Hello; I need some educational help here regarding the choice between building an earlier style 46/48 block versus he later 49/53 style. Once the bell housing adapter is installed, would they be identical - in theory? I have seen the later style cam and gear drive covers installed onto a 48, and again, what would be the benefit of this modification? Are the cylinder heads interchangeable, other than the water outlets locations? I am only looking for a great touring engine and not for burning rubber; I also plan on using one of the cornhusker style T-5 adapters & trans, but what do I do regarding the torque tube rear end - shorten the tube & driveshaft or go to an open drive shaft... but then I need to make radius rods etc. I am open to suggestions, as I really need to learn more about this before I jump in 100%. Thanks, Steve
Why don't you tell us what car and chassis you are using? Might make a difference how the engine fits.
I always preferred the 24 stud newer flatheads. The distributer is in a much more accessible location. The bearings are fixed not the full floaters the early engines had. Many had adjustable lifters. the mercury engines had a longer stroke and more cubes. I still have two 24 stud engines in the hoard. One has a cracked cyl wall and needs a sleeve. The other likely will need a overbore job.
The car is an original 1934 - 5 window coupe Hershey candidate from the late 80s and is a 2 owner car that was never hit, never rusted, and used as daily transportation for the original owner until he sold it in 1975!!!!! The chassis is original, the suspension is rebuilt, the brakes are currently the next item on the list for drivability ; F250 fronts with Buick 45 fin drums, and the rears are Lincolns with new drums and internals. I thought that the newer /later engines would be my best choice (no chevy 350) so I needed more information from you people with more experience and wisdom. What else can I say.....
Your best choice would be the early 59A 1948 and earlier flat head engine. The later 49 to 53 flat head is longer and radiator placement is now a problem. The early 59A flat head will bolt right in. A built 276 59A flat head (3 5/16 bore X 4 inch Merc crank) makes a great combination for street use. Heads will interchange from early to late, distributors too with a few modifications. The early intake manifolds work best on the 59A engines as you avoid the problems with the later style road draft tube. From your description of your 1934 coupe it sounds like you want to maintain the originality of your car and update the brakes and drive train to keep up with today's traffic. I like your idea of not putting a Chevy engine in your coupe and going with the flat head. It just keeps that original feel to the car.
Steve, If you want to run the original wire wheels (or Kelsey's) you might want to run the Lincoln brakes on the front also. The wire wheels will fit on the Lincoln drums with a simple adapter but if you run the F250 brakes I believe you will need a very thick adapter that will offset the wheels probably more than you would like. Check me out on the F250 brake comment as I am only about 90% sure I am right. Charlie Stephens
Being technically challenged, I have tried to post pictures and was not successful - I can walk and chew gum, but that has taken me nearly 70 years of practice - the front brakes are F250 backing plates which are self energizing and the drums are 45 fin aluminum and the spacers for the wire wheels should work fine as others have said to me. The current engine is a 36LB: runs well and is dressed quite nicely (trans is rebuilt also) but I am trying to set all of this up for a future change "if & when" something happens with the present drive train. I don't expect problems, but I have the time / space / extra $ to invest in the engine, so why not do it now - I can't take it with me and I would much rather drive it than be buried with it just sitting in the front seat for eternity The original (replacement) interior is extremely clean and solid, the black lacquer paint is breath taking as if it was shot 3 or 4 years ago and not the 34+ that it actually is, and everything was done to Hershey judging standards years ago, it has held up quite well. I bought all the pieces to rebuild the original steering box with the higher ratio 15 -1 worm & sector, and just finished installing seat belts after moving the seat back 5" and raising it up 3" (long legs..... ) I just completed repairs to a 39 banjo wheel and should get it hydro dipped around Christmas time, and the wood grain pattern I choose will also be the same one applied to all the garnish moldings and dash when I pull that to replace the tanks sending unit and gas gauge. I have no intentions of getting so far into this thing that I can't enjoy it, other than a day or two down time and then back on the road. I spent the majority of my life building cars for other people and setting aside my own projects for the "SOME DAY" when I will have more time (ya sure) and one day I just woke up and realized that I don't have enough life times to complete all the projects I had started and had stashed away - I SOLD OFF everything I owned, and only kept the model A' I was working on, then suddenly the opportunity for this completed 34 coupe came along and I changed directions in my life! I enjoy driving it I will ask the boys if they can help me load some pictures of this and let all of you enjoy it too. Thanks, Steve
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