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Technical Vintage Ansen NHRA bellhousing & block saver plate question

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tjet, Aug 15, 2015.

  1. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,272

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    I have an early 60's Ansen 2 piece bell & block saver. The block saver plate is 1/4" steel, & it installs between the block & bellhousing. fwd of the flywheel.

    Will this cause problems with the trans input (pilot) shaft going the crank bushing 1/4" less?

    Thanks

    Here is a sample pic

    http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/80/8580/001.jpg
     
  2. KoolKat-57
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 3,026

    KoolKat-57
    Member
    from Dublin, OH

    Do you really need to install the block saver?
    The bell housing no longer is certified for anything, but street use.
    KK
     
  3. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,272

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    I need to install it because my driveshaft was built with the plate thickness factored in
     
  4. yellow dog
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 439

    yellow dog
    Member
    from san diego

    They didn't in the 60's. I've used two and still have one loose. If you are worried
    put the trans in with some prussian blue to verify the penetration
     

  5. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,272

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    When these saver plates are installed, what's the min depth of the input shaft, & how do you go about adjusting it?
     
  6. yellow dog
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 439

    yellow dog
    Member
    from san diego

    Assuming you have a bronze pilot and its tight, I'd assemble it with a .600 penetration,
    The needle bearing pilot bearings that I've used recently have another 1/8" extension when seated. Also I think your driveshaft yoke can accomodate 1/4" extra insertion...its made to move in and out
     
  7. stlouisgasser
    Joined: Sep 4, 2005
    Posts: 670

    stlouisgasser
    Member

    image.jpg I've owned several vintage bellhousings but I've never seen one with a 1/4 motor plate. That's a hefty chunk of metal. Anyway, if you do have one that thick, you might want one of these motor plate style, extra long pilot bushings from Speedway. Heck, I've been using them in regular applications because I like the extra support on the transmission input shaft.
    http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy-Extra-Long-Pilot-Bushing,6974.html
     
  8. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,272

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    The crank has the needle pilot bearing. Will check to see if it sticks out farther ('70 vette replacement forged crank)

    As for the driveshaft, what's a safe minimum insertion depth into the trans? Maybe I'm good as-is.

    Thanks
     
  9. stlouisgasser
    Joined: Sep 4, 2005
    Posts: 670

    stlouisgasser
    Member

    The input shaft/bushing penetration should be at least equal to the diameter of the shaft. I've never liked those needle bearing replacements. Many input shafts don't have the proper hardening to have a bearing riding on them like that. I like the bushings.
     
  10. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,272

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    Thanks for that link. I'm going to get one. The needle pilot brg came installed from chevy (NOS - unused). I think the crank # is 1182 or 1184

    Here's a pic of it installed without the block saver. Shifter mount is custom (moved forward 4" from the stock location)

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2015
  11. yellow dog
    Joined: Oct 15, 2011
    Posts: 439

    yellow dog
    Member
    from san diego

    yeah .250" block plate seems a bit thicker than I've seen....mines half. Anyway the driveshaft yoke might have a +- .500" travel w/ suspension action (particularly leafs). I'm assuming you have ~3"
    of yoke at static ride ht.

    Also it sounds like you are on top of a lot ....but are you sure the bellhousing/trans index is centered on the crank. Different blocks often require using offset guide pins to gain better
    centering. Zero run is good, but .030" is probably max runout
     
  12. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,272

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    I'll get the driveshaft yoke depth measurement & let you know. Once I'm all set on that, I will make sure the runout is ok. thanks again
     

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