I got this project I took in for a motorcycle as payment.I believe it's a V-8 60 Ford. It was installed ,very crudely, in a "display" belly tanker racer. I want to see the engine fire up for 30 seconds before getting serious.I build vintage race bikes and have done Chevy 6's. But this flattie Ford stuff is,well,different. I put a little oil in the cylinders and the engine turned over easy with the starter for the first time in 20 years. About 90 PSI compression. I see no timing marks ???? Using the compression gauge I got number one cylinder on the right side to show compression.Then I set up the distributor,off the engine,so the rotor lined up with number one on the right side cap. Then rotated the engine clockwise a bit until the distributor lined up. I numbered the plug wires from a confusing diagram on the internet..... Dumped some fuel down the carb,hot wired the coil and it fired a few times.....but didn't start. OK...anyone have a good ignition diagram showing a clear view of how the wires are arranged on the two distributor caps? And ...where is a port I can hook up an an oil pressure gauge? Thanks...
Can I have it when your done playing with it? Trade you some Cerianis for that OIF. The port for oil pressure should be at back of manifold. No timing marks.
Blowby,The OIF is the ECTA class record holder and runs nicely on the chrome Dunlaps Actually the Flattie engine isn't mine to trade..... Thanks for the diagram...
Distributor shaft is locked to cam position, so timing can ve set up off engine with rulers...I think I've posted a ruler method applicable to this style on here somewhere. Timing will be real close to correct, plenty for a trial setup, at center of the scale on side of distributor. Be sure the strange little spring that bears between coil and points is set in there happily. Likeliest failure points are condenser (hook up any condenser you have that is known good fro a temp replacement) and coil. Few early Ford coils are still usable...they can be rebuilt and plates are available to replace the whole lump with a hookup for a generic modern coil. Right now, try hooking the thing to 12v, which will sometimes scare a little life out of a nearly dead 4-6 volt coil. PS...you don't need to worry about what piston is where...drive slot on distributor/cam is offset so it goes only one way, registering it to the cam. Near center of slide scale will be real close to proper.
Heres where you hook up the oil presure gauge look at the rear of the intake manifold at the top of the intake you will see a hole thats where the oil sender hooks up. Like Bruce wrote use 12 volts that disrtibuter will work fine if the dual points are set correctyl and of course if the coil is any good.
Here's where you hook up the oil pressure gauge look at the rear of the intake manifold at the top of the intake you will see a hole that's where the oil sender hooks up. Like Bruce wrote use 12 volts that distributor will work fine if the dual points are set correctly and of course if the coil is any good. Your not seeing double I corrected some words but messed up posting it!
Thanks Bruce...The the offset shaft, like a Willys Jeep , I get it!.....I did get it to fire up by pouring some fuel down the carbs.Ran at a slow rpm for about 15 seconds.Sounded like all 8 were burning.....Showed 25 psi oil pressure on the gauge screwed into the port in the manifold. Should be ok if there's no nasty coolant leaking cracks. I have to come up with something to make this thing move and steer.It's not gonna be raced or driven more than for a few minutes...Looks like 30's Ford axle stuff but had hydraulic brakes and no springs... an no frame... Time to think about it for a week...
got a nice S-90.....just sayin'..... bs aside.....looks like a eally nice V-60... ps....do have an S-90....just sayin'....
Hmmm,I build vintage LSR race bikes.....But no interest in stuff like that..what else ya got to trade