did a search, not much luck. still have an issue. i dont have the giant c clamp shown in the green bible. haha take a look and lend me your thoughts on a course of action. thanks guys! top gap is consistent and lines up well enough vertically. body line, lines up but there is a serious issue with the curve on the door and the curve on the quarter panel matching up. door sticks out past the lower quarter panel. starts having an issue about half way up the door. (chips are from using the body hammer, theres not really any filler in there...yet haha) measurements side to side and in the door frame match those in the green bible. all body mounts/biscuits are there and new. no serious amounts of mud in the area. hinges are new and tight. this door is NOT original to this car. it's a replacement. there is no weather-striping in it right now. if i push in the lower corner to mate up, then the rest of the door does not line up,it becomes lower than the quarter panel. i can weld, i can measure, im not afraid to cut metal up. any thoughts?
2x4 and a hammer but you have to be very carefull not to dent the shit out of the door after all the skin is just where the door frame tells it to be so lay your 2x4 agenst the door and try to hit at the edge of the door and lots of small hits are way better than one big one it will take some time but you can massage the door to fit then see how your door gap is
hey paulie, i had the same problem on my shoebox (same side too) and after trying everything else i ended up cutting a thin slice in the door frame from the bottom about half way up the back edge and from the same point half way forward underneath the door. then got inside while someone outside pushed the outer frame enough to close the small gap just cut and tacked it in place. this pulled the bottom corner in flush with the rocker and quarter and slight enough that it did not alter the window track inside the door. wish i knew how to post pics. hope this makes sense. good luck, jerseymike
Chris Casny has gathered all the information you need here Hopefully there maybe something to help you, I dont have a shoebox but kept this because its old school body work stuff.
Thanks Big Creep, I didn't know that. Guess I was to eager to help and didn't read the original post properly!
Hey, Does the door fit well at the leading edge where it meets the fender at the skirt area? If not, adjust the lower hinge inboard to close gap at bottom of door. If the door fits well at the fender, but not at the B Post try this: Cut a 2''X4'' 'bout 6'' long and scribe the radius of the quarter panel across it, the quarter being the shape the door needs to match . Cut the scribed block and position it in the door opening at the low point in the arch of the door frame. Close the door on the block, and force the door against the block whyle pushing against the lower portion of the door, the area sticking outboard at the lower area just above the rocker. Don't slam the door at first, but provide controled pressure all the whyle watching for any change in the shape of the door shell. You may well have to tape the block into place and close the door upon it, whyle spring hammering the lower door area into place with a block of wood and a bfh. Some hammering may well be necessary above and below the low area where the block in positioned. If neither of these methods work fully, metal surgery may be your answer. " Humpty Dumpty was pushed "
Hi Paulie. I'm no expert, but I have a shoebox with the exact same problem. I've been told its the hinges need new pins by the shoeboxford.com guys, so that's what I'm doing. That upper gap isn't caused by a sagging hinge or one needing adjusted? Have youasked the guys at shoeboxford.com what they think? They'll have some good ideas for sure.
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