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Turbo charged Flathead???

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 52ragtop, Jan 13, 2013.

  1. custommachinesIII
    Joined: Jan 28, 2013
    Posts: 13

    custommachinesIII
    Member
    from Belgium

    @beef stew,
    Thanks sharing your thougths about it. i'll go with the original setup then. but shall i raise compression to 7,5-8:1 or stick with the 6,5:1?

    i also wonder if you charge your 94 or 97 from the top, if the valves are closed, where does the pressure go? or even when there open, and everything is full, where does the pressure go?:confused:

    nice cars! should a flattyv8 run well on lpg?

    maybe its easier to turbocharge a six because the exhaustflow is better, and the crank gets more even load because the angle of the pistons/rods?
     
  2. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,000

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    Turbostude ... awesome car... but how did you make the head?
     
  3. NickJT
    Joined: Jul 17, 2012
    Posts: 640

    NickJT
    Member
    from S.E. PA

    Turbo motors love cold air! Maybe all motors do.


    In many cases, this is dealt with by using a bypass valve (aka blow off valve).
     
  4. Hotrod54
    Joined: Mar 14, 2010
    Posts: 4

    Hotrod54
    Member
    from St Louis


    ^ This ^
     
  5. turbostude
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 342

    turbostude
    Member
    from minnesota

    With the high boost will come head problems and blown head gaskets. I talked to some flathead guys on the salt running Hudsons and they had tried making girdles and long studs to clamp the heads down with some improvement. I decided to design my own. I also spoke with the guys at uncommon engineering in Indy and the late Dick Landy. First study combustion chambers for flattys and decide what appeals to you . I had 9 different Stude heads. I put clay in the one closest to what I liked to modify the shape. I made a plaster mold of that. I took it to a machinist who carefully measured it, as well as the spacing of cylinders, valves etc. in an original head. Then, it was roughly machined into a 1/2 inch thick slab. Then, EDM was used to ease the transitions. Then, 21 spools were machined, each with a ferrule to locate it in the slab, centered over the hole where an ARP stud would go thru. These were furnace brazed into place. Then, a top plate was drilled to sit on the perimeters of the spools, off the "squeezing" surfaces The spools were one inch, so the holes sat on edge grooves on the spools, the holes being about 13/16". So the top piece would bear no loads. Then a piece of strap was fashioned around the sides to close it all off. So the top and side plates were there only to containg the coolant. I made the space large enough to hold 3 times the amount of coolant and put 3 outlets in it, front middle and back to draw the coolant evenly out of the head. Plugs had their own tubes frenched down to the base plate. Everything furnace brazed together. NO more head problems

    http://salt2salt.com/Dyno_05_06/Dyno_05_06.html

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Rusty O'Toole
    Joined: Sep 17, 2006
    Posts: 9,000

    Rusty O'Toole
    Member

    When you say furnace brazed I take it the head is made of steel?
     
  7. FYI..The currend RECORD HOLDER at Bonneville in the Blown, Fuel Flathead Lakester class has s Turbocharged Ford Flathead in it. Eric Hanson at 229.670 MOH!

    He also holds the record in Flathead Blown Gas Lakesster at 214.371 with a Turbocharger!
     
  8. turbostude
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 342

    turbostude
    Member
    from minnesota

    Yup. Steel. Aluminum and flatheads and high boost I think, is asking for leaks. Maybe I'm wrong. I wanted something that would expand closer to what the block was doing.
     
  9. custommachinesIII
    Joined: Jan 28, 2013
    Posts: 13

    custommachinesIII
    Member
    from Belgium

    thats an idea!! i am thinking of that to! to cast two piece heads, or why not, mill them in solid material. something to consider... do you have any pictures of your dissasembled head? nice!!
    that is a very timeconsuming process, thumbs up for achieving your goal!
     
  10. custommachinesIII
    Joined: Jan 28, 2013
    Posts: 13

    custommachinesIII
    Member
    from Belgium

    thats an idea!! i am thinking of that to! to cast two piece heads, or why not, mill them in solid material. something to consider... do you have any pictures of your dissasembled head? nice!!
    that is a very timeconsuming process, thumbs up for achieving your goal!:)
     
  11. turbostude
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 342

    turbostude
    Member
    from minnesota

    I will dig around for pics. I do have them somewhere....
     
  12. rocksolidnate
    Joined: Feb 4, 2013
    Posts: 121

    rocksolidnate
    Member
    from Viroqua Wi

    the correct turbo would have minimal lag
    exhaust heat in water jackets could be an issue for your cooling system
    flathead fords have very thin decks
    things to combat the egt,s ceramic coat the inside exhaust ports
    small water meth injection setup
    custom ground camshaft
    run a rich afr with good ignition
    run minimal boost 5-7 psi
    remember your going for cool factor not 500hp

    just my .02cents
     
  13. turbostude
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 342

    turbostude
    Member
    from minnesota

    If you check out the picture showing the homemade head, you might also notice the reverse flow cooling I did. That will help a little with detonation too. Water/Methanol injection can be done pretty easily with a windshield washer pump and a Hobbs switch. You could also wire a fuel injector to a Hobbs switch that would squirt into the intake under the carb at a given boost level.
     
  14. Marvinlee
    Joined: Mar 12, 2006
    Posts: 3

    Marvinlee
    Member

    This is not an answer to your question, but a more general comment. My dream turbocharged flathead would be the 1938-1940 Cadillac V16. For a flathead, it had nearly everything going for it in terms of potential power. The 431 cubic inch displacement promised both torque and horsepower. As the last luxury car engine design before WWII, it had the latest engineering: Oil filter, efficient port design, hydraulic valve lash control, two inserted water cooling tubes to cool the valve seats, perfect balance for a V16 at 135 degrees, light weight (lighter than the aluminum-block Cadillac V12, which it replace), a main bearing between each set of two cylinders, strong monoblock design with parent-bore cylinders, an exhaust port for each cylinder, an extended cylinder block for greater rigidity, short, strong, connecting rods, etc. Despite being a V16, it was shorter than a predecessor V12 engine. Really, a wonderful engine unlike anything else built before or after the war.

    If one coupled that engine with modern turbochargers, at least five hundred civilized horsepower should be available, and much more with extensive modifications and possibly some loss of idling smoothness and very low end power.

    Roller tappets, revised camshaft parameters, etc. are all doable. One could even devise direct fuel injection for the cylinder heads. There is plenty of room for creativity and modern parts such as pistons, bearings, etc. Where else can you find a stock flathead engine with greater personality and character?





     
  15. bobadame
    Joined: Jan 20, 2009
    Posts: 174

    bobadame
    Member

    [​IMG]This one belongs to Paul Monds. He built the entire body out of aluminum sheet by the way. Pretty smart feller and a good guy.
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2014
  16. Keith Tedford
    Joined: Jun 16, 2007
    Posts: 3

    Keith Tedford
    Member

    Perhaps this is what you need. :)
     

    Attached Files:

  17. Fortunateson
    Joined: Apr 30, 2012
    Posts: 2,806

    Fortunateson
    Member

    There's a guy up here in the Vancouver area mounting twin turbos. He's an experienced heavy duty mechanic and knows what he doing. I'll try to visit him and get more info.
     
  18. willkietz
    Joined: Jun 6, 2018
    Posts: 1

    willkietz


    Hey I know this is an old post but I am looking at doing this to my '50 F2. What all did you have to do to the block? Mine has about 100 miles on it and it is an original 8BA block.
     

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