TURKEY CALL!! novembers 4-banger meeting

There are several different kinds of electric tachometers, such as the electro-magnetic, the electro-mechanical, and the electro-photo.

In car electro-magnetic tachs date back to at least circa 1910-11. One was made in 1910 by the Electric Speedometer and Dynamometer Manufacturing Company. This read off the wheel and was really more of a speedometer. However, in 1911, they adapted the technology to read off the rotation of the engine and created a real electro-magnetic tachometer.

I don't know if it was the first (I doubt it), but circa 1949-50, Stewart Company had an electro-magnetic tach that read off the distributor, by having a ring mounted under the distributor cap.

 

O K try this,. When I was learning to operate screw machines in the "50"s there was an old engineer working part time on his own projects for the mechanical restorations on old Mercedes engines for people restoring these cars. When he received his degree in 1910 he was hired to develop a race car for a firm that manufactured gasoline engines for the industry. He said that racing was the best form of advertising at that time. Back to the subject of tachometers, he stated that there were no reliable tachs or speedometers at that time. So this is how they tuned and checked for improvements. They would station the apprentice mechanics 100 yards apart for a given distance on a suitable road and give the apprentices each a stop watch. when they started the car from a dead stop or rolling start they would fire a hand gun into the air and all watches would be started and as the car reached each apprentice they would stop their watch and when finished the results would be analyzed. This way they knew at which point or points there was improvement or not In the lab they had some sort of strobe light device.

 

I finally got around to assembling my B. I lapped the valves, re-rung the pistons, honed it, checked all clearences, and started putting it all back togeather. The engine was really low miled, and had nearly no wear at all. I did decide on a Winfield cam and a set of adjustable lifters (thanks William!), other than that, all the internals were left as-is.

 

Good move Chris. What clearance you got on the rear main babbit? It makes a world of difference when it comes to oil leaks. Keeping it simple should bring miles of smiles!

 

I have about 2.5-3 thousands clearence on the main caps. My Dad has a machine shop, and has built these for years, and he's helping me a lot on it (Thank God!!!!!!! )

Got the shirt by the way-Love it! matter-o-fact, wearing it right now. I need to get one for my brother and Dad for Christmas. Got a Large and X-Large left? (banger shirts)

 

I think I have a thou on mine, but i can't remember for sure. It doesn't leak but a dime tops on shutoff. Used to leak like a sieve. I got shirts just pm me with the specifics, I am glad you got the shirts and like em.

 

Tidy looking banger you got there, Chris. The cam and head will liven it up good. What induction you gonna use?

 

Hi all ,first post to the banger club so i should intro first
..from the bottom side of Australia {victoria} and playing around with a 30 A highboy ,basicly stock ,hydralic brakes drop axle twin side-draught S.U.s just a bit of fun!! Just picked up a b model head and thinking of fitting a early v8 water pump .I can make an adapter
no worries but wondered what you guys use for a fan?
thanks.. Brett

 

Thanks Artiki, I have a burns dual with a couple 81's for it, along with a header.

 

We put the engine back togeather exactly how it came apart, and thats the clearance it had. I tried removing a 2 thou shim, wich would leave about 1 thousands clearance, and it was really tight. With how it is now, it feels really good. Guess we'll just have to see if it leaks (crossing fingers now)

 

My model a book states (Les Andrews) .001-.015 is ok. .0015 leaks from my experience. I plastigaged mine at .001 and went for it. No leakage.

 

I just plastiguaged mine, and it's just barley over .02, so I guess we'll see. It wasn't leaking before hand, I simply took it apart, cleaned it, slapped it back togeather. My luck it won't leak when I run it in this weekend on the stand....but will when it's in the car

 

yeaaaa
i can finally join in on the 4 banger fun
we scored well at mitchell
we now have model b motors coming out of our butts
and i bought one from a scrapper guy that has spins over freely
that one cost me a cool $200 (it was right in front of the muntz)
now all i need is a 34 ford to put one in and all will be well
tom

 

How about a bit of video of it on the stand this weekend? Be nice to see and hear it run...

 

A little oil is ok and your clearances sound great. It's just driveways that get the brunt of it.

 

Artiki, Yeah, I'll do a vid and post it. I pretty excited to say the least

Sawracer, thanks for the positive thoughs. I don't mind a little oil stain here and there

 

Cool! Look forward to that.

Changing the subject a little...any of you banger guys ever see a copper Winfield head before?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9999...oryZ6057QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Man I'm so happy with my brakes...I used the plans by Dick Sparks..I found a machime shop that fabbed it all for $160.. I's so happy to get this past on my 29 RPU

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=215063<!-- / message --><!-- sig -->

 

A friend of mine is running a Schneider Cast Iron 5.5 head on a cam'd, bigger (flathead V8 valve) banger motor.

he is being told that he must run a "special" head gasket, something other than what is available with this head. Is this true?

Can the typical copper gasket be used?

Also, this is a fresh rebuilt motor, and within the past few weeks he noticed that the motor runs cherry under normal driving conditions, but when he hits a hill climb, it burbs back through the radiator. Not a whole lot, but a splash of radiator fluid through the radiator cap on the hood. Any ideas what this could be...airbubble in the head maybe? He's afraid that he has a possible blown head gasket; but no oil in the pan or "wet" looking plugs.

