Today the Lisle Ridge reamer arrived & after watching & reading a lot of information on this process, I thought I was ready. Unpacking the new item I noticed there was a plastic piece mounted at the bottom of the blade. It was held on pretty well so I assumed it should be there. Thus I started to use the tool, carefully & very gently. What I noticed is it’s cutting the top & Spears to be on its way to giving me a taper cut. I wouldn’t think a taper cut is ok, can anyone fill me in on this so I don’t ruin a block? Tool & plastic pad: Cutting at top only: The cutting edge against the top of cylinder but light below due to plastic pad holding edge off wall. Thus taper cut starting. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Guys, I cannot see how this ridge reamer will work correctly. I’ve looked at it over & over & when it’s in the cylinder it cuts at a taper. Why would they make a tool do such a thing to a cylinder wall? With the ridge about a 1/2” down the cylinder, I’d be taking off 1/16” at the top! That’s crazy & I assume I would ruin the block, if I am understanding things correctly.... Here’s what the taper would be if I used it as they recommend to use it.... Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I believe the plastic button is used to tilt the cutting blade into the ridge. Because of this, there will be a very slight taper cut to the ridge. The button on your tool is quite a bit taller than the one on my Lisle reamer. Measuring mine, I get around .020".
All it's supposed to do is take the ridge out. If it is flush it would cut where the rings seat. And by nature of it's design it probably will put a slight taper. Just don't let it cut below the ridge. Then smooth it with a hone. I never really liked a ridge reamer and if there is much of a ridge you probably need to bore it. If you are just doing an economy rebuild clean out the ridge hone it and run it.
Doublepumper, I thought about what you said about your plastic piece being 0.020” on your Lisle Reamer. Thus, I took my razor blade to the plastic piece & cut it down to less than 0.015”. Then I said F it & started cutting with it. I took off 60-70% of the ridge to play it somewhat safe. Here’s what I’ve got now. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
There's a BIG difference in "rebuilding" VS "overhauling" an engine. A rebuilding, or what most refer to as a ring and bearing job, is no where close to a complete re-machining of all the blocks surfaces, and replacing worn out parts with oversize/undersize, new or remanufactured parts. Removing the ridge is really only done so the pistons can be removed from the block without damaging the ring lands of the pistons, when the pistons need to be re-used. And of course, you get what you pay for. I have a couple of ridge reamers, one of those reamers really needs to be tossed in the scrap barrel; I have a 350, 4 bolt main, SBC block, that I wonder IF it will be usable as is, after I removed the ridge, and probably too much "more" at the top of the cylinder. I do have 2 sets of 350, forged, .030 over flat top/2 valve relief, TRW pistons; they are marked FOR EXPORT ONLY (2 eyebrow reliefs, but not a racing piston), to use with that block. It was supposed to be what I call, a welfare motor; now it'll be a Rockefeller motor with new pistons and all. It's easy to get carried away when removing the ridge. I've found, that like with most things automotive, to use LUBRICATION, so the cutter does't "chatter". Chatter just makes it unclear about where you want to stop cutting, and to clean all the block surfaces of rust/scale/grease/crud. And, EXPERIENCE also helps, a LOT. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
I've used one of these for 55 years..all its meant to do is deridge the top of the worn cylinder so the pistons and rings can be removed so the ring lands dont get damaged....it cuts from the inside of the cylinder up...NOT from the top of the cylinder down.....when you set the tool against the cylinder wall. ie; just touching ..wind it out and it will shave the ridge off as it comes out the cylinder ...easy peasy.....
There’s a few different styles of ridge cutters out there. Made and work completely different. This a lathe style - Clamps into cylinder, Adjustable cutter head for bore size Cutter has 3 positions for set up Cuts from bottom up Rides up on the threads as turned
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