leave access holes and find appropriate plugs that snap in to cover holes.
     
  4. 55chevr
    Joined: Jul 12, 2008
    Posts: 985

    55chevr
    Member

    you can weld a nut on the inside of the top rail before you put the boxing plate on .... Gary's threaded bung will work or use an expandable nut-sert ... I like the welded ideas better as I have had nut-sert spin on me ... Shouldn't be a problem as you will never have to remove the body once assembled.
     

  5. NealinCA
    Joined: Dec 12, 2001
    Posts: 3,153

    NealinCA
    Member

    I cut access holes in the boxing plates, like this...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Then the body bolts on just like factory.

    Neal
     
  6. 65-67 ford captive nuts for bumpers have a tab with a sturdy clip that slips inside boxed frame.
     
  7. kiwicowboy
    Joined: Nov 28, 2008
    Posts: 349

    kiwicowboy
    Member
    from linwood nc

    I like to use threaded bungs and weld them in the chassie.
     
  8. ohiotj
    Joined: Mar 19, 2005
    Posts: 115

    ohiotj
    Member
    from SW Ohio

    On mine, I welded a washer and a bolt to the underside of top rail of the frame. I used a bolt, and a nut on the top side of the frame to hold everything in place while I welded, which also had the bonus effect of keeping the threads from getting warped noticeably. I plan on using a reasonably long bolt (that goes down below the bottom of the nut) and some loctite when the body gets bolted down.
     
  9. MR. FORD
    Joined: Aug 29, 2005
    Posts: 1,636

    MR. FORD
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Can also use factory Ford cage nuts.
     
  10. boogeracng
    Joined: Feb 13, 2008
    Posts: 346

    boogeracng
    Member
    from Eureka,MO

    Square nuts welded to the top/inside of frame rail. Use at least a bolt that's 1.5 inches long, use a nut on top of the outside of the rail, snugged up to hold the square nut straight and flush. I like to just tack them, then take the bolt out and hard weld it. Don't forget to chase it with a tap. Square nuts are thicker as well as wider across the flats, so if it gets cross threaded or fouled, there is enough material to drill/tap to the next larger size.
     
  11. Kilroy
    Joined: Aug 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,227

    Kilroy
    Member
    from Orange, Ca

    I really like the way that looks Neal and that RPU build is one of my favorites ever on the HAMB...
    And I thought about access hole/lightening holes...
    But my concern is that I wonder how much coating coverage inside the rails you'll actually get when it comes time to prime/paint it, and how well it'll stand up to water and grime getting in there.

    Belled lightening/access holes were always my first choice... But I'm just a little hung-up on that issue.

    Cage nuts were my second choice, but it'd be a bitch if the cage let go inside the rail...

    I think the next best option is the threaded insert... Which I guess I could use to replace a broken cage if that ever happened.

    Any other thoughts?
     
  12. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,628

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Box you frame in with dimpled holes like the Ionia Guys do so that access is available through out the frame. If your already past this stage then cutting a access hole may be the better option.
     
  13. Kevin Lee
    Joined: Nov 12, 2001
    Posts: 7,584

    Kevin Lee
    Super Moderator
    Staff Member

    Kilroy - This might be a completely ridiculous and over-thought solution, but you might find it helpful.

    I've owned a few high end steel bicycle frames and was always paranoid about rust. I used "JP Weigle's frame saver" inside all of the tubes. I ended up making this contraption with part of a spray nozzle and some really small aquarium tubing. Basically threaded it down the frame tubes from the bottom bracket, started spraying and slowly pulled it out as the inside was coated.

    I think a similar setup threaded down the inside of a frame rail would work.
     
  14. Mr. Weld
    Joined: Apr 24, 2006
    Posts: 74

    Mr. Weld
    Member

    I will either weld a bung into the frame or rivet nuts are cool if you are not good with a tig or do not have a tig unit. I got my kit at the local paint supply store, you should check into these. Very neat and easy..
     
  15. Kilroy
    Joined: Aug 2, 2001
    Posts: 3,227

    Kilroy
    Member
    from Orange, Ca

    I think that's a good idea Kevin and should work...

    I guess also that if you punch enough holes in the boxing plates, you can do a pretty good job of covering the inside of the rails too. Maybe even with an appropriate sized brush...

    When I raced, I had my eye on a Chromolly Colnago... But I was never successfull enough to justify the expense... Can't imagine what I would have done if I actually got it and the tubes rusted through...
     

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