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Technical U-joint correct placement on Chevy truck power steering box

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bantam, Sep 23, 2018.

  1. bantam
    Joined: Oct 16, 2006
    Posts: 297

    bantam
    Member

    Hi guys -

    I picked up a 1950 GMC COE with a Chevy truck front suspension and steering box. Going over the work done by the previous owner and saw that the u-joint attached to the steering box was sloppy.

    As shown in the first picture below, the ujoint only connects to the front set of splines on the steering box shaft. The set screw does no fit into the groove between the two sets of splines. However, this provides for an air gap between the end of the steering box shaft and the cross bar inside the u-joint. Steering feels good but the ujoint wobbles/sloppy where it connects to the steering box shaft.

    2A89A4C1-42D2-4E2D-B771-1CBA72BBAF72.jpeg

    As shown in this next photo if I slide the ujoint back further onto the box so that it also engages the splines closest to the steering box body and the set screw fits into the groove between the two sets of splines, the gap between the end of the steering box shaft and the cross bar in the u-joint is eliminated. These two items now touch and it actually makes it hard to steer due to this interference. You can feel it when you turn the wheel. That said the ujoint is very secure on the steering box shaft.


    0D53127A-9979-4A8C-8372-B414BA9A5B86.jpeg


    Questions:

    1. Is it correct that the ujoint should be slide back so that it contacts both sets of splines and the set screw fits into the slot?

    2. Is there a ujoint out there that is longer to engage both sets of splines and yet still have room between end of steering box shaft and u-joint cross bar?

    3. Can I grind 1/8” off the end of the steering box shaft to eliminate the interference between the steering box shaft and the cross bar inside the ujoint?

    Thanks -

    Bantam
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  2. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 1,033

    goldmountain

    I would cut the 1/8" off the shaft. That little nub really doesn't do anything.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    egads likes this.
  3. AngleDrive
    Joined: Mar 9, 2006
    Posts: 691

    AngleDrive
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Florida

     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 43,459

    squirrel
    Member

    that little shaft is the end of the torsion bar for the spool valve, isn't it? :)
     
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  5. R Pope
    Joined: Jan 23, 2006
    Posts: 3,310

    R Pope
    Member

    The shaft contacting the U-joint is going to stop the joint from flexing properly. Grind it shorter.
     
  6. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 16,176

    gimpyshotrods
    Member

    Yes.
     
  7. BJR
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 5,823

    BJR
    Member

    I have ground them off in the past, no problems.
     
  8. oldtom69
    Joined: Dec 6, 2009
    Posts: 412

    oldtom69
    Member
    from grandin nd

    always cut off end of the spool valve with no issues
     
  9. bantam
    Joined: Oct 16, 2006
    Posts: 297

    bantam
    Member

    Thanks for the responses, albeit some mixed opinions.

    So, I take it no one can identify a u-joint that would accommodate without grinding the shaft down?

    Bantam
     
  10. oldtom69
    Joined: Dec 6, 2009
    Posts: 412

    oldtom69
    Member
    from grandin nd

    there are some truck and bus u-joints that GM uses that don't need the shaft cut off,but they large and butt ugly
     
  11. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 43,459

    squirrel
    Member

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