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water distribution tube dodge 230

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by harry37, Jul 29, 2009.

  1. harry37
    Joined: Jun 17, 2007
    Posts: 10

    harry37
    Member

    I bought a basket case '49 Dodge 230 a couple of months ago, And its all stripped down except the water distribution tube. Its all mashed together and stuck in there and I need to figure out a way to yank it out of there. All suggestions are welcome.
     
  2. rodknocker
    Joined: Jan 31, 2006
    Posts: 2,267

    rodknocker

    do you have a picture of the problem?
     
  3. Paul
    Joined: Aug 29, 2002
    Posts: 14,317

    Paul
    Editor

    hook on a slide hammer?
     
  4. Not sure what a "water distribution tube" is, but if its a tube press fitted into the block or head, you should be able to grind it flush and cut down one side of what is left with a chisel. Maybe cut in two or 3 places and pick out the pieces.
     
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  5. JohnEvans
    Joined: Apr 13, 2008
    Posts: 4,883

    JohnEvans
    Member
    from Phoenix AZ

    +1 for slide hammer with a hook. Them things are just a hand push fit to start. now ya got some rust holding it in.
     
  6. sliderule67
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 367

    sliderule67
    Member
    from Houston

    What Paul said. Find the meatiest place you can to attach the hook. If you can get thru both sides of the tube, all the better. Some penetrating oil would probably help, and have some patience so you don't just tear the metal. More lighter taps is good. Bumping it loose by driving it in a little might also be helpful. Scribe a line on it so you can see what's happening.
     
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2009
  7. oldspert
    Joined: Sep 10, 2006
    Posts: 1,249

    oldspert
    Member
    from Texas

    Leave it in and have your block hot tanked. It should come out easily after the rust is desolved.
     
  8. greaseguns
    Joined: Dec 24, 2006
    Posts: 135

    greaseguns
    Member

    Make sure to put a new one in,I think it helps cool the valve seats.
     
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 42,677

    squirrel
    Member

    it looks like this from the front

    [​IMG]

    it's a sheet metal tube, kind of flat, with holes in it, goes back the full length of the engine behind the water pump, sends cool water to the valve area. If it's missing or rotted out or plugged, the engine will overheat.
     
  10. Thanks Squirrel..

    I was thinking he had a new name for heater hose nipple or similar.

    So chiseling won't work on that..
     
  11. andydodge
    Joined: Sep 28, 2008
    Posts: 858

    andydodge
    Member

    The only way I could get mine out was by using a pair of the largest screw drivers you can find, 12" or bigger, jam each one into the tube at the front of the block and lever the blades into each side the tube as you push the screwdriver handles back toward the rear of the engine........its a real bastard trying to get it out, but essential to replace if you want the engine to run cool.....good luck.......for what its worth I tried various slide hammers, hooks, oil, etc over a period of about 3mths before the screwdrivers worked.......andyd
     
  12. The slide hammer and hook will really only work if it's not too badly rusted. The long screwdrivers is a good idea. I got 3' of 5/16" steel rod and ground a flat on the end like a screwdriver. Worked it down one side then the other. Also sprayed WD40 through the water holes in the deck. The bastard took two days to come out!
    Dont be tempted to leave it in there, you'll regret it.
     
  13. Do as the guy above said and hot tank it, if it is rusted bad that is the only thing that will free it up. if you booger the end up and can't get anything on it you are screwed. it needs the tube and they are still avalible new from a few sources.
     
  14. harry37
    Joined: Jun 17, 2007
    Posts: 10

    harry37
    Member

    Thanks for all the advice guys, its soaking down right now. Sorry I didn't reply sooner I had some stuff going on. I don't know what a guy like me did for advice before this forum.
     
  15. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 42,677

    squirrel
    Member

    I know what we did....we learned the hard way
     
  16. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,741

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    go over to p15 d25 forum there is a discussion on removal with a couple pictures of diferent tools folks have made. It is esential that you replace it as it does have a critical job of cooling the valve seats as well as regulating speed of flow.

    As a last resort, if the engine is out, one person threw caution to the wind and drilled a hole in the rear of the block and kocked it out with a log drift. The he taped the hole ad put in a pipe plug. But the home meade tool hooked to a slide hammer usually works.

    http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=695
     
  17. hkestes
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 537

    hkestes
    Member
    from Plano, TX

  18. AllSteel36
    Joined: Jul 20, 2009
    Posts: 562

    AllSteel36
    Member
    from California

    I pulled mine from a 218 by clamping on vise-grips and twisting into a spiral, then tugging back and forth to loosen it up enough, then twisted somemore/etc,etc.
     
  19. C-1-PW
    Joined: Jun 11, 2006
    Posts: 357

    C-1-PW
    Member

    You can sometimes find replacement distribution tubes made of brass. Something to think about as you hammer and chisel and slide hammer that sucker out of there.
     
  20. hemimerc
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 21

    hemimerc
    Member

    Got mine out with a 20lb slide and round rod with a hook and plenty of wd 40
     
  21. hemimerc
    Joined: May 22, 2010
    Posts: 21

    hemimerc
    Member

    Got mine out with a 20lb slide and round rod with a hook and plenty of wd 40
     
  22. redramv10
    Joined: Feb 8, 2013
    Posts: 1

    redramv10
    Member

    Distribution tube rusted solid to the block.
    I bent the sides in and latched visegrips. Got nothing.
    I used the slide hammer method, it tore the top of the tube.
    I then took a piece of flat steel about 1/16 thick, 3/4 tall, 12" long. Hammered it in along one side about an inch at a time, then slide hammered it out. add grease, hammer in again a little further. Did that until I had to use a longer piece of flat stock. Got to the point where I was tapping it the entire length of the head.
    Same procedure on the other side of the tube.
    After doing this to both sides of the tube, I was able to pull the tube out by hand.
     

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