Hot Rods Uneven 4 bar radius rods options

I have a 1934 pickup with an odd 4 bar radius rod setup. The top rod is 2" longer then the bottom. I would think that when the suspension cycles thru it would bind when asked to go up. I want to change the 4 bar to hairpins. Can I use the existing batwings for a new hairpin setup or should they be replaced? Do I also need to install a panhard bar for the hairpins?

 

Hairpins will bolt straight into your batwings. If the rod ends on the 4 bars are straight, no angle, use those also.
Panhard. I'd test drive 1st, most times a panhard isn't required. Others will chime in stating a panhard as mandatory.

 

Here's a good place to start!
http://www.peteandjakes.com/Catalog3.aspx

 

I don't really see how you think this is "going to bind up".

 

Wow. That configuration would cause the axle to rock awkwardly due to different arcs putting unnecssary tension on batwings, perch mounts and shackles! Install your hairpins with correct caster and you might get away with lower mounting point.

 

I doubt if the amount of length difference will amount to any worry, the axle in plain fact really doesn't move that much.

 

I would be surprised if you even lost 1 degree of caster at full jounce.

 

Hairpins will be set up at different lengths also --That's how your 5-7* axle caster is adjusted. Top dimension is shorter than the bottom to obtain the "kick" out.
Batwings will work fine, usually with front clevises and a rear tie rod end ( my choice- they're sealed and have a grease zerk) or a rod end.
Good luck with it.

 

I would think that it is totally dependent on the hairpin. If it fits the batwing then there is no reason that it won't work.

On my A I am using the 4 bar mounts (crappy setup) to mount my ladder bars, a ladder bar is just a souped up hairpin. granted I am building my own and they will have to be built to fit the 4link mounts.

 

That appears to be a setup where the upper bar is welded to a bracket that has the frame pivot, and has the lower bar attached to it.

If that is the case, despite the crude looks, what you see here is nothing more than a hairpin. No more, no less.

I would buy a pair of proper hairpins, with frame brackets, and have them welded on by a competent welder.

 

Can we get a close-up, focused, picture of this?

 

And your tie-rod clamp has no bolt. You might be driving towards death.

 

Looks like jam nut is there

 

If there is a slot cut in the tube to accommodate clamping via that disused clamp, then that jam jut is a liability, not a benefit.

Driving a jam-nut down on a tube with a slot cut in it will cause the tube to spread, the threads to wallow, and catastrophic failure to occur.

 

I don't think it is a rocker arm hairpin as gimpy has suggested.
Also this will not "Bind" anymore than a hairpin. The odd thing is that as it compresses the front suspension it will decrease Caster, where as a hairpin will increase caster.
Neither of those mounting location will be proper for a hairpin conversion - it will require a new mount (one is too high, the other is too low)

 

ABSOLUTELY!

 

Yes..I was giving benefit to doubt that the clamp was actually for a steering damper and the tube is not slotted; since I couldn't see a slot I didn't assume there is one..

 

You're probably right. Although a close-up picture would set the record straight.

If it is a 4-bar, just with unequal length bars, being a cheap-ass myself., I would shorten and re-tap the upper bars, and re-mount them.

 

Thanks I don't have it on road yet. It's also a solid rod not split.

 

Close ups certainly shed light. The rod ends are angled so they go out in the, for sale pile. Unless you don't mind running the batwings on an angle. Looks so wrong. And as alluded, a new mounting point for hairpin as they are in most applications, a fair bit longer than (street rod) 4 bars. (looks opinion).
The smaller schedule tube used for 4-bar and hairpins with rod ends at both front and rear, allows a certain amount of flex between mounting point and axle.
I would consider changing rear rod end to a tie rod on my pins. Why.
Brothers roadster has split bones with rear rod end, and with each drive, one jam nut loosens with travel. i'm guessing the other is trying to tighten. But obviously you wont get a bone to flex. He needs tie rods.
Definitely a dampener clamp in pic. Guess it wasn't driving too flash.

 

I was thinking to use a dropped '34/'34 axle and hairpins on my coupester, but I am REALLY thinking I GOTTA do the traditional Ford tie rod four bar. It would just be SO MUCH more fun at runs and shows...

 

The Bat Wings are always at a wider distance than the ends of the hairpins, bones or 4 bar. The Bat Wings will always be angled inward to an extent. On a hairpin or 4 bar, the angled rod ends are the Best way to mount, otherwise you have to angle the mounts to the frame and that looks much worse. I do agree that I like the look of tie rod ends on split bones, and they work flawlessly in that application. As for 4 bars being too street roddy, I guess no one told Jake