Hope I'm not breaking any rules but I'm lost, I would like to find out the Value of what I have ???? Removed it from my car 2 months ago, went to a tunnel ram as its more street friendly... Endrele 2 3/16 and yep it ran on the street, Twice !!! Its a whole setup, the pump filter brackets and what not are a given for value, but the MEAT of the unit is the intake, that's where I'm clueless on the Value ?
In the $1500 range? Someone might get you closer than that . . . check ebay. This kind of stuff is on there all the time. I bought my enderle blower hat off there.
Yea I seen a few on there but there pretty dam beat up, not even close to what I currently have. Thanks for the info !
$1500 for the whole set-up is about right in that condition. I've bought two, an Enderle staggered and a Hilborn that's just like yours, for $900 & $1000. Neither one is 'perfect' but real nice. There's no shortage of them out there, but I wouldn't budge from there either.
When you are putting one together the intake is the cheap part believe it or not. 1500 is probably real close to correct as Tyler and other have said. dreracar thats not a pete jackson unit it is, the butterfly stands look a little taller than what we normally see. Keeping the butterflys farther from the engine makes them a little easier to tune or more streetable if you prefer.
I have seen prices all over the map on these. Very few are for sale complete though......nozzles, hoses, barrel valve, pill boxes, by-passes, pump, stacks, etc. Consider that when you price yours. Most guys buy them and think they can bolt them on for street use, then get frustrated and dump them. You can count on one hand the number of guys who can make them run well on the street.....sort of like a closed club....almost no one will help you sort it out for street use.......most do not know how anyway.
Cool, its a small block unit? I'm guessing here. Just the stacks or??? 800 is cheap is its tight. Just the manifold and the stacks? And of course I am broke, damn the luck. Very nice looking setups both dreracecar and awsomeears. If it is any indication we gave 700 for a small bore hilborn stack unit 5 years ago for the ravens alchy mill. Just the manifold, distribution block and some of the linkage. Even with the recession the price of injection has not gone down much if any at all. I hate it I have been searching for some enderly barn doors for awhile. I used to pick them up at swap meats all the time for 15 to 20 bucks because they were out dated. Last barn doors I saw for sale were 1200 and they were stuck. Now to hijack the thread if some one has some barn doors they don't want I would be willing to take them off your hands and tell everyone what a good fella you are.
FWIW, trying to make a Hilborn/Enderle/Jackson mechanical injection work for street driving is one of the hardest chores imaginable. Very, very few can make it work at all and even then, it's ragged, sucks fuel like it was free. They just weren't designed to do anything other than WOT. A guy I know paid big bucks to have a Hilborn converted to EFI. Worked pretty well, but the aluminum throttle bodies expand when the engine gets hot and the idle goes to hell. He tried to adjust them tighter in the bores and when the engine cooled down, the aluminum shrank and the blades stuck. jack vines
Mine has a -4AN feed with pump for a primer, the guy who set my setup raced for many years.... But still it was just to wild on the Street for me personally
I just bought this intake for 150.00 the way you see it, then gave it a little clean up for the pazazz. I bought the matching front cover here on the HAMB for a little less.
That is what makes the pete jackson units so nice, the throttle blades are farther away from the head and they are not as fussy when the engine warms up. When Mr Jackson designed his units it was with tunning in mind, no fiddling with the throttle blades in the staging lanes. At least that was the theory. One of the problems is that with a standard bypass it is all the way on or all the way off. Pete Jackson makes or made a stepped bypass. It gives you a sort of a mid range by pass as well as a high speed bypass. I have read although I haven't put it to practice that you can alter the amount of fuel for cruising by feathering the fuel shut off. I think that is what the fellas do that make it work on the street, major tunning in the first place of course and constant fiddleing until you leanr how to make it fly. It is just as big a paun on the track if you are going to get all it is willing to give you. They are just not plug and play. The learning curve is big but I suppose if mechanical injection is what you are after it is worth the effort. Next time I am rich I am going to get something to play with and play until I can't stand it any more.
The early Hilborn units ran angled stacks to utilize the full bell at the top and the racers ran a rock screen. Then K&N came up with the air filter that hose clamped to a tubular stack (without bell). It was after that that Hilborn made the stacks straight up and flattened one side of the bell and added pince clamps the the housing to which K&N made an air filter that you would push the stacks thru the top of the filter and installed a cover plate over it. The unit I have has been gone thru and operates smoothly, Its 2 3/16 and I made the stacks, I also have adapters that stand the stacks straight up.
I actually like the stacks all catty wampus. I would think that in place of clamp on filters a filtered air box would work real well, give you plenty of dead air around the stacks if it was built right.
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