TURKEY CALL!! novembers 4-banger meeting

Yeah, thats looks a lot like my car!!! I like that intake, just saw one on the bay go for over 800.00!!!!! Mine is a burns dual, and I to am running dual 81's. Other than my stock 30 grill and 32 bumbers on mine, our cars will look a lot alike

 

Yeah. I saw a pic of your car and thought they looked a lot a like. I had the Thomas head and was going to run the Zepher intake I've got, but found this Thomas Set Up.... (this one is not the $800 ebay one, but I saw that and it made me feel good about the one I have! )

Keep us updated on your build!

 

You do the same. How are you going to mount your master cylinder for the brakes? Are you running an A or B engine?

 

Nice score, are they the full wheel cover or the ones that just cover the spokes? I'm after a set of Lyons style caps and I can't even find one to make a copy from. Incidentally, do you know who makes the repros?

 

I'm going to use the stock pedals, and build a bracket that changes the throw to the master cylinder, that mounts to the middle cross member. Dick Sparks is in the Dallas Model A club with me, as well as a few other guys who has done it.


Good article about Sparks' set up here on the HAMB...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215063

 

Back to the Wico magneto discussion. I have been curious about the amount of advance in the XV series Wico magnetos. One of my Wico's has a spec# XVD2339. This number designates the amount of lag angle or maybe you could call it the advance. This particular number denotes a lag angle of 9 degrees. I will try to explain how it works. When you install the mag you must turn the shaft until the impulse clicks or snaps. You then install at TDC on #! after you make certain that the rotor is pointing at # 1 in the cap. If done correctly, when you crank through to TDC #1 again the impulse will trigger at exactly TDC. The impulse will be released or "kick" out at 200 to 250 RPMs (some older or larger mags such as German Bosch will kick out at 100 to 140 RPM's) When the impulse releases the mag is now timed to what ever the lag angle is, in the case of the above spec number this would be 9 degrees BTDC. The only way to be certain is to call someone who has the spec sheet or possibly set the impulse at TDC and check amount of advance with a timing light. The lag angle can more or less, I have heard as much as 20 degrees and as little as 3 degrees This is determined by the degrees of lag angle

 

Well I fixed my alternator problem.

Picking up a B engine next week from customs.

I am going to put back the 21" wires as I love them

Sold my Model A coupe on flea bay

Got a Thomas side cover for the B

Also got a four ever four plate for my pickup

Found some more mags

 

A what?

 

Sounds like a license plate that says "Forever Four" on it. That's what I'm guessing!

 

Kinda what I figured but I'm curious to know more.

 

Hey bill I spent about 4 hours going over those pictures I think from looking at them if we had to vote on the smartest or best banger man it would be you. I am almost 70 and done a lot of stuff but I am an apprentice to your work reccommended viewing all the photos for everyone with the banger desire
my 2 cents worth
Ken

 

Wrong Un- These cover the wheel except leave the original Ford hubcap exposed. I'm assuming the original hubcap goes over the inner lip of the cover and helps to hold it in place. Haven't mounted them yet. Maybe tomarrow.

 

I tore down my wierd little banger tonight. I got it late last year. It is a diamond block 32-34, and has a counter balanced crank. It also has what looks like a lightened flywheel. I stripped it tonight to clean and check out, everything looks great inside, so I'll probably button it back up. I will have to find out the cam, as I may want to change it. This thing has an odd finned oil pan (home made) and notice the drivers side of the block has been "covered" to let water go all the way up the side of the block, for cooling I guess. I have no idea what it is out of, maybe a boat. I posted this last year when I got it, and finally got to see whats inside. Hopefully all will be well, and this will be in my coupe in a few weeks

 

I remember that engine, Chris. Be good to see what's in there.

 

Been busy working on the body/metal work on my A. I almost think Im trying to re-invent the wheel here. Got the trunk mounted and inner panel for the lower bumpers. Now everything (alignment)is off. Ugh! Brookville trunk lids are either way off or the body is tweaked and needs shims. The working "roadster" top frame is next on my list.

I want to get the motor in the car soon...hopefully this month. Sending my cast iron winfield head out to have the area where the pistons might hit fly cut. The pistons sit approx. .040 off the deck, im going to cut the same amount out of the head. What do you think?

 

I'm guessing it's the trunk lid. Mine was a mile out, both twisted and mishapen. It took a fair bit of work to get it square, it's still not perfect but it fills the hole!

 

Car runs great and certainly feels more grunty low down with the 81.
But my plans of gravity feeding the 81 for simplicity are scuppered, when I floor the throttle it picks up real well then bangs and dies, I guess yhis is the float bowl emptying and not filling up quick enough just tootling around it runs fine.
Rich

 

Thank you for the compliment. I don't consider myself the smartest guy in this area, there are people out there who have forgotten more than I will ever know. I think that I learn something new every day reading this forum and the posts on the Fordbarn . I realized at one point that some of the written information is hard to visualize so I decided to create these albums. All of this information is out there for free if you know where and take the time to look. Recently there was a post on Fordbarn with photos of an 8 port flathead "A" engine. Now that takes some doing.
Going to El Mirage this weekend, its only 20 miles from where I live.

