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Projects Tudorfritz slowly builds a Model A (build thread)

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by tudorfritz, Dec 20, 2009.

  1. I bought this off ebay about two years ago. I have been working on it for about a year and a half. First I sold every thing I was not going to use (motor/trany, fenders, hood) got about half my money back. I chopped the car 5" channeled it 4" it's got a 1950 ford flathead ,manual trans. 9" rear. It will be painted Washington blue (shiny) with a black top.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Aug 31, 2013
    kiwijeff likes this.
  2. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    Looks like a great start.
    You'll like that Dagels X member, I put it in my A also.
     
  3. I boxed the rails and added a x member and a lowered front cross member. The front frame horns were bobbed for axle clearance. The rear rails were built out of 2"x3" with a 14" kick up.
     

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  4. I made my own front shackle mounts they are welded to the split bones . This let me move the axle forward about 6". The front shock mounts were made out of 1" round tube 3/16 wall . I rolled them to give them some style and they will serve as the headlight mounts.
     

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  5. pecker head
    Joined: Nov 8, 2006
    Posts: 4,249

    pecker head
    Member

    Suite ! I dig it !
     
  6. Frame mounts for the motor were built out of 4" square tube. The Dagles x member had to be tweaked to rase the motor and trany. for ground clearance.
     

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  7. The headers are built out of 1 5/8" j bends all tig welded together. They will have motorcycle baffles in them. I'm going to have them jet hot coated.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jan 2, 2011
    kiwijeff likes this.
  8. Woob
    Joined: May 11, 2004
    Posts: 353

    Woob
    Member
    from Falcon, CO

    Very nice work, Fritz.

    Clean design elements and obviously well thought out.

    **Edit** I obviously posted before you were done.
    I'll just sit back and enjoy the rest. :)
     
  9. . I built a cage to mount the box, the pedals will also mount to this. The pitman arm was machined from a solid bar and a 1/2" plate cut on a water jet and tig welded together. I found the 1940 Ford dash in the classifieds cut it down and reshaped the top.
     

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    Last edited: Aug 31, 2013
  10. pan-dragger
    Joined: Sep 13, 2006
    Posts: 3,186

    pan-dragger
    Member

  11. The spacer on the tie rod was a solid bar that I drilled on my lathe and they are welded to the steering arm. There was no clearance for the drag link under the spring. I really don't like the way they look and I will try to figure some thing else out.
     
  12. 41fastback
    Joined: Sep 25, 2005
    Posts: 360

    41fastback
    Member

    Nice work. Can you post more pics of your pitman arm, and the installed cage? Is the cage fastened to the frame or subframe? I happen to be working up a design for my A steering and looking for ideas. Thanks.
     
  13. The cage will bolt to the frame . I am going to put two more brackets on the top so it will also bolt to the A pilers so it will be rock solid .
     

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  14. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Looks great Fritz, we are traveling down the same road. What radiator did you use? I've gotta change radiators to make everything work like I planned.

    Kevin
    Ooltewah Speed Shop
     
  15. ironandsteele
    Joined: Apr 25, 2006
    Posts: 5,921

    ironandsteele
    Member

    looks most excellent so far. keep up the great work!
     
  16. Performance Rod & Custom Inc. built the radiator for me. They can build any size or shape you want and it only took a week or two. They made it fit the 1930 rad. shell and 4" shorter with flathead water outlets.
     
  17. Mat Thrasher
    Joined: Nov 5, 2007
    Posts: 1,168

    Mat Thrasher
    Member

    Wow very nice work. I like your headlight/shock mount. I'm thinking of doing something similar on my 34 pick up.
     
  18. Nice fab work, thanks for posting!
     
  19. HotRod33
    Joined: Oct 5, 2008
    Posts: 2,570

    HotRod33
    Member

    Wow great looking car a some nice work...........
     
  20. Thanks guys, I will try to take some more pictures tonight.
     
  21. I SMELL SMOKE
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 1,527

    I SMELL SMOKE
    Member

    lots of nice work you've done there!!!
     
  22. 29Jay
    Joined: Aug 9, 2007
    Posts: 1,101

    29Jay
    Member
    from Ft Worth

    Real nice !
     
  23. I finished up most of the sub rails, I used 1/2"x 1" tube. I also made the inner rocker panels and got the back half of the frame welded up.
     

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    spiffy1937 likes this.
  24. I cleaned up the rear wheel well area where the axle slot is. I boxed the outer panel to the inner rocker and used the cut off piece as a bolt in filler panel. It just finishes it off rather than having a long slot in the wheel well.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 13, 2016
    D-Russ likes this.
  25. A-BOMB #1
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 19

    A-BOMB #1
    Member

    Nice build! I really like the filler below the rear axle. Did you weld your dash in or is it bolted in?
     
  26. Glen
    Joined: Mar 21, 2001
    Posts: 1,789

    Glen
    Member

    nice work.....keep the pics coming.
     
  27. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,945

    the-rodster
    Member

    Very nice work, indeed.

    Gunna be a killer ride.

    You gotta do something different with that steering/front axle setup.

    Normally, when you attach the spring to the bones, you don't need a dropped axle, and the associated tie rod clearance problems.

    Rich
     
  28. The dash bolts in with 10-32 button head bolts hidden behind the dash.
     
  29. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Killer Build
    Your subrails look awesome.
     
  30. dirtbag13
    Joined: Jun 16, 2008
    Posts: 2,540

    dirtbag13
    Member

    nice build ! looking good
     

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