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"Tunneling"/"channeling" rear coils

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bonez, Nov 25, 2009.

  1. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    I've used the search function in the last few days but couldnt find shit!
    What im lookin for is the following:
    At the moment im in the process of lowering my car (coil springs all 4 corners)
    in the rear by cuttin the coil seat on the floor side (upper)
    and moving the top mounting point 4 inches higher, so that i'll get a 4 inch drop.
    w/out the cons of cuttin the coils.(almost, i also cut 1 an 1/2.....:))
    Its like channeling, but only the suspension get the treatment.
    The only reference i have is in Car Craft april '54 issue, "Dont spoil that coil",
    which shows you ruffly how to do that (intended for olds and Buicks of the era)
    other than that i cant seem to find crap on the subject. I know is not a big deal, but?
    Has anyone on here done it? Pics of a job "well" done?
    In case someones intrested i'll post a tech once im done.
    I'll be waitin, thanx everybody, Nick.
     
  2. my rivera they took the spring that was on the bottom link, like a 63 chev and chanelledit by putting a big bucket in the arm so the spring sits slightly lower that the bottom of the link

    ask for a photo as I will be getting rear jacked up, if desired
     
  3. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Here is the original Car Craft article that i mentioned in the 1st post. Excuse me for the PDF. format but thats all i could do 2day.
    If i manage to, i'll scan it again in jpg in the next few days.

    Right then, other that Eugene has anybody else done this????

    The way im doin it is the following:
    Got a 10"x40" stainless steel plate 5mm thick,i will cut n weld it till i have a "half box" similar to the one in the article,
    but instead of weldin it to the floor i will have to bolt it on, as the car is a unibody w/ a 1mm "thick" floor in mild steel,
    that doesnt match the stainless and i cant weld'em togherter, at least w/ my equipment, which is a arc welder w/ some 316 sticks.
    The above doesnt really bother me as i've figured out a way to make it as tuff as it was all 1 piece,
    I have bad ass M12 8.8 nuts and bolts w/ incorporated washers to each side, and a 3mm thick rubber matt
    to sandwich on the mounting points between the stainless box and the floor to further absorb the force transfered from the coils.
    There will be 3 main mountin points, w/ a total of 10 bolts for each side of the car (for each coil), and some bracing will also
    find a permanent spot to stiffen the set up and avoid warpage due to the coils transfering all the force to the mounting holes...

    This thread is now worthless w/out pics :D:mad:,so i'll update it tamorrow w/ some.
    Meanwhile it wouldnt hurt if somebody will show me their effort or would tell me where or if my reasoning is missing a piece.
    Construtive criticism is very welcome, but i'd really like to hear from people that drove w/ this kinda set up and have info to share.
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  4. Al Napier
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 401

    Al Napier
    Member
    from Central CT

    Perhaps you can whip up something similar to some oval track coil spring buckets and install them in your car at the height you need?

    Here is an example for study ==> http://www.stockcarproducts.com/susp28.htm

    I've made my own custom sized ones out of large diameter tubing several times and it works great.

    Hope this helps.

    Al in CT
     
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  5. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    Yeah Al, that was my first thought, but after many considerations i think that the floor is too thin
    at 1 mm thickness to be welded savagley to put those in place. just so you know, when i tried weldin
    a bolt for the seat belts, the electrode went straight trough the floor just after touchin it!:eek:
    Its a unibody mid size euro-ford, not a thick ass american Mo.Fo :D, infact if i wasnt so damn sure
    about the outcome of the whole car i'd say is too much hassle to start w/ in the 1st place!
    A lot of tinkin and fabrication needed, and no aftermarket at all, w/ all the thought i put into it i could build a hot rod! :D

    Buildin a bridge will solve every problem but at that point i'll go air ride, which i will eventually.
     
  6. Al Napier
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 401

    Al Napier
    Member
    from Central CT

    Maybe you could build a cross member of sorts across the back (side to side) to anchor the tops of the springs then, and just use sheet metal to fill in the non-structural gaps then?

    Al in CT
     
  7. bonez
    Joined: Jul 16, 2007
    Posts: 3,493

    bonez
    Member
    from Slow lane

    I'll see to have pictures posted as soon as i found the cable to connect to the pc, until then this will not make much sense im sure.
    Anyway, the whole thing will act like a rear bridge, it will have lenghts of 1"x1" welded to the rear xmember
    and those 5mm plates i was talkin about earlier sandwiched between the OEM floor.
    It will be tuff alright.
    I tried to figure out many possible solutions to this and the one im after seems good,
    still, im hopeing someone that has done it will chime in!
     

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