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Technical Want to help me build an engine?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by EnragedHawk, Mar 4, 2017.

  1. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,113

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    So, I've ripped a few engines apart, but never put one back together. What probably takes most of you guys are few hours will take me a few months. I'm here for any advice you guys are willing to throw my way.

    So, long story as short as possible: my buddy gave me this 350. It's in pieces, and I have no idea what's good and what's not.

    I am looking to build this as cheap as possible, meaning reusing as many parts as possible.

    So, here are my starting questions: what MUST to be replaced? What MUST be machined?

    Obviously YouTube is my friend here, so that will be a frequent stop for me. First plan is to get it on a stand, pull the pistons, and clean it up. What should my next move be?

    Thanks as always.

    At my friends:
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    [​IMG]


    Back home:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


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  2. make sure you mark the rods and main caps before you take it apart.
     
    flatford39 likes this.
  3. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,113

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Stupid question, so I just need to keep the same rods and main caps together, or do they need to go back to their original cylinder also?


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  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 50,273

    squirrel
    Member

    stamp numbers on the rods and rod caps, start with 1 at the front, going to 8 at the back, They want to go back the way they were. The main caps are probably already stamped. Look for the numbers, pay attention to F for front, also note that the bearing tangs are on the same side on the upper and lower halves.

    That engine is rusty, it's probably junk. Could maybe save the heads, crank, cam, lifters out of it.
     
    tb33anda3rd likes this.

  5. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,800

    flatford39
    Member

    Cylinders look like toast. You can save them with sleeves but it's probably not economically justified. Break it down to a bare block and take it to a machine shop that can check it for cracks (that you can't see) and tell you what you need to do. My machine shop charges around $100.00 to $200.00 depending on the incoming condition.
     
    MrPhat40 likes this.
  6. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,113

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Thanks for the input guys. I'll clean up what I can and go from there. Will a cylinder hone not take care of the walls if they're not too scored?


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  7. hard to say if a hone will do much good, those cylinder walls look bad...could be some deep pitts. take it apart, measure everything, give it a good inspection and then decide how to proceed. the least is probably boring and oversize pistons
     
  8. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 50,273

    squirrel
    Member

    Of course, the first thing you'll need to do is remove a piston or two. Let us know how that goes.
     
    firstinsteele likes this.
  9. if i had that motor for FREE i'd be tempted to pour some Evaporust in one of the cylinders and leave it sit for a while..just to see what it looks like
     
  10. D.N.D.
    Joined: Aug 15, 2012
    Posts: 1,385

    D.N.D.
    Member Emeritus

    Maybe you can find a racer in your town that runs a SBC, see if you can pay him a few bucks to give you some tips on what to do along with the machine shop to check out your parts

    Get some good books on the small blocks and read up so you what parts are what

    Get a chain to lift it not those straps as you are asking for trouble with them, plus a good 4 wheel engine stand with a drip pan too

    DND
     
  11. vickckik
    Joined: Dec 21, 2011
    Posts: 81

    vickckik
    Member

    There are dozens of books available that are specific to rebuilding SBCs. You have good libraries in your town. Spend a couple of hours previewing books and then buy the one that works best for you, either online or at a used book store that might also have some older books that would be appropriate for your build.
     
  12. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 15,610

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    ^^^^this^^^^
    At the top of the list should be anything written by David Vizard.
    Straightforward without a lot of racing oriented discussion, that comes much later.

    20170305_103039.jpg
     
  13. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 50,273

    squirrel
    Member

    I wonder if the books discuss evaporust, molasses, etc as ways to take apart a rusty engine? :) some stuff, you can only get on the hamb
     
    firstinsteele likes this.
  14. 59Apachegail
    Joined: Apr 30, 2011
    Posts: 1,388

    59Apachegail
    Member
    from New York


    Great book and very easy to follow
     
  15. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 28,538

    The37Kid
    Member

    When you do get things back from the machine shop get yourself a clean spot in the garage to assemble things, a "Clean Room". Be sure to cover everything, it will wind up taking longer than you think to get it back together. Bob
     
  16. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,113

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    Ta-da! Finished!

    [​IMG]


    Obviously kidding. Thanks for all of the advice so far. If I get time tomorrow I'm going to start with trying to free up the rotating assembly. If it gets moving, I'll get everything marked and then start stripping it.


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  17. c-10 simplex
    Joined: Aug 24, 2009
    Posts: 1,367

    c-10 simplex
    Member

    It appears that you have a roller cam and roller lifters. So ,at the very least, if the cam checks out ok, then you should be able to reuse it. However, KEEP THE LIFTERS IN ORDER in relation to valves and cylinders when you take them out.

    Actually DO NOT take the lifters out until you consult here first.
     
  18. At the very least take the whole thing apart, mark everything as you go. Then take the block, crank, rods & pistons to an engine builder, have everything checked and cleaned. It will save you from re-assembling bad parts. The service is a flat fee most of the time.
     
  19. EnragedHawk
    Joined: Jun 17, 2009
    Posts: 1,113

    EnragedHawk
    Member
    from Waco, TX

    So, a buddy and I have been talking (which never leads to anything good)...

    I'm thinking about taking a whole new direction with this engine. The odds are slim that it will run again, so I'm thinking about turning it into a cutaway display for my classroom. (I'm an algebra teacher, not shop, but my kids know I'm obsessed with cars.)

    I think it would be cool to set it up on an electric motor with some lights in the cylinders that fire off the distributor to show the firing order. Maybe have one head off and cut the oil pan in half.


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    tb33anda3rd likes this.
  20. wicarnut
    Joined: Oct 29, 2009
    Posts: 8,139

    wicarnut
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Your cutaway sounds pretty Kool, an excellent tool for teaching how a engine works, your auto shop teacher will want it for his shop class's. Most of us old timers had high school shop class's. That gave you some of the basics for starters. I have built many engines in my time and the best advice I can give to a fellow inexperienced Rodder is buy a crate engine, the SBC 350 @ $1495 w/ free shipping is the deal of the day IMO. To properly rebuild a SBC today w/ machine work, parts will get to that $$$ quickly. That being said, everyone starts somewhere, if you want/need to build one, start off w/ a good core, not one like you have received for free, that free will bite your butt IMO. Enjoy the hobby and Good Luck, and remember, Luck has nothing to do w/ engine building, it's a skill, requires tools, has to be correct or it will be junk.
     

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