wanting to make a drag car, need help.

2nd that one.....

 

I'd be careful with that dave morgan book, it contains enough bullshit to do fertalize the back forty.
I've done this a lot and here is my words of wisdom: read/comprehend/understand the rule book; once you figure what class (if any) you want to compete in don't change your game plan, your car will end up with gender confusion. Be realistic, find a nostalga race group and throw in with them and build the car to their rules. You'll have a lot more fun.

 

This is very true, along with the track surface difference. Wheel spin was part of the equation then, not so now.

I think that anyone interested in running any nostalgia type car needs to carefully consider performance/safety vs the "look", and proceed/compromise after you realize for sure where you stand on the issue.

Running a quick authentic weight transfer era car safely on most of today's strips is a lot to ask for. The way I look at it, a 13 sec. trip in a nice handling car is a lot of fun. To me, a lot more fun than a 9 sec. trip in something that is a handful to keep upright.

 

im probably going to run Hursts on the street and maybe some Hoosiers on the track.

im gonna try and get close to 50/50, but im gonna leave a little more weight towards the front. if i can figure out how to set the 4link up right, it should squat and take off nicely.

this thing will be too much fun on the street haah, hopefully i wont run into the law

 

I always figured that if the car was squatting in the back, you were unloading the slicks. As usual, could be wrong.
Larry T

 

i could be wrong too haha, thats why i started this thread, tying to figure all this stuff out

 

Sixfour,you are building my car haha. Thid thread is working out for both of us.

 

man....I hate to keep posting info on your thread but I just went thru all of this stuff you are asking about. Including squatting.....Too much squatting will cause a rebound (bounce) as it comes off of that load and the tire will either unload or spin or if they do stay stuck...you will "porpoise" off the line. My personal opinion is there is a happy medium there and on either side you are not going to be happy. The opposite of squat is kicking the axle out from under the car and that is just as bad. Iam a novice just like yourself, so Im just sharing what I went thru this past year. I have videos of my car squatting and porpoising off the line and the corrections we made to eliminate it.

if your not planning on running faster than a mid 12 I dont think this stuff is as important....but since you said "drag car" I assume your talking 10's

 

no man its ok keep up with posting the info haha like i said im here to learn. i am pretty much setting my car up and hopefully running 10s, but my motor needs some work before i can get there aha, so as of now im just trying to get the chassis together to handle a bunch of hp, on top of the suspension and everything being dialed in and meet the nhra rules

 

Hi
The problem I had when I was building my chassi for my 26 coupe was that there was not enough space for a six point cage. I whant to drive on the street to, have real seats and not have to climb in and out of the car.
So my four point cage put me in nostalgia racing only, but that was the idea from start. Will have my coupe on the road on a couple of weeks.
Good luck whit your build
Rodrobb

 

rodrobb, that chassis is sweet a real shame to hide it under a body! Any pics of the finished car?
Doc.

 

Thank you Doc, Have just put the body on the chassie so no finish car yet.
Will take some pics later to day.
Rodrobb

 

I will take a little stab it this. One of the biggest mistakes people get into when doing a 4-link is the front 4-link bracket placement. Make sure you mock it up where your bottom bar can go down-hill from rear to front at least 2 degrees(the ability to go 6 is better) So if your car is high in the rear the brackets might have to hang below the frame. The bottom bar "pushes" so when it points down-hill it indusess traction by transfering wieght. You actualy want "squat" in a set-up if it seperated at the hit the next action is to drop the nose and unload. Squat has more sustained transfer. An un-equal length set-up will work you just loose some adjustability.

Six-four is that the car in your avitar?? The motor looks pretty far back now,so it should work fine.The whole thing looks behind the spindle?? Hope this helps,build it safe!!And have some fun!! Thanks Dan

 

What I have learn is that when the car is race set the lower link will go parallel to the chassie and the upper link meet the lower link in a line on the cars midleweight point.
I dont have mutch race experience so correct me if Im wrong.
Rodrobb

 

As far as squat or rise, what do the ProStockers do? They are about the ultimate doorslammer and I think most of them leave about flat (no squat or rise).
Larry T

 

A pro-stocker is a totaly different animal!!!! You are talking about a guy wanting to build a automatic under 1000 hp. car!! Not a 1500hp stick at 2350 lbs..Good-luck!! Keep in mind his application.. Dont re-invent the wheel.