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Technical Two questions

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 34Larry, Jul 10, 2020.

  1. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,657

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Didn't you read my answer? USE THE BOLTS RECOMMENDED BY THE ENGINE MANUFACTURER. Some engines require strong bolts, some engines with aluminum heads require special weak bolts that stretch. If OEM bolts are too expensive use aftermarket ones made for the same application.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.

  2. I use grade 8 only for engines......ARP is my preference. Remember that all grade 8 hardware is not equal.......almost all offshore stuff is low quality steel heat treated to grade 8 tensile strength, very brittle........bad stuff. Most U.S. grade 8 products also have high fracture toughness.......which is what you want in rotating machinery......and any other critical/safety application. Cheap out and risk your life!!
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  3. Roger O'Dell
    Joined: Jan 21, 2008
    Posts: 1,150

    Roger O'Dell
    Member

    I would wait to get the right hardware , hurry equals sloppy. If the engine is special I use studs on main caps, oil pump, heads, rockers an a couple on each side of head for exhaust for ease of installation. If not special I try to reuse most if not all of removed hardware. And fram was one of my took care of me while racing. But my cabinet has fram wix, and Napa oil filters. As well as fuel filters again depends on application.
     
    ekimneirbo likes this.
  4. ekimneirbo
    Joined: Apr 29, 2017
    Posts: 4,217

    ekimneirbo

    You say "what grade 8s do we use on an engine build"? Well if you are talking about the internal engine assembly, you should either reuse the OEM bolts or upgrade with a higher quality ARP bolt,nut,or stud. As for attaching the outer engine components and accessories, the OEM bolts or at least grade 5 from Tractor Supply. There are a few other brands dedicated engine bolts and studs like Pioneer but I don't know about their quality.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  5. deucemac
    Joined: Aug 31, 2008
    Posts: 1,483

    deucemac
    Member

    I worked at a Ford dealership and ran the dyno. We were at the back counter of the parts department and the Motorcraft rep was there. Everybody had an opinion on which oil filter was the best. The rep took us out to the lube rack and proceeded to cut open two 30 gallon drums full of take off oil filters. Two stood out for quality, consruction, and amount of filter medium inside the filter cartridge. They were Motorcraft and Wix. The others were way off and some had so little pleated medium, it shocked most of us. There were about 5 or 6 of us there and although the lube guys thought we were nuts, everybody except for the rep, learned lots about oil filter construction. So, even today I use Wix or Motorcraft only. Some ofnyhenFr
     
  6. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    Tehachapi Cal...……….been through your neck of the woods a lot and stayed overnight coming and going from Az. snowbirding many many times. That run down the hill into Bakersfield can be exciting. Once saw a 40 foot MH hit the inside barrier at about 65/70 going down that road, well brush it anyway. Guy in his late 70's I guess lost it for a while but regained control. Sure tore up some sheet metal though.

    What you say here should make everyone shudder thinking about oil filters and what passed into our motors in the past years.
     
    chryslerfan55 likes this.
  7. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,444

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    New color, Green.. Really! Has the locking of Red but the removal ease of Blue.
     
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  8. OLDSMAN
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,422

    OLDSMAN
    BANNED

    NAPA gold is a wix filter, I don’t think we have a parts store in town that sells wix, so I use the NAPA gold filters.
     
  9. I use Wix myself. I just went through the stock pile of filters (oil and fuel)for my assorted cars, bike and mower.
    A few were made in the US, a few were assembled here with no country of origin. My go to hot rod 33033 was made in China and my 33003 filter was made in Russia of all places. The filters that were made in the US were a year or two old, the others were recent purchases. Damn, even the mighty have fallen. I will continue to use them but my pride in ownership just took a hit.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2020
    427 sleeper and Boneyard51 like this.
  10. jimmy six
    Joined: Mar 21, 2006
    Posts: 14,802

    jimmy six
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Eventho I don't use many because I go to my stash. Grade 2 cap screws are plenty good for intakes, water pumps, PS pump brackets, etc and I do use them not wanting to waste higher rated ones; same for fuel pumps, their back plates, distributor hold downs, rocker covers, and six cylinder side plates. Since they are cad plated with no marks and depending on the engine, I'll polish the heads and clear coat them with a bottle of it I have.
    For the most part I don't need to buy much any more because like many I coffee caned the old ones and wire brushed and sorted them years ago. I worked for a power company for 45 years and we never stocked anything under a 5. Allen socket heads were 8's and we had stainless but I always felt they were the soft ones.

    Other subject... Wix on my race engines (they have a race engine one) and wife's Hondas. Motorcraft on all Fords.....they reject anything else:rolleyes:.

    On the Oberg, I've used one I bought for my GMC racing engine a few times but taking it apart after every run became more of a pain so I stopped. I also ran a System One for a few years but they could only stop the big chunks even with the smaller screens.
     
    Last edited: Jul 16, 2020
  11. 34Larry
    Joined: Apr 25, 2011
    Posts: 1,701

    34Larry
    Member

    I like this, but have not seen or heard of the "green". I'll look for it, and thanks for the info.
     
  12. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You don't "need" grade 8 on anything on a strictly street car except suspension and steering.
    having the correct diameter bolt for the job you are asking it to do is far more important than grade of bolt in a lot of cases when you are fabbing something up. That doesn't mean that you can't use them if it makes you feel better though.

    I've seen guys make special trips to town to buy grade 8 bolts to bold inner fenders to the fenders where there is no stress at all thinking that they needed stronger bolts there. On the other hand I have seen guys who just dig a bolt out of the bolt bucket in the corner and stick it in as long as it is the right diameter, thread and length without a thought as to what grade it was and was it proper for the job.

    The biggest killer of correct size bolts no matter what the grade is is an impact wrench rattling them down until they are stressed beyond capacity. That or the guy with the big breaker bar that reefs on them rather than torques them.
     
    ekimneirbo and jimmy six like this.

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