This "special" head gasket is like a fel pro piece with the black rubber that surrounds each cylinder. New for me, I always use the traditional copper type.

Any additional info / help on this would be great.

 

I've been having a few glitches with mine this month. First is the crap in the tank has got the better of me so I've arranged to meet someone at a mate's house and I'm going to do hime a straight swap. His nice shiny inside tank for my horrible rusty inside tank. He just needs the filler neck and has agreed to swap me. Result!

Second up is I checked my ignition and it's got a bit of play in the rotor arm, but it's coming up from the drive gear I think. I checked with the supplier and they make a new one so I can replace it and have running as smooth as a baby's bum. Result!

Third up is I got fed up getting wet when it rains because my roof panel leaks like a seive. I put the word out at 5:30pm yesterday that I was looking for a new insert and when I got home at 7pm there was a guy round the corner with one. He said he'd bring it round and just before 8pm it was paid for and in the garage. 2.5 hours start to finish. Result!

Got some plans for the motor. The clutch is slowly getting worse so I'm going to replace it. I guess I ought to get the flywheel refaced so I'll get a buddy to do that for a small sum. I'll get him to shave a bit extra off the thing while he's there and see if I can lose a few pounds, just for shits and giggles of course

 

Well, I finally got my engine all put togeather, but ran into a couple problems. First, The neat finned oil pan and bellhousing I have are Model A. No problem, until I realized that a B tranny case will not bolt up to them. Not a big deal, as I have a B pan and bellhousing (actually sitting in the hot tank as we speak), I just REALLY wanted to run that finned pan.
Second problen is I broke my intaake while installing it. I don't know if I got it a little tight or what, I was being really careful, but when drawing down the bolts, heard a "POP", and it was over. Just cracked a mounting flange, no biggie, but I'll have to wait until Monday to get it fixed. I cannot weld aluminum

Sooooo, looks like it won't be firing up this weekend, but maybe next week. I'll keep everyone informed.
At least it looks cool

 

Aww buddy,

I just did the same damn thing!!! It was on an old converted "A" intake.
I was being careful to make sure I crept up on too tight so that I wouldn't miss the "POP".

Here's a pic of the replacement intake in progress
and the very noisey exhaust I made for it. It's just hangin' there right now.

 

Lucky for me, my buddy Shaun (who is an expert at aluminum welding) was working today. The manifold cracked were it had been fixed before, and Shaun said the old weld was pretty shitty. He fixed it right up for me

I also discovered that my B tranny case will not work with what I have now. I have a cut-down finned B pan and an A bellhousing on the engine now. I also have a stock B pan and bellhousing, but I think I'm just gonna buy the kit and install the V8 tanny as-is. Anyone need a nice, ready to go B case?

 

That is awesome.

I have the same manifold but made by Zephyr. Unfortunately, its going back on the wall as art for now; along with the Winfield head. I have a new setup (but seen by others) that I will be sporting soon. Im very excited.

 

Tell us, tell us!

 

Don't tell us your gonna' hold out till the December Banger Meet.

"We're dyin' here!!!"

Here's a pic of the replacement intake I had to make and the header all bolted up.
I like it. Simple. It's gonna' be pretty load for everyday driving I'm afraid. "I'm afraid"? The damn hippies will be afraid

 

Okay, Okay...

The other day my Dad calls me to tell me that he was having coffee one day and noticed this old fella looking at a hot rod book. He mentions that his son (me ) is big into them, and a huge traditionalist. He goes into detail of my current Model A project and tells him what I told him (from an old racer) "You haven't rode in a Hot Rod until you driven an Hopped up Banger"

My Dad said he grinned and said, "I think I might have something that will make him smile." They swap emails and phone numbers and the old timer tells him he'll send him some pictures to forward to me to see if Im interested.

Remember when I said that you have seen "it" before, ... I get the email and lo-and-behold, its a hardly used 28 chevy Overhead setup (Neal Jern layout) with all the current bells and whistles, upgraded/modern points 32 deuce distributor and a nice set of rebuilt 97's on a home made dual intake. At first I hesitated since I have been working real hard trying to keep my project Pre-war, including the engine parts; But what the hell right? I went for it and now there are (2) setups...that I know of in So. Cal.

I immediately call up my buddy Sawracer, since he's the only resident "expert" on these things. I first apologize for "copying" (since I hate to do so, and like to be "original" in my builds) and then started to pick his brain on the thing for the "do's and don'ts" from what he has experienced.

Needless to say, Im stoked to the highest level. I really feel fortunate for the chance to get this setup. Thanks alot George! (Old guy )

 

Cool! I hope one of you two guys manage to get your chevy-headed bangers to a dyno. I'd love to see some figures.

 

Ok C50F... you get some pics emailed to you and don't post 'em up on here?!?! We're jonesin' man. Come on with it! Too cool!

 

Im trying to get the pictures re-sent to me from my Dad. I cleaned out my emails the other day and unfortunately it got cleaned out as well. Nothing saved. Due to the excitement factor, I didnt even think to do so.