Technical Tunnel Port 427...how streetable are they?

Man that is KILLER.

 

Takes a real man to do that to a car like that. You are a man's man. Hater's will hate ,screw em . It looks awesome.

 

Now that is cool!

 

Old thread I know but I'm running a 427, tunnel port heads/intake, dual 600's, and a toploader in a 1964 Fairlane on the street.

I ain't going to tell a guy what to do but if you're looking for fun, it's a damn good way to find it.

 

A 58 Ford steering box is a huge improvement on your 55. I had a 427/425 57 Ford back in 65. The factory cast iron 63 headers will work the passenger side and if you want it bad enough on the drivers side. You have to mill the exhaust side of the cast iron header and the exhaust side of the head plus grind the hell out of the steering box, plus grind a hole in the cast iron header and braze a cup type freeze plug in upside down. They said it couldn't be done but I did it. This was all with the 58 steering box too. I also had a set of Ballenger Bros 180 degree headers {2 pipes from each side go into the opposite header} on it later but cant recall what they were for. They were a giant PIA to put on

 

Man, that Ford is way beyond cool! Awesome! Hope we get an update.




Bones

 

Updates?

 

Sounds like "your-in-bid ness"!!!
6sally6

 

I have a Aluminum SBC 427 with a wide ratio t 10 it loves it gobs of torque, 3.19 rear,build it .

 

So what? It is not what we are talking about here. We are discussing the Ford FE technology not shivrolaa, and if it is aluminum it is not factory.

 

Gotta find a builder that shares your vision. I've found high end builders get to a point where anything factory or used is out of the question. It's easier for them to use all new components on your dime. For an all out engine, sure. Consider, If you're paying the tab to build their reputation.

Best of luck with the build, it's been an interesting discussion. Keep it going whatever the outcome.

 

It looks like the journal lightening holes on the cracked crank are quite a bit larger than FORD used to do it, and the contours of the crank throw has been fussed with a bit and left sharp, too. I wonder how long ago it was magnafluxed. That crack was tiny several thousand cycles ago.
Like others said, the quality of the grind can cause a good crank to die young. Good radiuses/fillets but full of grinding/heat "checks" ( CRACKS!) can really get the party started.

http://www.douglasmotorcycles.net/aa-files/images/doug/articles/crank_tour/cracks.jpg