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Uncle Ricks 33 Plymouth Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by raymay, Mar 15, 2012.

  1. raymay
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 2,045

    raymay
    Member

    Ron, we were wondering when you would notice the body was a 34. If I remember correctly you used to do a little mix and match on some of the ones you built.
    As you know I was really born a Chevy guy, but I can spot a nice Mopar. Hell I even started building one once (your Big Red Kingcab body) and you traded me for a 37 Chevy Coupe. Looking back I really don't see many of my builds exactly as they originally were. I prefer seeing them as my own vision.
    Ricks got a good vision (and a sense of his budget) going on this one. I am glad to be helping with the creativity.
     
  2. moparron426
    Joined: Aug 25, 2005
    Posts: 662

    moparron426
    Member

    Eva's car was a 34 sedan with 33 front fenders and nose.
    my brothers 32 ply sedan used a 33 nose as well:D:)
    just a little mix and match to make the car just the way you like:cool:

    you know whats funny I recently sold a 33 coupe to a guy out here
    and he found and bought all the fenders, hood(from someone here on the HAMB) and grill shell for a 34 ply to do his coupe... Ron.....
     
  3. Djlcm5
    Joined: Nov 26, 2013
    Posts: 2

    Djlcm5
    Member
    from Illinois

  4. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,488

    farmer12
    Member

    Agree. Looking good.
     
  5. moparron426
    Joined: Aug 25, 2005
    Posts: 662

    moparron426
    Member

    OK Rick and Ray, got any new progress pictures of the car???
    in a few months I am going to start building the 33 coupe we have(it is RJ's but I get to do it for me and leave it to him):)
    mine is going on 32 ford frame rails with a chrome front axle, it will be fenderless. 440 6 pack and narrowed 8 3/4 rear end with 18' wide Pro Trac tires with salt flat wheels.. Ron...
     
  6. PWSteve
    Joined: Oct 16, 2012
    Posts: 5

    PWSteve
    Member

    I am a new member and I have just viewed your build and I must say you guys are impressive! I have just acquired a 33 Plymouth 5W Coupe in parts and pieces. I hope to build mine like Moparron426, fender less but with a little extra inner rear wheel well work.
    Is there somewhere in can get body mount hole dimension info? I do not have a floor or braces. I will need to fab a frame and would like to do my homework before I start.
    Again Great Build, Steve
     
  7. raymay
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 2,045

    raymay
    Member

    Time is sometimes limited but we have been making progress. I have been trying to get some stuff done on my 66 Wagon 2door conversion project and the other E-Bay barn projects we have.
    On the 33 we finally selected the correct amount of leafs for the rear springs. Did not like the sloppy spring pad setup that was in the car. Greg Schoene designed and made Rick a new pair and helped reset the correct pinion angle. Rearend is in for hopefully the last time. Rick also modified the gas tank brackets and we installed the tank again hopefully for the last time. We like the way the car sits. With added weight when it is completed we expect it to drop a little more.
    We got the angle pieces for the hood and started fitting everything in place. The plan is to have a one piece top similar to what he did in his 29. Some modification on the grille shell needs to be done first.

    Nice to hear you are building another car. Keep us posted on the progress. Rick has a new 33 fiberglass hood and trunk deck available if you or anyone else is interested.

    IMG_3715.JPG IMG_3713.JPG IMG_3714.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2016
  8. notaford1
    Joined: Feb 6, 2012
    Posts: 174

    notaford1
    Member
    from webster ny

    Sorry for the delay,we got busy and I forgot to check for you.Let me know if you still need any measurements,because besides my own car a second 33 coupe was just brought in the shop.Between the 2 I'm sure we can find any measurement you need....Rick
     
  9. PWSteve
    Joined: Oct 16, 2012
    Posts: 5

    PWSteve
    Member

    Hi Rick
    I am interested in the body mounting holes within the interior. My coupe body does not have a floor from the cowl back to the very rear. It has a strip of remaining floor metal on each side with two holes on each side. I have seen as I am researching that there is a support across the back two holes. The measurements I need are across these two sets of holes to see if there is any spreading and also are there any mounting areas on the underside of the lower back part of the body. Thank you for all your help, Steve
     
  10. raymay
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 2,045

    raymay
    Member

    Our project also had no floor so the mounting holes in the original frame became our best guide for setting our mounting points.