 

Aluminum heat dispenser plate bolts to the water outlet on the block.

 

Norm, Do the clay test with a head gasket maybe it won't hit at all. If that is not an option try double head gaskets and clay and see if it clears, (measure clay afterwards) I would want to shave the least possible from the head if it was mine.

 

William,

I have searched the Model A discussion forum on Fordbarn but didn't find anything that talked about an 8 port flathead. Could you let me know what the title of the thread was or the date? I tried using the search function - 8 port, but the search just stalls out.

Thanks,

Mike

 

I would measure first and then see if you can find a gasket that will give you ,030 or maybe a little more. I have read post's of gaskets that compress .090 which if true would give you as much as .050 clearance. As i have posted before J&E pistons require .040, Jay Steele told me a SBC piston can grow .035. but I doubt you will be running that hard. My Winfield flat head has no flycut and deck is -.032. over bore gasket from Taylor Engine compresses to .060 which gave me .028 so I cut .012 from the top of the pistons to get the desired clearance. A lot cheaper than flycutting the head for me anyway. I have a 4 port and the pistons have had .090 machined from the top to lower the compression. Not by me.

 

Right I'm back. I disappeared for the last couple days to try and get this thing together.

I read and re-read all the comments and suggestions regarding what the problem was and how to fix it. Well, basically I didn't agree with any of it and carried on regardless.

The engine is now thankfully oil tight!
It had sprung a leak from the back of the cam. When the bellhousing was removed a clear route could be seen where the oil had made a path for itself to the outside world.

I feel I need to give some replies to Brent post....

I'm not TRYING to use race parts, I AM using race parts. The engine has been put to together as a race spec engine, plain and simple.

I've had the Dan Price pump in this engine for 6 years now and it has ALWAYS ran 60 lbs of oil pressure with no ill effects, ever.
I admit that it is complete overkill for the original spec engine that was dead on its knees at 3 grand. As the spec of the engine has increased I've always known that the oil system would be up to the job and that was the reason for having it.

It was the cam leaking as I knew it was. If it was oil coming up the main bolts it would leak out through the split pin hole in the bellhousing just like the rear main does, not down the outside of the bellhousing which was what I commented was happening.

I have never heard or seen of a restricter being used on the mains, cam yes, mains no. If someone had a blockage on one of their main feeds, a restricter of sorts, they would most probably end up with a spun bearing through oil starvation.
How can the drain not be able to cope with what the main feed brings to it? The drain is larger in diameter to the feed tube, so the drain can flow more than the feed. Also the feed is to the centre of the rear main cap. I would hazard a guess that half, 50%, of the oil that is feed to the main returns straight back into the sump where the other half exits to the rear of the cap and is dealt with by the drain in the cap. Because of this even less oil volume would be dealt with by drain tube.

What about when their wrong?

WHO says a rope seal can only handle 40 lbs of oil pressure? Wheres the evidence for that?

Secondly in my set-up the rope isn't under pressure and shouldn't be under pressure. The ropes job is to seal from what is splashing around inside the rear main cap that has left the crank journal and is now not under pressure any more.

 

I'm just glad you found the problem. As to high pressure, when I put the Winfield flat head together the pump put out 80 lb., when I pulled it down to check the pressure relief spring I found the cam had moved against the stop spring enough for the lobes to chew into my REM AL. rods. Thus my concern in regards to high pressure. I lowered pressure to 40 lb. and installed a solid bronze cam stop. By the way, I had installed a Burtz seal and it held.

 

Mike, scroll down to nmeed more power
George Miller
1:13AM 11 04 07

 

Bill, out of interest how did you set-up the cam stop?

 

This will give you the general Idea The groove or relief lines up with the hole in the casting which catches transient oil. I did use oil impregnated bronze. A fellow in no ca, Norm Vermiel, makes a conversion using a small roller or needle thrust bearing. The usual practice is to drill and tap for a 3/8' or 1/2" bolt and tip it with braze. Another method is to drill and tap for a bolt and just run it against the regular cam stop. The hole in the casting where the cam stop fits is 11/16" which is the tap size for 3/4 -16 and I had some 3/4" oillite bronze bar ends so I originally leveled the cover with the engine side up and clamped it on the mill and drilled with a 11/16" drill bit. I now have a fixture for this. I make the thread a tight fit and haven't seen a leak yet

 

Sorry, I know what the stop is as I have one!

I was curious to know how you go about setting yours up in regards to tolerences and everything.

 

If you crank it in too far it will leak at the rear again!!!!!!

And PST will keep it from leaking round the threads

 

If you look at my stop you will see that it is milled hexagon so each flat is .010 (I realize that you can do the math but I feel the need to explain to those who do not) linear travel on the stop . I give it 1/2 flat or approx. .005
I see where my mistake was in my previous post when you said settup I didn't realize you meant adjust, sorry for being so dense, senior moment I guess.