It will eventually get a 354 hemi. But that's a long way off. I was going to put a y block in it as well, but if you've ever seen the smallblock powered 40 drag car at the Early Ford Store, you'd be sold. It's like Henry built these engine compartments to fit GM OHVs. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Quite a hiatus due to a promotion at work and construction on the house. Gotta get back to it. I arrived home yesterday and was shocked! Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So I pulled everything back out to paint it and I need y'alls help. The previous owner had a 3" drop put on the original axle. Then he pulled every other leaf on the stock spring. This, to me, seems like way to much and the ride will be shit. Who's done this before? I do not want it too low. I plan to hit train crossings without lifting the throttle. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Either reverse the main leaf and remove 2 to 3 leaves starting from the 2nd on from the top skipping to 4th & 6th or just get a Posies lowering spring
Coincidentally, this spring already has the 2nd and 6th removed. I'm going to try it out. Really low 39s look cool, but I flog my shit hard, so it won't be practical at all. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I blew the spring apart and sanded it down. This cold weather is killing my dry times. I ordered some MDS vinyl strips to put between the leafs. 10 bucks from Mcmaster-Carr. It should be here Tuesday and I'll update everyone. Hope it works. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Here’s my recommendation on spring care Proper procedures for prep and paint of leaf springs: Disassemble spring Prior to painting prep we highly recommend removing ALL sharp edges from the factory sheered tips of all the leaves, both top and bottom sides. I also recommend the areas at the tips of the undersides to have a gentle "sweep" so that scaring or gouging will be kept to a minimum when your spring has been painted and installed. Clean springs thoroughly with wax and grease remover or Pre-Kleener Mask off shackle bushings Extreme care must be taken NOT to paint the contact surfaces where the leaves lay on top of each other. Only a very light "fogging" layer is acceptable. The reason for this is that any build- up of paint between the leaf springs will eventually pulverize over time and the leaves and center bolt can end up loose and potential failure may occur. Spray spring with one medium coat of self-etching primer (RM 834 ZIP Primer). (This is a rust inhibitive, self-etching primer with excellent adhesion properties) Allow at least 30 to 60 minutes for "flash" time after prime coat has been applied. Spray spring with 2 (Two) medium coats of black single stage urethane paint (PPG Concept 9000 is an excellent, high quality single stage paint for this type of application.) Use a light coat of EP (extreme pressure) grease or graphite on the underside of each leaf prior to re-assembly. This will allow for a smoother action between the leaves and provide for a softer ride. Clean excess grease off after assembly with a wax grease remover and CLEAN towels. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I did lightly fog it with self etch. Then put a medium coat of black enamel on them. I did sand the edges down and dressed them with a rollok scotch pad. I'm hoping this stuff I got from mcmaster will take the place of grease. I'm not opposed to taking it back out and greasing if it doesn't work. We'll see how it works out. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Main leaf is on. My super slippery nylon sheets are here from mcmaster. But it's cold and I'm tired. Does anyone know: I was planning to wrap my spring in friction tape, but do I wrap it before the weight is on the car or after? Or does it matter? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
All assembled. The stuff from mcmaster-carr is really slippery. It was hard to manage keeping it square during assembly. I planned to take pics of the process but my phone battery was dead. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
She's in. I need to look up the wheelbase so I can get it in ballpark. Then the Treader will be back on front wheels again. I think I found some good 461 cylinder heads to replace my pitted ones. Once it's official, I'll post an update. Engine and trans will be next, but my job and church have me occupied all the time. Wish me luck. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks good. I am concerned about the tie rod rubbing on the bottom of the left wishbone when turning right and vice versa. It looks close in the pic ; maybe just the pic angle.
It was notched by the guy that dropped the axle. The right bone has a longer notch for the cross link to pass through. It seems to be just right when turning. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
When I set the bone length, should I set it with tires on resting on the ground? My brain tells me yes. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I jumped up and down on the crossmember at 1am like a little kid. No squeaks. Bounces smooth as silk! Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
I pulled the rear back out so I can paint it and order some brake parts. Wife wants me to stop coming to bed the same day I wake up. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So.... I decided to replace the axle seals because the driver side brakes were oil soaked. Here's what I found. Any ideas?! Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Looks like it'll be ok. Gonna try and find a new retainer and I'll just grind this one off. New bearings never hurt anyone! Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So it looks like the axle bearing spun it's inner race and that's why the retainer was welded on. What a stupid method to fix it. Nothing a bunch of peens and loctite can't fix. As the saying goes, "Hand work makes grand work." Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Peened and pressed it all on at lunchtime. Pulled the old seals and installed new ones. Time for some assembly. It's getting late so I might push the brakes off to tomorrow. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
So, driver axle will not go in. Grease checked the axle. It isn't hitting anything or bottoming out on the splines. OD of the bearing is 2.835" ID of the tube is 2.832" I thought I could smack it in. No dice. Been working alot. I'll report back. Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Evel Jake helped me get the axle in. We're not sure what was causing the hold up. Boring stuff going on right now. Question: 10" brakes Shoes are ac delco #18029592 Drums are raybestos#2663r Both listed for 1970 bronco with 10" brakes. Both look exactly like the original brakes. With the adjuster all the way in, I hadto smack the drum on. It's super tight. Seems like that shouldn't be the case. Any parts gurus out there? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Small bearing axles. Should be 10 inch brakes. The old drum showed a max dia of 10.9 inches shoes and drums are listed everywhere as 10 inch brakes. Driving me nuts. Adjuster is backed all the way in. Drum looks nice on the backing plate. I'm guessing the shoes are the issue.
I'm pretty certain it's a 10 inch brake. Drum looks perfect. Shoes must be listed incorrectly? Sent from my LGLS992 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
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