    I was at the barn today and took a couple of quick measurements inside an original 33 Plymouth Coupe we picked up last week. I drew a diagram of what I found. When I checked them against our 33 build, I found we did locate our mounts with the same dimensions.
    Hope this helps answer some of your questions.
    If Rick and I get a chance on Sunday we can get the original 33 on the lift and check the underside.

    33floor.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2016
  11. charliechaindrive
    Joined: Dec 6, 2011
    Posts: 70

    charliechaindrive
    Member
    from staples mn

    Sweeeet prewar mopar!!
     
  12. raymay
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 2,045

    raymay
    Member

    Rick and I put the other 33 on the lift and got you some more information from this original body and frame. The diagram is rough but gives you an idea of where the mounting locations are.
    We found 7 mounting points on each side. 3 are on brackets outside the frame rails. The other 4 go thru the center of the frame rails. I have marked the distance apart except for the last one in the rear where I could not get a good measurement. This one is mounted where the frame and floor pan kick back down toward the rear of the car.

    The outside measurement of the frame rails from front to rear are as follows:
    32 3/4" across the front of frame
    28 1/2" at center of front wheels
    32 1/2" at cowl
    37 3/8" at B-pillar
    41" at center of rear wheels
    44 1/4" across the back of frame

    Being that your car still has a top, hopefully you will not have as much side to side flex with the body as we initially found with ours. We had one mounting hole and part of another visible near the B-pillar. Once we determined the width across from the existing frame mounts, we did bend up a floor brace to go across in that area. We duplicated this method across 3 mounting points inside the passenger part of the body. For the rear section We built a square stock tubular frame that centered on the frame rails. It is attached to the body and is drilled at the mounting points in the frame. Once in place we were able to attached our floor to this frame work as well. Our framework combined with the body cross braces between the passenger and trunk areas of the car made a big difference in the support and rigidity of our body.
    Again I hope our information is helpful for your build.





    scan0005.jpg 3314.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2016
    tb33anda3rd and kidcampbell71 like this.
  13. PWSteve
    Joined: Oct 16, 2012
    Posts: 5

    PWSteve
    Member

    Thank you so much. I can't tell you how great you guys are for taking the time to do this for me. I hope I can return the favor someday. I should be able to get started with the dimensions you have provided.

    Thank you very much, Steve :)

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  14. notaford1
    Joined: Feb 6, 2012
    Posts: 174

    notaford1
    Member
    from webster ny

    In the last couple of weeks I have acquired front and rear steel fenders...so I now have quite a pile of new fiberglass parts. There are front and rear fenders,hood top,rumble seat lid,front fender braces.If anyone is interested you can email me at notaford1@yahoo.com. Some buddies are going to the upcoming Carlise swap meet and could bring the parts with them if need be.
     
  15. notaford1
    Joined: Feb 6, 2012
    Posts: 174

    notaford1
    Member
    from webster ny

    securedownload (5).jpg securedownload.jpg securedownload (3).jpg securedownload (2).jpg securedownload (4).jpg Here are some updated pics with the steel fenders and the hood hinge
     

    Attached Files:

    dwollam and kidcampbell71 like this.
  16. mikeallcars
    Joined: Feb 16, 2012
    Posts: 1,318

    mikeallcars
    Member

    Looking really good !
     
  17. I'm a Chevy guy at heart but a 33 Ply is tough to beat. Nice work!


    Dustin
     
  18. Very nice work guys. When do we get to see her out in the light and fully dressed?
     
  19. notaford1
    Joined: Feb 6, 2012
    Posts: 174

    notaford1
    Member
    from webster ny

    Probably not until next summer...got lots left to do with limited time and I already have a ride driving the crap out of my 29 Dodge sedan..but the more that gets done the more anxious I am to get it finished.
     
