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Vacuum Advance on multi carb 2.0 liter!! Any experts???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bonez, Sep 29, 2009.

  1. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,487

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Actually, half of my driving during the week, or maybe 3/4, its in darn traffic!!!:eek::eek:
    Its only during the week end that i take the car for a blast. Obviously w/
    the bad tune i have now this doesnt happen, but you got the point!
    Now about the maximum HP on the street, i totally agree w/ you, infact im
    doin this to have a car that is quick and nervous, im not plannin to build
    a "race car" as a daily.
    The day i will build one will be the day that i'll be racing for real.
    This one is gonna have the full treatment:Shiney Paint, full interior, bags
    or good and comfy LOW suspension, and on and on ......
    Im just startin w/ the most important stuff:
    THE ENGINE:D:D:D ...if you can call almost 3 years of work start:eek:

    Anyway,this is what i told Esslinger: "...Considering this is a street driven
    car, what do you suggest, a non vac. dizzy, or a vac. advance canister?
    Im also concerned at consumption, but mostly i want it to perform the
    best possible at low to mid range...."

    Answer was: "Nick,with the mikuni's you do not want to run vac.
    Just get the non vac dizzy.
    Thanks, Cary "

    Copied and pasted from my email account.
    Just to say that i fully understand the diffrence between a souped up
    street driver and a full blown race car, and the diffrent style of driving
    they are built to withstand.

    Simply, because i trust Esslinger's point of view, being the developer
    of the kit i run, but at the same time and at the same level i value all
    of you guys info and experience, the above mentioned answer confused me.

    Now, the main question was: Does anybody have experience w/ the Mallory Unilite? If so, i'd like to hear it.

    Thanx sooooooo much, Nick.
     
  2. Think of the vacuum advance unit as a vacuum retard.

    Nothing wrong with using a vacuum advance unit on a racer as the vacuum advance backs off as soon as the car starts pulling some rev's and in fact as soon as the throttle pedal is opened which drops manifold vacuum in milliseconds.

    I'd say that Esslinger is pretty familiar with their equipment and knows what works, but . . . with all the confusion about vacuum sources and how they really work, perhaps they tossed a non vacuum distributor onto a race motor, it ran better and they decided that vac advance was not the way to go.

    Easy enough to leave the vacuum line disconnected if you like....
     
  3.  
  4. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,487

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2009
  5. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,487

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    HI there, just wanted to give some updates.

    So, i made a very nice vacuum manifold and hookt it up......
    but result was anything but improvement!!!!!
    1st simptom was the throttle pedal/cable, that was sooooooo hard, almost
    impossible to push/pull! apparently to much vacuum.....
    2nd simptom is strictly related to the 1st!:D
    If managed to pull the throttle engine will die almost immediatley.

    Tried to retard and advance but no freakin way! almost no change!
    It took me a good while of work to build the manifold and was very pleased of the end result.
    It looked like a BIG fuel log and i was happy of having it there,
    unfortunateley i had to bin it!
    It looks to me at this point that the over 400 bucks mallory unilite
    or similar will be my best option!

    Anybody has anything to add?
     

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