  20. raymay
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 2,045

    raymay
    Member

    We are still banging away getting the steel fenders back is shape and they are looking very nice. Well worth the effort. We also started fitting the side aprons and the steel running boards. Last week I found a way to replace the fiberglass rear roll pan.
    We had a 70 ElCamino quarter panel and I noticed the body curve was similar to the Plymouth roll pan. Using the fiberglass part as a template I was able to copy the shape by cutting the curved area out of the GM quarter. I did have to split it to accommodate for an slight additional curve across the back of the body. We still have to make our bumper bracket holes in the rear fenders. After that we can do a final re-sizing of the sides and roll the bottom of the rear pan as well as position our mounting holes.

    0611141528.jpg IMG_4277.JPG
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2016
  21. jed85
    Joined: Jun 20, 2011
    Posts: 5

    jed85
    Member
    from california

    Hi, I am restoring a 1933 dodge rumble seat cabriolet. Do you have any Sheetmetal or brackets from the backend leftover?
    Thanks,
    Mike
     
  22. notaford1
    Joined: Feb 6, 2012
    Posts: 174

    notaford1
    Member
    from webster ny

    All I really have extra are the rumble seat hinges used almost everything else...I do have rear frame cover but its fiberglass.........let me know if you have interest...........Rick
     
  23. PWSteve
    Joined: Oct 16, 2012
    Posts: 5

    PWSteve
    Member

    Hello Rick
    I am interested in the hinges. Are they complete with the body side parts? Price? Shipping?
    Thanks again Steve

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  24. notaford1
    Joined: Feb 6, 2012
    Posts: 174

    notaford1
    Member
    from webster ny

    Yes the body half and the lid half are both there I'll get some pics ....you can PM me ford my email...thank s RM
     
  25. Mopar Jack
    Joined: Jan 24, 2010
    Posts: 1,337

    Mopar Jack
    Member

    If you still have these(rumble hinges),I would be interested,how much and shipping to 62234...thank you...
     
    hot-rod 33 likes this.
  26. notaford1
    Joined: Feb 6, 2012
    Posts: 174

    notaford1
    Member
    from webster ny

    Sorry they sold..when to california in July...still have a ton off leftover fiberglass stuff if anyone is in need ...thanks
     
  27. raymay
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 2,045

    raymay
    Member

    Despite this record cold winter, Rick and I still manage to get some stuff done on his 33 Plymouth build. All the steel fenders we acquired are fitted and the patching and dent repair has begun. We also met a guy at the Syracuse Nationals who had a nice set of steel running boards with the rubber so we have changed them out.
    I modified an original lower air flow guard below the radiator and made another for the top. Still need to make some small ones for the sides. These will help the air flow go directly toward the radiator.
    Getting the hood hinge mechanism to fit correctly was a little more challenging than the directions implied. I lost count how many times we had that hood on and off and all the re-working involved. The good news is it now fits and appears to work fine.
    Rick has been busy taking the body down to bare metal, fixing a few dents and putting a protective coat of primer in the body parts. This has been helpful in showing where we will need body filler and what areas may need more attention.
    It has come a long way since we started. No more comments from friends like "are you guys nuts", "what the hell you think you can make out of that pile of scrap metal". Now they ask "when are you going to start it up", "will you have it on the road this year".
    Detroit Autorama is coming up soon. Rick and I like to go each year for some inspiration and maybe a few creative ideas we can use on our builds.

    3371.jpg 3372.JPG 3373.JPG 3374.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2015
  28. Suthunman
    Joined: Jun 28, 2015
    Posts: 115

    Suthunman

    All I can say is WOW.........you guys have some patience and skills to go with it. Very nice build!
     
  29. raymay
    Joined: Mar 2, 2008
    Posts: 2,045

    raymay
    Member

    Our progress continues.
    Exhaust system is fabricated and installed, I used steel rod to remake the missing rolled edges for the bottoms of the front fenders and Rick got some 29 Dodge running board braces to work for supporting the 33 steel boards. He has also started some body work on areas of the car where we have finished our fabrication.
    Syracuse Nationals is coming up soon where we usually find inspiration and good ideas. Last year we met a guy who hooked us up with some nice parts for Ricks car.

    IMG_5691.JPG IMG_5690.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2015
    tb33anda3rd, racer-x and dwollam like this.
  30. Clevername
    Joined: Feb 18, 2011
    Posts: 306

    Clevername
    Member
    from Austin, TX

    Keep it up guys, lot of hard work in there!
     

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